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Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

GEBRONI

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Let me see if I can find my file for the adapter on my home PC later tonight. If you wanted, I can print one for you but that all depends on still having the file :D. Regarding the LOC, no I have the Speaker to RCA adapter from Hextall and I just converted the signal to low level through Forscan. I took that RCA signal back to the Subwoofer.
It's cool no worries and I appreciate it... I will Dremel the bottom of sub woofer to fit into car... I have a base model stereo so will use the high level inputs... I did check for bass roll off and that does not occur in base model radio since all 4 channels come from radio no AMPs... Will be upgrading to sync 3 once I get my hardware from HellHorse Performance; can't wait ;-)
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Emilbadal

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GEBRONI

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Great idea with the base so it is more sturdy; and the additional nut to secure the bolt more ;-). Sanku for sharing meng!
 

mikes2017gt

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Nice! You 3D printed that block? If I was you, I'd offer to sell those here and on whatever forum CV has for those subs. If the floor of the spare tire well was flat, it would make life so much easier. But you created a nice work-around! Good stuff.
 

GEBRONI

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Great idea with the base so it is more sturdy; and the additional nut to secure the bolt more ;-). Sanku for sharing meng!
I do not have a 3D printer ;-) so I just took the high density foam holding the air pump and cut it down... There is a seam line you can follow as two half's made into one that is good height... But then had to still trim it thinner to fit... took about two hours and a few cuts to my fingers LOL. also cut out the extra padding on the trunk spare tire cover since that is about 1/4 of inch... Then replaced the wing nut with a normal 8mm nut so no extra height as it was higher than the speaker... Almost flush, I say about few mm off...
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Emilbadal

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Nice! You 3D printed that block? If I was you, I'd offer to sell those here and on whatever forum CV has for those subs. If the floor of the spare tire well was flat, it would make life so much easier. But you created a nice work-around! Good stuff.
Thanks. well, if any body needs one, dm me. It takes about 3-4 hours of print time for each one.
 

ean611

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Well, I just did something I haven't seen online yet. I didn't like any of the mounting options for the DSR1 or Maestro device, so I just removed the stock amp. Two 10mm and one 7mm bolt later, that plate comes out, and I was able to use a T30 to remove the factory ford amp from the mounting plate.

I used the plate to mount the DSR1 to, rather than have to find another location given the proximity to the factory connectors needed.
20190909_194651.jpg
 

randy_tho

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That's up above the driver kick panel? I have a base so no factory amp. I did put a crossover there and used some abs plastic to make a mount plate. It's a good spot for sure.

Well, I just did something I haven't seen online yet. I didn't like any of the mounting options for the DSR1 or Maestro device, so I just removed the stock amp. Two 10mm and one 7mm bolt later, that plate comes out, and I was able to use a T30 to remove the factory ford amp from the mounting plate.

I used the plate to mount the DSR1 to, rather than have to find another location given the proximity to the factory connectors needed.
20190909_194651.jpg
 

Racemaster

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Racemaster

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I have had the same problem here many times.The search does not always find threads I know were posted
 

Racemaster

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Keeping the wiring short and using the factory ground location has kept all of the noise out of this system.
It was a tight fit.I have since swapped over to a Helix P-Six which is even larger.It now is REALLY tight in there.
If I had to do it again,I would take the peddles out of the car to be able to work easier.
Ford leaves no room to mount anything.
 

mikes2017gt

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It's probably in this thread somewhere, but I missed it. Coming out of the factory amp/going to the speakers, which wire is the positive and which is negative? You've got white and white/black, gray and gray/black, green and green/black, etc. Which wire is which?

Sure; I could pull the door panels, pull the speakers and see which wire goes to which terminal on the speaker, but tomorrow morning I'm soldering up my wiring harness/molex plugs and will be doing that before I pull the door panels. Don't really have the luxury of tearing out the entire interior and leaving it like that for a few days until I'm done. Install will be done in stages, even if it means I have no tunes for a day or two.

Thank you.
 

GEBRONI

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I dialed-in my tune as follows if you go with the Cerwin Vega spare tire sub and factory speakers. I used kicker passive KISLOC on rear speakers 100% settings both channels. With Forscan removed factory EQ. Then adjusted the head unit's audio settings with treble +4, middle +3, bass default, and +4 front for fade. For sub have 60% Gain, 70% bass boost, and 40% LPF hz. Sounds balanced and good to me.
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