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Must-have suspension upgrades?

PoppinJ

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Camber plates would be a great next mod. Supprised no one had recommended it. For the rear, Steeda bushing supports are pretty cheap, BMR lockout, Steeda alignment dowles. All good options and fairly cheap if you do in the install yourself.
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Bluemustang

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My must have mods (YMMV):

-BMR CB005
-BMR or GT350 front sway bar
-Steeda lateral arms/bumpsteer
-RLCA bearings
-FP toe knuckle bearing
-Rear shock mounts
-CC plates

I have all this and more, but if I had to do it again in addition to springs/dampers, that would be my list.
 

Roadway 5.0

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There is different version of the kit though the general is: MPN: 555-4915 But there is also the more expensive option which Bumpsteer kit (555-8133) + STEEDA S550 MUSTANG FRONT CONTROL ARMS (LATERAL AND TENSION LINKS KIT) (555-4909) So my question is is the 555-4915 enough or do I need the Lateral and tension links kit with bearings (555-4909) ?

What you think and most importantly what you have on your car ?
I suggest getting the whole kit. Your big choice will be between bearings versus stiffer bushings; I chose bushings because I drive in salted-road winters. If you’re in a warm climate I think bearings would be a great avenue.
 

AequitasVeritas

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I spoke with Kelly at BMR at what some of the best value suspension upgrades were. He is one of the track guys that has a lot of experience with suspensions.

For a long time the BMR CB005 Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit was the best thing you could get to keep the rear under control. But now he says that the combination of the CB762 IRS Bracing System and CB010 Level 1 Cradle Lockout Kit is a better way to go.

He also recommended the CBK760 Front Radius Rod and BK081 Lower Control Arm bearing kits.
 

Grimreaper

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I miss the simplicity of polly bushings in the subframe and dif solving this in the rear. Just sucks at the nvh once you touch the diff and now we know the subframe cuts up poly and delrin.
Bet aluminum in the subframe and 50 to 60 durometer in the diff would negate any additional bracing needed.
 

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Bluemustang

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I miss the simplicity of polly bushings in the subframe and dif solving this in the rear. Just sucks at the nvh once you touch the diff and now we know the subframe cuts up poly and delrin.
Bet aluminum in the subframe and 50 to 60 durometer in the diff would negate any additional bracing needed.
The cradle lockout by itself is probably good enough for all but the fastest guys pushing on track. I don't think bushing replacements are really needed vs. what the cradle lockout gives you.
 

SidewaysMike

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Start with the Steeda rear upper shock mounts. I did these last after pretty much everything else and it still made a huge difference. I recommend you start here and see what an improvement they make.
 

boB

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A stock PP2 set a time at VIR that was faster than anything costing up to 3x as much. I would do what PP2 does.
 

Prokiller

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i have a PP2 so it's not apples to apples with you, but i can say the steeda stop the hop starter kit was a significantly noticeable difference. really planted the rear on an already great setup.
 

Burkey

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After going very deep into the rabbit hole, I'd say the rear LCA bearings are the most underrated mod for suspension. They utterly transform how the car changes directions and grips on power. Rides better too.
Yup. Everything else is nice but THIS is THE most significant upgrade you can make.
Far too overlooked.
 

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Aubrey

Aubrey

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Thanks for all the input, I eventually decided to do a big upgrade and went with Shockworks Coilovers, Whiteline sway bars and rear toe and vertical links.

The ride quality is firm, but comfortable. Overall the handling and traction is superb, a significant improvement on the Ford Track Handling Pack.

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Bluemustang

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@Aubrey - never seen those. Do they publish the spring rates? Glad you are enjoying them!
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