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To Cat Delete or Not, after blown engine?

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BlueCollarDaily

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No pics. They asked me if I wanted them. I declined. Yes the ring lands were broken and a piece missing on the top of the piston. On the intake valve side of the piston. It can't happen on the exhaust side under this scenario. I was told the exhaust side of the piston gets too hot for the fuel to accumulate there.
Wow makes me want to look at coil packs too haha....but surely brand new car....i did do a bunch of swapping when we first had misfires, before we knew it was mechanical, and it never followed.....
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800 is a lot to be pushing for 93 imo.
Would strongly recommend switching to E85
 
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BlueCollarDaily

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800 is a lot to be pushing for 93 imo.
Would strongly recommend switching to E85
It's not available but I have boostane now at least...this is how the kit comes 13-14 psi 50 states legal carb exempt...full kit...
I'm not arguing scared crap out of my in hindsight too but now I've spent the money ( should have just bought a forged short block and had it on stand by haha for the 6k I have in these 3 psi ). If I could even get tuners to do me a flex tune i would go ahead and make that plunge as a near by town does have some e85...I could run it a lot just be hard to run it 100 percent of the time...maybe 70/30...run e85 and have to top off now and then with 93 till I could get back over there....
By 800 I mean flywheel now rwhp...aka the 2 hits I got on the old system were 81lbs/min on the MAF which if my research is correct would be right around 810hp...it had some positive STFT and negative LTFT so it kinda washed out as an additive to the 81lbs/min....
A flex tune soft on the e85 side would be ideal for my situation!!!
 

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When catalytic converters "plug up" or melt, you will notice a dramatic decrease in performance, and you would have noticed it get progressively worse. Not just all of the sudden cause a lean condition and misfires.

what fuel system are you using?

What heat range and gap are your spark plugs?

13-14 psi is way too much for 93 octane on a 12:1 motor.

If people are saying they smell fuel, that is definitely something to address before doing WOT pulls.
 

stang17

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Thanks that what I was leaning toward I assume its gonna be way to loud and then I'd put resonators in the Hpipe area before its over....
Thanks for your answer, I know the aftermarket often blow to pieces but did you stock ones melt and back up causing your any engine troubles? Did it gas you out inside the car catless ?
Thanks for any replies...
Stock ones started to melt, but luckily no engine damage at that time. The car started to have a sulfur smell to it, which prompted us to inspect the cats and it was at that time we saw how they were starting to clog/melt.

The kooks ones did the same exact thing, but failed after only a few hundred miles.

I lost the stock motor at 12,000ish miles when the snout of the crankshaft snapped cruising along in 6th gear at 2,000 rpm. More than likely it was due to something with the ATI balancer the dealer installed.

Currently have about 1,500 miles on my 11:1 aluminator and still running the catless Kooks. I don't notice any smell while in the car with windows down, but if you stand behind the car you can definitely tell there is no cats.
 

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BlueCollarDaily

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When catalytic converters "plug up" or melt, you will notice a dramatic decrease in performance, and you would have noticed it get progressively worse. Not just all of the sudden cause a lean condition and misfires.

what fuel system are you using?

What heat range and gap are your spark plugs?

13-14 psi is way too much for 93 octane on a 12:1 motor.

If people are saying they smell fuel, that is definitely something to address before doing WOT pulls.
When catalytic converters "plug up" or melt, you will notice a dramatic decrease in performance, and you would have noticed it get progressively worse. Not just all of the sudden cause a lean condition and misfires.

what fuel system are you using?

What heat range and gap are your spark plugs?

13-14 psi is way too much for 93 octane on a 12:1 motor.

If people are saying they smell fuel, that is definitely something to address before doing WOT pulls.
I'm sorry I was unclear, I was saying when I read about cat deletes some people say they get out of the car smelling like fuel...some say they dont when they have cat deletes....
It's a full kit down to the specific plugs, which off memory are SP-522 pregapped at .035. The fuel system also comes with the kit and consist of 50lb injectors and a BAP...however it didnt go lean during either test hit the first nor the one it blew on during shift recovery.....In Stage 1 the stock injectors would be around 45% utilization without the BAP at 71-73lbs min thru the MAF ( 730 advertised HP) I would think the larger injectors and BAP probably still has it comfortably low but I'll log for SURE.....
The kit comes preset to this boost just trying to figure out everything I can do NOT to repeat what happened as i really feel like I lucked out and got a good copy of the engine this time.....
Thanks !!
 
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BlueCollarDaily

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Stock ones started to melt, but luckily no engine damage at that time. The car started to have a sulfur smell to it, which prompted us to inspect the cats and it was at that time we saw how they were starting to clog/melt.

The kooks ones did the same exact thing, but failed after only a few hundred miles.

I lost the stock motor at 12,000ish miles when the snout of the crankshaft snapped cruising along in 6th gear at 2,000 rpm. More than likely it was due to something with the ATI balancer the dealer installed.

Currently have about 1,500 miles on my 11:1 aluminator and still running the catless Kooks. I don't notice any smell while in the car with windows down, but if you stand behind the car you can definitely tell there is no cats.
Great to know thanks, yea man when I read about the ATI dampeners on these cranks along with everyone saying 13 is to much I really regret it.
While the new engine was in the crate it come with possibly a revised, according to tech, stock viscous fluid dampener pressed on from factory. In hindsight I could EASILY have come home and got my 6 rib stock stuff and come back up there and tossed it on the engine. In fact it would have been LESS labor....then I'd have 10ish PSI and could have sold the stage 2 setup. STAGE 1 was 10 psi on stock 6 rib everything with the stock blower pulley, throttle body maf housing and air box and injectors...I even have the tune stored would have been super easy....at that point...
Now I wonder as well If the 15-17 billet 2 piece balancer repurposed for the 18-up stage 2 systems even has viscous fluid...aka the harmonic dampening aspect Ford seemed to think the Gen 3 needed stock that it didnt in 15-17...the stand offs didnt line up on either engine...I wonder if THAT, a broken crank is also a variable or oil pump gears using an aftermarket 15-17 balancer design.....
Am I nuts or would it be a monster shit sandwich to eat, to spend $4750 plus 1000 install plus a blown motor, just to lose mpg and the obvious slight drivability efficiency going from stock TB, MAF, and port injector data to stage 2 stuff then just putting a larger pulley on which takes me right back to stage 1 boost...that would be TOUGH to swallow....lol....
If I do it I'll put the new stock balancer back on and all my 6 rib and stock stuff to get the 10psi and sell the stage 2 system complete to someone that wants to make power I guess.....
Not just you guys but everyone I call tells me to put a 3.75 pulley on it which would literally be reverting back to stage 1 trim....I'd have to spend 6k to get the same boost I had before I spent the 6k hehe...hard to abide that....
Why even make a 50 state carb legal 93 kit at 13 psi if its universally recognized as to much someone is wrong here...boy I wish I had never gotten it....thank God I paid to have it put on by ASE tech though
 

stang17

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Great to know thanks, yea man when I read about the ATI dampeners on these cranks along with everyone saying 13 is to much I really regret it.
While the new engine was in the crate it come with possibly a revised, according to tech, stock viscous fluid dampener pressed on from factory. In hindsight I could EASILY have come home and got my 6 rib stock stuff and come back up there and tossed it on the engine. In fact it would have been LESS labor....then I'd have 10ish PSI and could have sold the stage 2 setup. STAGE 1 was 10 psi on stock 6 rib everything with the stock blower pulley, throttle body maf housing and air box and injectors...I even have the tune stored would have been super easy....at that point...
Now I wonder as well If the 15-17 billet 2 piece balancer repurposed for the 18-up stage 2 systems even has viscous fluid...aka the harmonic dampening aspect Ford seemed to think the Gen 3 needed stock that it didnt in 15-17...the stand offs didnt line up on either engine...I wonder if THAT, a broken crank is also a variable or oil pump gears using an aftermarket 15-17 balancer design.....
Am I nuts or would it be a monster shit sandwich to eat, to spend $4750 plus 1000 install plus a blown motor, just to lose mpg and the obvious slight drivability efficiency going from stock TB, MAF, and port injector data to stage 2 stuff then just putting a larger pulley on which takes me right back to stage 1 boost...that would be TOUGH to swallow....lol....
If I do it I'll put the new stock balancer back on and all my 6 rib and stock stuff to get the 10psi and sell the stage 2 system complete to someone that wants to make power I guess.....
Not just you guys but everyone I call tells me to put a 3.75 pulley on it which would literally be reverting back to stage 1 trim....I'd have to spend 6k to get the same boost I had before I spent the 6k hehe...hard to abide that....
Why even make a 50 state carb legal 93 kit at 13 psi if its universally recognized as to much someone is wrong here...boy I wish I had never gotten it....thank God I paid to have it put on by ASE tech though
I read an article stating that the crankshaft was revised for 2018+ model years, so I wonder if there was some type of manufacturing defect in the previous years.

Nonetheless, the dealer that installed my ATI said they didn't have to hone it as the tolerances were within spec. They also did not use the recommend ATI tool to install the dampener. I'm guessing the balancer was never fully seated/pressed on correctly and it began to fail over the course of a few thousand miles. I had done dozens of dyno pulls and 1/4 mile passes datalogging each time. Never had any knock, even when the whipple tune was commanding 23 degrees of timing with the 3.625 pulley on 93 octane ( 96 octane with lucas oil octane booster).
 
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BlueCollarDaily

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Ahhh yeap the puppies are interference fit basically have to be tight and snug...
Dang 23 mine is commanding 12-13 degrees hehe...I'm running about 97 with a little boostane.....
One thing I think will be easier on it when it blew up before it was advance trac off and drag mode so when it got to the tight gear splits on this A10 it was shift recovering at full boost but lower rpm....this 2650 rotor pack is real efficient....and that's maximum load it's when the log shows it going into full KR aka blowing up..
If I just drop to sport do nothing else the trans will get a little more pressure but the TC will pull a LOT of timing on the shifts and this should help minimize the recovery load timing....
Initial test was 1600 degrees at 81lbs min 7350rpm...I went ahead and order a cheapo MBRP street cat back with will open it up to 3 inches at the connection back...I'll log with it...then maybe go 3 inch cat delete down to it...

Car is running like a dream just trying to keep it that way...best I can tell it added precisely what they said it would about 60-70 wheel aka 8 or so lbs min thru the maf....its making what Stage 1 did by 5400...then timing and AFR ( not sure what's being done with cam timing ) adds 8ish lbs min from there could definitely feel the extra punch...
Alex was running 66lbs min during his 10psi Vortech video which he said was 640ish wheel which is about what I ran before 67 worst day to 72ish...on stage 1....both engine run dead on 81 heat soaked stage 2 so it IS a noticable difference...
So we will have stock logs, then full 3 inch Hpipe mbrp street system logs...then possibly 3 inch Cat Delete from there....I'll feel a little better getting the stock exhaust off and opening up the exit path a bit hehe.....
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