Two 19x11 Square Setup Installs

[AlbertD]

I run a squared set of 19x11 SVE 350s for track and a squared set of 19x11 SVE GT7s for street with a 20mm spacer up front with FRPP dampers. If I were to start over I would have probably gone 25mm spacers just for the extra peace of mind, but... the 20mm have been working just fine for me. No rubbing on the street or on track and I see some decent cornering forces (> 1.2g) with the NT01s.

Sponsored

 

[BmacIL]

I run a squared set of 19x11 SVE 350s for track and a squared set of 19x11 SVE GT7s for street with a 20mm spacer up front with FRPP dampers. If I were to start over I would have probably gone 25mm spacers just for the extra peace of mind, but... the 20mm have been working just fine for me. No rubbing on the street or on track and I see some decent cornering forces (> 1.2g) with the NT01s.

Great to know.

 

[Bluemustang]

I run a squared set of 19x11 SVE 350s for track and a squared set of 19x11 SVE GT7s for street with a 20mm spacer up front with FRPP dampers. If I were to start over I would have probably gone 25mm spacers just for the extra peace of mind, but... the 20mm have been working just fine for me. No rubbing on the street or on track and I see some decent cornering forces (> 1.2g) with the NT01s.

What are the offsets on that setup, +52?

 

[TicTocTach]

What are the offsets on that setup, +52?

The R350’s and the GT-7’s are both +50mm in the 11” width. The GT-7’s are discontinued now, though.

 

[strengthrehab]

The R350’s and the GT-7’s are both +50mm in the 11” width. The GT-7’s are discontinued now, though.

Unless you want bronze. I recently bought a new set of bronze GT7's and will have them mounted with 305 RE71's saturday.

I have 25mm spacers I'm going to use on the GT7's because I need them with Pedders coilovers and Apex EC-7 (+52 offset) 18x11's.

 

[TicTocTach]

I would be interested to see what that looks like.

So, I tried to check this and ran into a snag - the 10" SVT GT-7's have a very different mounting face than the 11's. The difference in the pockets between the lugs is enough that I couldn't mount the 11" wheel to the hub. The stock lugs were longer than the 1" spacer plus the much smaller gap between the lug holes:

19x11_Fit_Check by clair_davis, on Flickr

This resulted in a fat 1/8" or ~3mm-ish gap:

19x11_Fit_Check by clair_davis, on Flickr

I went ahead and rotated the wheel on the hub to get the gap to settle down, and took a couple measurements anyway. Looks like an easy 1/2" clear between the wheel edge and the strut body with a 25.4" spacer in place:

19x11_Fit_Check by clair_davis, on Flickr

Plenty of space to slip your fingers between the strut and wheel, probably if you removed the 1/8" gap as well:

19x11_Fit_Check by clair_davis, on Flickr

With all that said, I wouldn't buy anything on these results with a ton of error-stacking potential going on. Unfortunately I'm going to have to commit to a long stud conversion or bearing swap before I can get any really solid numbers. Bearings are turning out to be more of a snipe hunt than I would have thought, but I'll start another thread for that.

 

[strengthrehab]

So, I tried to check this and ran into a snag - the 10" SVT GT-7's have a very different mounting face than the 11's. The difference in the pockets between the lugs is enough that I couldn't mount the 11" wheel to the hub. The stock lugs were longer than the 1" spacer plus the much smaller gap between the lug holes:

19x11_Fit_Check by clair_davis, on Flickr

This resulted in a fat 1/8" or ~3mm-ish gap:

19x11_Fit_Check by clair_davis, on Flickr

I went ahead and rotated the wheel on the hub to get the gap to settle down, and took a couple measurements anyway. Looks like an easy 1/2" clear between the wheel edge and the strut body with a 25.4" spacer in place:

19x11_Fit_Check by clair_davis, on Flickr

Plenty of space to slip your fingers between the strut and wheel, probably if you removed the 1/8" gap as well:

19x11_Fit_Check by clair_davis, on Flickr

With all that said, I wouldn't buy anything on these results with a ton of error-stacking potential going on. Unfortunately I'm going to have to commit to a long stud conversion or bearing swap before I can get any really solid numbers. Bearings are turning out to be more of a snipe hunt than I would have thought, but I'll start another thread for that.

I'm thoroughly confused by thus post

Are you saying that the 19x11 GT7 wheels dont fit? Were your trying to mount them without a spacer?

 

[Norm Peterson]

So, I tried to check this and ran into a snag - the 10" SVT GT-7's have a very different mounting face than the 11's. The difference in the pockets between the lugs is enough that I couldn't mount the 11" wheel to the hub. The stock lugs were longer than the 1" spacer plus the much smaller gap between the lug holes:

19x11_Fit_Check by clair_davis, on Flickr

I'm afraid I'm not following this very well either. For starters, can you circle up what you mean by "pockets between the lugs" and explain a little about how they might be keeping the wheel from going that last eighth of an inch?

Or is it the center hole in the wheel not machined correctly and the wheel hanging up on the hub's center?

This resulted in a fat 1/8" or ~3mm-ish gap:

19x11_Fit_Check by clair_davis, on Flickr

I went ahead and rotated the wheel on the hub to get the gap to settle down, and took a couple measurements anyway. Looks like an easy 1/2" clear between the wheel edge and the strut body with a 25.4" spacer in place:

19x11_Fit_Check by clair_davis, on Flickr.

This picture is with a spacer or without one???

With 11" wide or wider wheels you want the thinnest spacer that works (i.e. no strut-side rubbing).


Norm

 

[TicTocTach]

Sorry, guys, my work schedule these days doesn't let me complete even simple garage tasks on a timely basis. I had asked earlier if a 20mm spacer could work, or if 25mm / 1" was mandatory for 19x11 square...

I'm thoroughly confused by thus post

Are you saying that the 19x11 GT7 wheels dont fit? Were your trying to mount them without a spacer?

The 11" GT-7's are cast & machined differently on the hub face than the 10" wheels, so I couldn't bolt them up properly with the 1" spacer/adapter I used. The spacer is one from my parts bin and has a 4.5" bolt circle, but has lugs pressed in and uses lug nuts to attach to the axle flange. When the adapter is bolted to the axle lugs, the axle lugs extend past the face of the adapter interfering with the wheel, so the wheel can't bolt down properly.

I'm afraid I'm not following this very well either. For starters, can you circle up what you mean by "pockets between the lugs" and explain a little about how they might be keeping the wheel from going that last eighth of an inch?

Or is it the center hole in the wheel not machined correctly and the wheel hanging up on the hub's center?

This picture is with a spacer or without one???

With 11" wide or wider wheels you want the thinnest spacer that works (i.e. no strut-side rubbing).

Norm

Pic of the area that is different. Had the 11" wheels been deeper between the lug holes like the 10" wheels, I wouldn't have had to explain how the test didn't work perfectly and to not spend money on what I was reporting.

19x11_Fit_Check by clair_davis, on Flickr

All measuring pics are with spacer - and gap - in place.

It looks to me like a 20mm spacer will probably work with maybe 5-7mm clear to the strut, but for me to actually bolt these wheels up and verify, I have to have the long studs installed.

 

[Norm Peterson]

The 11" GT-7's are cast & machined differently on the hub face than the 10" wheels, so I couldn't bolt them up properly with the 1" spacer/adapter I used. The spacer is one from my parts bin and has a 4.5" bolt circle, but has lugs pressed in and uses lug nuts to attach to the axle flange. When the adapter is bolted to the axle lugs, the axle lugs extend past the face of the adapter interfering with the wheel, so the wheel can't bolt down properly.

Pic of the area that is different. Had the 11" wheels been deeper between the lug holes like the 10" wheels, I wouldn't have had to explain how the test didn't work perfectly and to not spend money on what I was reporting.

19x11_Fit_Check by clair_davis, on Flickr

Now I get it.

FWIW, those adapter-style spacers make me uneasy since you can't check the torque on the spacer's own lug nuts without removing the wheel, and then you get to retorque and later recheck those.

All measuring pics are with spacer - and gap - in place.

It looks to me like a 20mm spacer will probably work with maybe 5-7mm clear to the strut, but for me to actually bolt these wheels up and verify, I have to have the long studs installed.

I'm seeing about 17mm clearance, so minus the 3mm gap gives 14mm. 5mm less spacer makes that 9mm, subject to tolerance/measuring accuracy. Should easily be OK for 305/30's, might be a bit tight for 315/30's.


Norm

 

[341hcmonster]

We are using 19x11s all around with 315 Hoosier A7s
Forgestar F14s from american muscle
Fronts are the 7" back spacing and rears are the 8.2" back spacing
Also using a 15mm spacer all around and the 3" ARP studs
Ground Control shocks/struts with approx 3/16" between tire and strut and I can't remember what the clearance is in the rear but it's over 1/4"
Since the Hoosiers run really large, you can see how far they stick out.

 

[TicTocTach]

Now I get it.

FWIW, those adapter-style spacers make me uneasy since you can't check the torque on the spacer's own lug nuts without removing the wheel, and then you get to retorque and later recheck those.



I'm seeing about 17mm clearance, so minus the 3mm gap gives 14mm. 5mm less spacer makes that 9mm, subject to tolerance/measuring accuracy. Should easily be OK for 305/30's, might be a bit tight for 315/30's.


Norm

Yeah, I'm not going to use those adapters, I just happened to have them in the bin from a project I had ~15 years ago... fitting '94 Cobra wheels on the rear of my '69 Valiant. Even then, they were just to bolt pieces together and drive around the block to see if anything was rubbing. A wider axle solved the fitment problem there, but the adapters are still useful to check fitment - if there's space under the wheel... I'll use true spacers over the long studs when I'm done.

I agree on the clearance looking pretty good, but I'm being pretty conservative on any numbers until I can bolt things down properly and measure again. Fingers crossed that the clearance stays around 9mm, but I think I could live with as little as 5-6mm from the strut body.

 

[strengthrehab]

With factory struts and some coilovers, 20mm with a +50 offset wheel should be ok.

I could probably do a 20mm with +50 wheels and my Pedders coilovers, but with +52 18x11's I need the 25mm spacer.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Actual tire section width and flexibility will probably end up driving the choice. Max-width wheels (11" wide for 285/35) seem to be able to work with very little strut clearance (like under 2mm in some cases). Wider tires on those same 11" wides where the sidewalls have greater flexibility to distort laterally under hard cornering, the safe choice would be not that close.


Norm

 

[Bluemustang]

Has anyone done a 19X11 305 square setup with +24 and +50 offsets front and rear, respectively?

Sponsored