Clutch Won’t Disengage

[ManBearPig]

2016 GTPP 26k miles. Basic bolt-on car.


The car will currently not go into any gear and the clutch will not disengage hardly at all. Pedal currently feels normal and with the engine off, shifter "feels" normal going into all gears.


This happened driving home last night. I was going for a WOT 2-3 shift and it wouldn’t go into 3rd. I've read about people being "locked out" of 3rd with high RPM shifting but I have never experienced it. At first I thought that's what happened, but then realized I couldn’t get it into any gear. I also then realized the pedal was stuck about halfway down. I was able to pull the pedal back up and it stayed there and now "feels" normal, but doesn’t do much of anything. I managed to make it home last night only shifting a few times without the clutch. I was lucky I never had to stop, because there's no way I could've taken off again.


For additional context, something similar happened about 2 years ago when the car had 5k miles. Last time, I pulled the pedal back up and it worked fine. I still took it in and convinced Ford to replace the master cylinder even though it was not exhibiting any symptoms at the time.


My first thought would be there is something up with the hydraulics. Either a bad master or slave, or air somehow got into the system.


On the other hand, maybe something exploded in there. I was not given any warning, but I was driving like an asshole right before this happened. I usually don’t beat on the car but I made a couple WOT pulls through gears 2-4 last night. The air was nice and cool and the car was running really well so I had a bit of fun. That may or may not be coincidental.


If I could get to the slave cylinder I'd try to bleed the system, but I know sometimes that doesn’t work very well anyway. I'm not familiar with how to do it by pulling a vacuum, but I'm guessing that's what will need to be done. I also am unsure how that would work with the shared reservoir between the clutch and brakes.


My thinking is that I should probably try to bleed the system first then go from there before pulling the trans.


Thoughts?

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[ManBearPig]

Side question, if I have to pull the trans and replace the clutch, can that be done without removing my longtubes? I’m hoping those will not get in the way.

 

[Cobra Jet]

The LT’s should not present a problem. When looking under a car with LT’s, they normally hug the floor pan/trans tunnel and then branch off to being on the outside of the trans, allowing room to work. You will need to remove the mid-pipe regardless of which exhaust setup is on the car.

I have had LT’s on my Cobra for 15yrs now, and I’ve had to drop the trans a couple of times, they’re there but able to work around them.

As for the issue - have you checked to make sure the hydraulic line is still attached to the clutch master? Any fluid leaks seen under the car?

See here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/urgent-check-clutch-line-at-brake-master-cylinder.84132/


When parked, using the shifter and rowing through the gears - do they all feel the same or can you tell if there’s a difference as if something is broken?

Do you still have the stock clutch spring in place or aftermarket? The stock spring has been known to be a failure point. Some people remove it completely and this was a problematic area on prior Mustangs too (same issue with pedal dropping or sticking).

It could be blown out clutch (pressure plate failure), but if you didn’t hear any noises (bangs, grinding, harsh engagement) I would definitely check the hydraulic line and the clutch spring first.

 

[ManBearPig]

The line to the master cylinder is still hooked up, although I can wiggle it around and get my fingers slightly wet with fluid. I recall this from last time as well. Just doesn’t seem to be a very good fitting there. I’m thinking (hoping) it sucked air in right there and that’s all there is. The reservoir is full and no leaks under the car or around the trans.

All gears feel the same with the engine off. I have the steeda assist spring on the pedal.

 

[Cobra Jet]

The line to the master cylinder is still hooked up, although I can wiggle it around and get my fingers slightly wet with fluid. I recall this from last time as well. Just doesn’t seem to be a very good fitting there. I’m thinking (hoping) it sucked air in right there and that’s all there is. The reservoir is full and no leaks under the car or around the trans.

All gears feel the same with the engine off. I have the steeda assist spring on the pedal.

Ok.

So with your observation of the hydraulic line - check that thread I posted, do as others recommend and then after, bleed the clutch master cylinder properly. See if that cures the pedal problem.

If not - check the clutch spring next, again that’s a problematic area and easy fix.

Easy how-to for removing the spring completely (some folks take it out and don’t look back):
https://www.fordnxt.com/project-car...g-clutch-pedal-spring-removal-in-two-minutes/

If neither of the 2 areas above solve the issue it’s very possible the pressure plate was damaged or clutch disc has come apart.

 

[Zrussian13]

I had the same symptoms in my hyundai about 2-3 years back and it ended up being the clutch disc had burnt up. Happened one day after a trip up north and I think the weak ass clutch in those cars couldn't handle pulling the mountains with a heavy load in the car. I was sure it was hydraulic related or something broke because there was no warning signs ahead of time just stopped engaging all of the sudden but nope. Just a burnt up disc.

 

[3star2nr]

2016 GTPP 26k miles. Basic bolt-on car.


The car will currently not go into any gear and the clutch will not disengage hardly at all. Pedal currently feels normal and with the engine off, shifter "feels" normal going into all gears.

congrats you just broke your shift forks, or burnt up your clutch, or throw out bearing. your prize is dropping the tranny..

This happened driving home last night. I was going for a WOT 2-3 shift and it wouldn’t go into 3rd.

why are you driving like this. Do you want to buy a new tranny? Cause that's how you buy a new tranny...

I've read about people being "locked out" of 3rd with high RPM shifting but I have never experienced it. At first I thought that's what happened, but then realized I couldn’t get it into any gear.

Its beginning To look a lot like shift forks...

I also then realized the pedal was stuck about halfway down. I was able to pull the pedal back up and it stayed there and now "feels" normal, but doesn’t do much of anything. I managed to make it home last night only shifting a few times without the clutch.

A new issue has arrived... Sounds like your hydraulics are fucked, or you fucked your throw out bearing or clutch....

I was lucky I never had to stop, because there's no way I could've taken off again.

Thoughts?

Getting home with a fine car is the only prize on the street... Stop beating your car up...

Sounds like you're having multiple issues. I'd start with the clutch, hydraulics and clutch throw out bearings... Theres no way to check these parts without pulling the trans. If these parts are good or u replace them with no change time to buy a new tranny...

 

[ManBearPig]

Lol. You don’t drive your car hard every once in a while? Perhaps not, as you seem to know everything. Except how cars work. The car shifts fine. The clutch just doesn’t work.

 

[Zrussian13]

I doubt it's the shift forks if it wont go into any gear with the engine running. If it was just 1st and 2nd or just 3rd and 4th that would make more sense.

 

[jgruben1134]

If you're getting wet fingers when checking the hydraulic line, there's a leak. Find that before worrying about anything else. I suspect that fixing the leak and bleeding the system will solve your problem. The leak plus the fact you have no shifting issues with the car off suggests it's only a hydraulic issue. If that doesn't work, move on to diagnosing a second problem.

 

[lacanteen]

The fact that you were able to get home by shifting a few times without the clutch tells me the tranny itself is probably OK.

 

[ManBearPig]

It’s definitely an issue with the clutch. I’m not too concerned with the trans.

While driving along I could push the pedal to the floor and it doesn’t do anything. It’s just not engaging and I’m hoping it’s just hydraulics. The only reason I suspect it may not be as simple as that is the pedal has a pretty good feel.

I’ll figure out how to pull a vacuum and bleed the system, then go from there.

I left be a little surprised but wouldn’t be shocked if the disc has blown up. I’d be pretty surprised if the trans was hurt

 

[w3rkn]

Why not take it to the Dealer?

 

[ManBearPig]

Why not take it to the Dealer?

I’m a year outside of warranty.

 

[CompOrangeFanatic]

You did yourself a favor. Get a new performance clutch like the McLeod RST or other to your liking and then replace the crappy plastic clutch line and get a new slave cylinder and TOB. You'll also need a new flywheel to go with a new clutch. This is what I did and have never had another clutch related issue again. Check to see if Beefcake Racing still has a LaborDay sale going on. This is what I did when I bought everything and saved over $200. Good Luck

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