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Built Motor Failure - After 1000 miles??

gimmie11s

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Without looking at a log, it's impossible to ever know what happened.

Make sure the fuel system is up to snuff when the new motor goes in before romping on it.
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Woopaloop

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It's not limited to MMR, my best friend had his Livernois block drop a sleeve and they refused to admit fault. By the time he got there, they redecked the block even though he told them he was coming to inspect it himself.

I haven't seen a large shop take ownership of their screwups in nearly 10 years. Heck even the small shops are starting to do it because they know they can get away with it. There are just too many hands in the pot. That's probably why all these complete solution shops charge so much extra.
I've been having trouble figuring out who I'm going to go with when I build my motor for this very reason. I want someone who will stand behind their work and not run away when something goes wrong
 

kent0464

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9.5-1 compression @ 18psi boost, on pump 93 w/boostane .......that is on the edge and the probable cause.
Do the math (your tuner should have).....[(boost psi + 14.7)/14.7] x SCR=FCR.....anyway that brings your Final Compression Ratio (FCR) to 21.13-1 that’s a little too much for pump gas and octane boosters, more on this subject is a available @ SuperCargerForums.com
 

Wolvee

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I've been having trouble figuring out who I'm going to go with when I build my motor for this very reason. I want someone who will stand behind their work and not run away when something goes wrong
A builder will almost always be able to claim it was the tuner as will a Tuner can claim it's the Builder. I heard one shop even claiming it was the "Coating" on the pistons the car owner chose. There is no way around this anymore unless we spend the $$$$ money for a one stop solution. ..even then they could blame it on your fuel if it's the right kind of failure.

I have no faith in warranties anymore. I think MPR racing engines is the current golden boy company and I haven't seen any out of the box failures. I'd probably start with them.
 

Notagain

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I've been having trouble figuring out who I'm going to go with when I build my motor for this very reason. I want someone who will stand behind their work and not run away when something goes wrong
MPR out of Florida Or RGR who supplies engines for JPC and others.
 

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Notagain

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Also 1 word comes to mind with an issue like this!

DATALOG!!!!!

Then Datalog some more!!

Tired of datalogging? Do it a few more times!!

Please dont tell me you shoved 18psi in a fresh engine without doing a bunch of part throttle pulls while datalogging and monitoring fuel trims and knock!!

Also just my 2 cents but datalogging on a dyno is VERY different than datalogging on the street/track.
 

SoCalTim

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Even a sleeved motor built to the highest standards will be killed if it runs lean enough.

I would not be looking at the engine builder in this scenario, as hearing the power and boost numbers on pump gas sounds like she was running on the edge.

My personal thoughts, I would also not tune for Boostane. By all means add it to the tank, but treat it as regular 93 when it comes to tuning. Give you a little head room incase you have a bad tank of gas.

Just my 0.02. Good luck going forward OP.
 
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cdmustang2016

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Also 1 word comes to mind with an issue like this!

DATALOG!!!!!

Then Datalog some more!!

Tired of datalogging? Do it a few more times!!

Please dont tell me you shoved 18psi in a fresh engine without doing a bunch of part throttle pulls while datalogging and monitoring fuel trims and knock!!

Also just my 2 cents but datalogging on a dyno is VERY different than datalogging on the street/track.
Tuner had it from start up tune until it was ready for delivery. Took a full 2 months at the tuner from when he started on it. He was responsible for break in. daily driving it etc etc. so when i got it was ready to go. i think about 500 miles were put on it with the tuner
 
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cdmustang2016

cdmustang2016

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Has the builder offered to help with a new motor? Discount at least?
All involved are working together at this point to get this resolved. No one has discussed $$ in either direction. My focus is why this happens and how to plan and safeguard for this not to happen again.
 
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cdmustang2016

cdmustang2016

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A builder will almost always be able to claim it was the tuner as will a Tuner can claim it's the Builder. I heard one shop even claiming it was the "Coating" on the pistons the car owner chose. There is no way around this anymore unless we spend the $$$$ money for a one stop solution. ..even then they could blame it on your fuel if it's the right kind of failure.

I have no faith in warranties anymore. I think MPR racing engines is the current golden boy company and I haven't seen any out of the box failures. I'd probably start with them.
The reality is the builder and the tuner on my build and others work together from build, start up, tune to delivery. Hard for one to blame the other if they worked together with the focus of making power safely for the customer.

In my case. i left it in the hands of the experts. And the results weren't what i expected.
 

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Wolvee

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The reality is the builder and the tuner on my build and others work together from build, start up, tune to delivery. Hard for one to blame the other if they worked together with the focus of making power safely for the customer.

In my case. i left it in the hands of the experts. And the results weren't what i expected.

Unfortunately I've seen that EXACT scenario. Both blame each others work and you're left buying the parts but "because they feel sorry for you" they'll give you a deal on Labor. That's the way they screw us. Each shop will say something like, "I can't eat this cost, it's not my fault. This is the best I can do." You're left there with your broken engine with no options other than going to another shop and paying full price again or taking the discount in labor. Either way you're still paying for more Machine work and pistons plus all the misc.

Sucks. I wish it were different. Even busting out the shops online doesn't work anymore because every shop has their faithful followers that will think it's impossible for their shop to make a mistake because they didn't make a mistake on their car. Your complaints will get turned into just noise and disregarded.

Sorry to sound so negative.
 
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cdmustang2016

cdmustang2016

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Unfortunately I've seen that EXACT scenario. Both blame each others work and you're left buying the parts but "because they feel sorry for you" they'll give you a deal on Labor. That's the way they screw us. Each shop will say something like, "I can't eat this cost, it's not my fault. This is the best I can do." You're left there with your broken engine with no options other than going to another shop and paying full price again or taking the discount in labor. Either way you're still paying for more Machine work and pistons plus all the misc.

Sucks. I wish it were different. Even busting out the shops online doesn't work anymore because every shop has their faithful followers that will think it's impossible for their shop to make a mistake because they didn't make a mistake on their car. Your complaints will get turned into just noise and disregarded.

Sorry to sound so negative

Unfortunately I can't disagree. But I can make changes to prevent this from happening to me again. And get the built motor / tune / reliability that was expected
 

mustang1

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you could try again, this time set to the power levels of the Roush phase 2, 727 / 610, with the built motor as extra margin of safety.

Roush documentation ~ "The use of fuel additives (i.e. octane boosters) is not recommended.
 

Jay-rod427

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#1 went lean when fuel pumps starved for fuel with tank that low. Should only do pulls with minimum half tank. The stock and stock type fuel hats can’t keep full of enough fuel when hard accelerating.
 
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cdmustang2016

cdmustang2016

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you could try again, this time set to the power levels of the Roush phase 2, 727 / 610, with the built motor as extra margin of safety.

Roush documentation ~ "The use of fuel additives (i.e. octane boosters) is not recommended.
That's not rwhp. I had Roush Phase 2. then went with this build.
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