Installed a Tremec Magnum XL in my S550

[Kong76]

is it strictly speaking miles driven or 'pulling away from stop's? I think you should be able to log 500 miles in about 3 days without trying that hard, a week easy.

Miles driven. Stop and go traffic/ around town is what is recommended. That is why it takes so damn long. Took me almost a month because I live 3.5 miles from work.

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[shogun32]

Stop and go traffic/ around town is what is recommended.

So what they really meant to specify is how many times you slipped the clutch from a start. Granted nobody has a handy counter to click off every start/stop. WAG something like 400-800+ start/stops then.

 

[frankrizzo487]

They say they want 1000 clutch cycles going through the gears, all city driving.. Im sure I could get 1000 clutches cycles in 250 miles or less.. Ive been doing u-turns on the main road every quarter mile for the last 2 days! Haha Currently at 170...
E="shogun32, post: 2640104, member: 39823"]is it strictly speaking miles driven or 'pulling away from stop's? I think you should be able to log 500 miles in about 3 days without trying that hard, a week easy.[/QUOTE]

 

[aleccesarenriquez]

Anyone running a driveshaft safety loop? Figured I'd pick one up but not sure if I'd have any issues with ones that are intended for mt-82 s550s.

 

[db252]

Those of us with carbon fiber driveshafts don't care to much but with the aluminum, this is a good option.

http://www.jpcracing.com/jpc-tremec-magnum-xl-driveshaft-safety-loop/

 

[aleccesarenriquez]

Finally installed the Mantic after sending out the trans for repair.

Didn’t have a lot of space to work with but luckily I’m skinny! Got it done in a couple of hours. Bell housing is back on as well so all I’m waiting on is the Trans now.

One question did occur to me though: do you guys think I’ll be needing a spacer for the throwout bearing with the mantic? The rxt didn’t need one but I’m not sure if the mantic protrudes less.


This is what mantic said:

I don’t think so....be sure and measure the compression of the bearing. You want the clutch to compress the fingers .500-.625 when it will all be assembled.

 

[db252]

You won't need a spacer when using the standard slave cylinder but you should always measure and this definitely matters when adding an adjustable slave. There are plenty of videos or tech sheets that show you how to do the measurements. Our stock style of slave cylinder is a constant contact setup and has a 1.5" compression range which leaves about an inch of slave to pressure plate activation (plenty). Make sure to bleed your old/new slave cylinder as well.

 

[aleccesarenriquez]

You won't need a spacer when using the standard slave cylinder but you should always measure and this definitely matters when adding an adjustable slave. There are plenty of videos or tech sheets that show you how to do the measurements. Our stock style of slave cylinder is a constant contact setup and has a 1.5" compression range which leaves about an inch of slave to pressure plate activation (plenty). Make sure to bleed your old/new slave cylinder as well.

Yep will do.

I also wanted to share a bit of information with you guys as I'm having the trans rebuilt right now and this bit of information was relayed to me by the builder, and then confirmed on the S197 forum:

I have recently discovered some interesting information regarding the Magnum XL synchros during my transmission rebuild. I had issues shifting into second gear last year so I decided to drop the transmission and see what was wrong. Checked clutch and it was good so I decided to tear into the transmission. I discovered that I had two broken fork pads and the synchros for 2nd and 3rd did not look great either. I decided to upgrade all of the internals. Replaced the stock plastic fork pads with bronze, replaced the 2nd gear blocker ring with a new CF one, replaced the 3,4,5,6,R blocker rings with hybrid CF/Bronze, and replaced the synchro assembly for 1-2 and 3-4. I didn't want to get into this thing again and figured doing all this now was cheap insurance.

After I received the new 1-2 and 3-4 synchronizer assemblies they looked different than the ones I was replacing so I decided to call Tremec and see why. They told me I had the wrong part numbers. After calling all over the country to Elite Tremec distributors I found out that none of them knew why the part numbers were different than the other Magnums and TR6060s. One shop even said they had installed the exact part numbers I was using in one of their Magnum XL rebuilds. I kept researching and ended up talking to Don at DDPerformance. He was very helpful.

Don was also stumped, but ended up calling an engineering contact he had at Tremec to find out why the synchronizers were different in my transmission. Come to find out it has to do specifically with the 2.66 first gear transmission that I have and the fact that these gear ratios are also used in the OEM TR6060 transmissions used on the GT500s and 2012+ Camaros.

Apparently the Camaro guys were complaining about hard shifting in cold weather so Tremec changed the synchro designs for only the 2.66 Magnum XL transmissions. The change allows for better shifting in cold temps, but it is not the best synchro design from a performance standpoint.

There are two types of synchronizers that Tremec uses in these transmissions. The first type is the symmetrical and the other they call advanced tooth. The original Magnum came with all gears using the symmetrical synchronizer, but there were complaints by the GT500 guys about shifting into second gear. They ended up going to the advanced tooth design for second gear and adding CF blocker rings. According to Tremec, the real advantage was moving to the CF blocker rings and not the advanced tooth design. This is the design that is used for the 2.97 Magnum XLs and most TR6060 transmissions except the ones using the 2.66 first gear. Those transmissions also have an advanced tooth design for 3rd gear.

I do not give a crap about cold weather so I have decided to change out my 2nd and 3rd gear (which were shot anyway) and change them to the symmetrical design like the 1st generation of Magnums. I was assured that this was the best way to go and that I would have one of the best 2.66 Magnum XLs out there with this setup. We shall see.

To summarize (Synchronizer type, blocker ring material):

First Gen Magnum:
1- Symmetrical, Bronze
2- Symmetrical, Bronze
3- Symmetrical, Bronze
4- Symmetrical, Bronze

Second Gen Magnum:
1- Symmetrical, Bronze
2- Advanced, CF
3- Symmetrical, Bronze
4- Symmetrical, Bronze

Magnum XL (2.97 first):
1- Symmetrical, Bronze
2- Advanced, CF
3- Symmetrical, Bronze
4- Symmetrical, Bronze

Magnum XL (2.66 first):
1- Symmetrical, Bronze
2- Advanced, CF
3- Advanced, Bronze
4- Symmetrical, Bronze

My new setup with Magnum XL (2.66 first):
1- Symmetrical, Bronze
2- Symmetrical, CF
3- Symmetrical, Hybrid (CF/Bronze)
4- Symmetrical, Hybrid (CF/Bronze)

I'm having mine built very similar to this users setup (only difference is I'll have bronze blocker rings on 3 and 4, not hybrids I believe).

My symptoms weren't exactly the same as this guy's (I couldn't downshift to 2nd; all I got was grinding. Also it was tough to hit the 2-3 shift under high load without grinding), but it looks like 2nd gear might be a culprit for issues with this trans if you guys encounter them. Hopefully info can definitely save you some headache and research effort, especially those of you who live in warmer climates and/or have the 2.66 first setup.

 

[3star2nr]

Bro you drive a mustang why are u shifting to 1st to go around corners you got muscle bro lol

Jokes aside you got the holy grail of trannies. I want a tremec myself, but its nice to know the MT82 can actually stand up to some abuse.

My car is bone stock and its gonna stay that way until parts start failing

 

[Alex.Envy]

Anyone dyno yet with the t56? I'm not sure which gear is the "dyno gear." I also don't know if its transmission based or just gearing ratio based. '18, whipple, T56. Thanks

 

[aleccesarenriquez]

Anyone dyno yet with the t56? I'm not sure which gear is the "dyno gear." I also don't know if its transmission based or just gearing ratio based. '18, whipple, T56. Thanks

I haven't but the 1:1 gear is 4th, so you should be good to dyno in that as long as you don't max out the mph limit on the dyno.

 

[Wolverine]

Yep, just use the 1:1 ratio in the transmission, or whatever is closest to it if you don’t have a true 1:1. The T56 has a 1:1 which is 4th like Alec said. Let her rip!

 

[aleccesarenriquez]

Hey boys, buddy of mine (@Plimmer) has a few questions about clearance when performing this swap.

Does the T56 xl bellhousing have similar clearance as the MT-82? His current bottom mount turbos are close to the mt82 bellhousing and before he pulls the trigger on this swap, he wants to make sure he'll have the space.

 

[db252]

The bottom ring is slightly bigger than stock which made a BMR brace no longer fit for me. It’s slight but I don’t know where his turbos are exactly.

 

[aleccesarenriquez]

The bottom ring is slightly bigger than stock which made a BMR brace no longer fit for me. It’s slight but I don’t know where his turbos are exactly.

Hmm interesting

He posted a few pics in his thread

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mt82-bellhousing-clearance-vs-magnum-xl.130981/

I suggested he called Ben calimer but i figured I’d ask you guys here first.

I’ve been trying to help him out with getting the info but if I’m honest, I’m not sure this is the swap for him since he’s an HPDE guy. Worried the gears might be too long for his liking

Might have to do something crazy like 4.30 gears to keep it similar to his current mt82/3.73 combo

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