How many have disconnected the center speaker?

[GTP]

If there is no bass sent to the rear deck speakers, then why bother putting in 6.5's to begin with? The rear deck speakers in the 2018 base model are much better than the older 2015-16 models that came with magnets the size of golf balls. Now they look to be about 6-8oz, more like a regular 2-way speaker.

Exactly. Attempting to install the 7" woofers is when I discovered that there is no bass signal.

Not only that but there are many other openings cut into the rear deck sheet metal, which allows any bass to "self cancel" anyway.

So no matter what the quality of the woofers there, the whole thing is pointless given the compromised image, signal, carpeting, and openings.

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[Condor1970]

Exactly. Attempting to install the 7" woofers is when I discovered that there is no bass signal.

Not only that but there are many other openings cut into the rear deck sheet metal, which allows any bass to "self cancel" anyway.

So no matter what the quality of the woofers there, the whole thing is pointless given the compromised image, signal, carpeting, and openings.

How did you discover there was no signal?

Is there something in the programming that activate it?

I read some guys using Forscan said there is something they check off to get a full signal to the speakers for tapping off the rear deck and adding a sub below 30Hz.. Not sure how true that is though.

Also, if I put in some better rear 2-way 6.5's, would covering those extra holes in the deck be an appropriate course of action to maximize the rear bass production?

 

[GTP]

How did you discover there was no signal?

Is there something in the programming that activate it?

I cheated. I could tell by listening and minimal cone motion from a woofer I was very familiar with.

Keep in mind that manufacturers don't want to spend money on damping materials required to eliminate rattes and buzzes. This is how they get away with wimpy rear deck woofers - they aren't sent bass anyway.

I really wanted to inject test signals from my own loudspeaker analyzer with microphone but there was no analog input after the 2015 car.

I read some guys using Forscan said there is something they check off to get a full signal to the speakers for tapping off the rear deck and adding a sub below 30Hz.. Not sure how true that is though.

Also, if I put in some better rear 2-way 6.5's, would covering those extra holes in the deck be an appropriate course of action to maximize the rear bass production?

Yes use Forscan to get bass but I don't know how to do that.

Yes plug up holes with foam rubber. But you should verify you have bass signal before you do anything else.

My idea for my 2016 car was to move the rear deck cables over to the front speaker terminals, for full range. Then install a high level input amp in the trunk to power better deck woofers (or subwwofer(s)).

I was fed up by then. Ultimately I upgraded the system by getting a 2019 with B&O, but it still sucked as I knew it would. (I accepted the stereo in order to get the other required options.)

 

[Condor1970]

I cheated. I could tell by listening and minimal cone motion from a woofer I was very familiar with.

Keep in mind that manufacturers don't want to spend money on damping materials required to eliminate rattes and buzzes. This is how they get away with wimpy rear deck woofers - they aren't sent bass anyway.

I really wanted to inject test signals from my own loudspeaker analyzer with microphone but there was no analog input after the 2015 car.



Yes use Forscan to get bass but I don't know how to do that.

Yes plug up holes with foam rubber. But you should verify you have bass signal before you do anything else.

My idea for my 2016 car was to move the rear deck cables over to the front speaker terminals, for full range. Then install a high level input amp in the trunk to power better deck woofers (or subwwofer(s)).

I was fed up by then. Ultimately I upgraded the system by getting a 2019 with B&O, but it still sucked as I knew it would. (I accepted the stereo in order to get the other required options.)

I just read in another thread that the Premium 9-12 speaker stereos have the rear signal cut out, and that the Base Model stereo is easiest to upgrade because it has full signal on all 4 channels. I wonder if this is true, and how to figure that out.

 

[StangTime]

I just disconnected the dash speaker. What a difference for the better. The sound is now tolerable and I think all I may need now is a subwoofer and a change of tweeters.

I didn't need to lift the top dash panel or remove the dash speaker. Once I got the gauges out I was able to reach inside and unplug the speaker. Then I zip tied the connector against the wire harness so it wouldn't flop around.

The connector is to the right of the speaker magnet on a bracket. The connector has a locking tab on the right side. Press the tab and you can slide the plug out by pushing it away from you. It will then be free and your ears will rejoice.

 

[JackImpact]

I just disconnected the dash speaker. What a difference for the better. The sound is now tolerable and I think all I may need now is a subwoofer and a change of tweeters.

I didn't need to lift the top dash panel or remove the dash speaker. Once I got the gauges out I was able to reach inside and unplug the speaker. Then I zip tied the connector against the wire harness so it wouldn't flop around.

The connector is to the right of the speaker magnet on a bracket. The connector has a locking tab on the right side. Press the tab and you can slide the plug out by pushing it away from you. It will then be free and your ears will rejoice.

How do you remove the gauges?

 

[StangTime]

How do you remove the gauges?

By gauges I meant the panel with the AC vents and the gauges. I didn't have a trim removal tool. Just used my hands. Here's an example. Starts at 19 seconds in.

 

[TripleM]

I got rid of mine when I added amps and a DSP using I datalink harness.

When doing like this with the DSR and harness, to an amp, Jl Audio amp is only 70 watt per channel - Do I need to run all new speaker wire from the new amps, or could I use this existing wires off of the Factory harness?

 

[Moonhowl]

I did. I did it the right way, by disconnecting the connector at the speaker, in case the next owner wants to restore it. Big improvement. I now have stereo.

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