Give me Amp/DSP/Forscan/ETC For Dummies advice

[Cathul]

You will get a code about missing DSP. Everything else is unaffected.

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[mikes2017gt]

You will get a code about missing DSP. Everything else is unaffected.

This is the first time I've seen anyone mention getting a code about missing DSP. Maybe I missed it? What code do you get? Is it a DTC? Can you shut off the trouble code for the missing DSP? Driving around with the DTC light on would drive me nuts. Think I'll unhook all the connectors at the amp and start the car and see what happens.

 

[Cathul]

You can see the code with ForScan. It's not activating the DTC light.

 

[mikes2017gt]

Copy that, Cathul. Thanks for that info. I feel better now! My car threw DTCs like candy when I had my intake manifold issues and now I'm mentally scarred from it. LOL! Don't like to see that light come on at all.

 

[Cathul]

I don't like DTCs either. That's why i put in a DSR1 instead of the CARAV 12-240 T-harness. The DSR1 mimics the stock amp so no DTCs are thrown for a missing DSP. The DSR1 may not be the end of all DSPs ("only" 8 channels, only a certain amount of frequencies in the parametric eq et. al. when tuning via the app), but it's doing a great job for integrating an aftermarket amp/speaker system into the Mustang.

 

[celica0774]

You can see the code with ForScan. It's not activating the DTC light.

Thanks Cathul.
I'm working out the sound system to install before I order my manual 2020 GT Premium convertible,
It will be my 5th Mustang and none of the factory sound systems have even been passable.
I may use the DSR1 (or equivalent) if it will prevent the code(s).

 

[Cathul]

You can also use the T-harness CARAV 12-240 (look at Amazon for this one). If you leave the stock amp connected but route the signal wiring from the T-harness to your DSP/amps of choice you won't have any codes either as the CAN wires are still routed to the stock amp. It's just not getting any other signals if using a CARAV T-harness. You just need to solder on some RCA plugs or use Stinger speedwire to bring the signal cables to your new DSP/Amp location. Only thing you need to get from somewhere is a remote turn on (technically also from the ACM in the same plug if US model, but different plug for EU models. And you need some kind of relay to bring the 6 volts up to 12 volt).

 

[celica0774]

You can also use the T-harness CARAV 12-240 (look at Amazon for this one). If you leave the stock amp connected but route the signal wiring from the T-harness to your DSP/amps of choice you won't have any codes either as the CAN wires are still routed to the stock amp. It's just not getting any other signals if using a CARAV T-harness. You just need to solder on some RCA plugs or use Stinger speedwire to bring the signal cables to your new DSP/Amp location. Only thing you need to get from somewhere is a remote turn on (technically also from the ACM in the same plug if US model, but different plug for EU models. And you need some kind of relay to bring the 6 volts up to 12 volt).

From everything that I have read, this system looks easier to upgrade than the system in my 2006.
I'm still not sure what Ford was thinking with the door subs in that car.
I especially like how the Forscan can level the output from the factory head unit.

 

[josephstef]

Don't mean to hi-jack this but have been trying to hunt around. Ive got a shaker 6 speaker which i've added a sub and amp from the rear deck speakers.
The sub sorta dies out a lower frequencies, Should i disable factory eq on the ACM? or am gonna make it sound worse on the rest of my stock speakers.

 

[krishelnino]

Don't mean to hi-jack this but have been trying to hunt around. Ive got a shaker 6 speaker which i've added a sub and amp from the rear deck speakers.
The sub sorta dies out a lower frequencies, Should i disable factory eq on the ACM? or am gonna make it sound worse on the rest of my stock speakers.

I believe that's because the factory eq has bass roll off for the rear speakers. If you turn off factory eq, it wouldn't make the existing speakers worse. In fact, the stock speakers sounded much better with eq turned off.

 

[josephstef]

I believe that's because the factory eq has bass roll off for the rear speakers. If you turn off factory eq, it wouldn't make the existing speakers worse. In fact, the stock speakers sounded much better with eq turned off.

Awesome thanks for the quick reply, ill give this a go tonight!

 

[27RED]

Forgive my noobyness.... I searched FORscan and it came back with ALOT of stuff not regarding car audio. I just replaced my factory components in my GT premium with Diamond Audio D365s and a fosgate 400.2ad amp. Used the built in high level on the amp. After the install the midrange is WAY overpowering. Using the sluggish and clunky factory touch screen (premium GT) turning down the mid all the way, it's still too much. How do I use this FORscan to get the levels flattened out?!

 

[Matti777]

You can also use the T-harness CARAV 12-240 (look at Amazon for this one). If you leave the stock amp connected but route the signal wiring from the T-harness to your DSP/amps of choice you won't have any codes either as the CAN wires are still routed to the stock amp. It's just not getting any other signals if using a CARAV T-harness. You just need to solder on some RCA plugs or use Stinger speedwire to bring the signal cables to your new DSP/Amp location. Only thing you need to get from somewhere is a remote turn on (technically also from the ACM in the same plug if US model, but different plug for EU models. And you need some kind of relay to bring the 6 volts up to 12 volt).

Resurrecting an old post. I've read a lot but still confused. I want to leave the stock amp connected for the canbus. I'm just unclear as to how the speaker wires from the new amp are routed to the speakers . As I understand it, with the CARAV harness, the amplified speaker signals re-enter the factory harness behind the HU and goes back to the factory amp which makes no sense to me. I assume there needs to be another harness at the factory amp to jumper the speaker connections to use the factory speaker out connectors. Is this what the HRN-AR-FO3 Harness does?
Maybe I am lost

 

[Cathul]

With a stock amplified system (Shaker or B&O) you don't route the speaker wires from the after market amplifier back to the CAR-AV harness.
In the case of a Shaker or B&O you have to rewire the speakers if you don't want to cut the stock speaker wires at the stock amplifiers location.

Better option for an amplified system would be the Maestro AR (limited choice of amps) or a DSR1, both with the HRN-AR-FO3 harness.

 

[Matti777]

Thanks Peter. For $500 for a DSR1 and harness I might look at building another harness to jumper the amp and connect to the factory speaker connectors or perhaps just run new wires.

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