Well. That’s not good

[MikeyPee]

Any idea what may have caused this? It’s the main power fuse for my FORE system. The fuse is intact, but the housing melted like a mother

Obviously there’s no fuel pressure lol

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[MikeyPee]

Almost looks like there was a short to ground while the car was off. The terminal that is scorched is on the battery conductor section.

 

[F1scamp]

Something shorted or failed, it got hot, and the fuse is too big or faulty so it didnt pop is my guess.

 

[MikeyPee]

Something shorted or failed, it got hot, and the fuse is too big or faulty so it didnt pop is my guess.

Maybe it got hot enough for the plastic to combust. It’s been in 100s where I live. That doesn’t make sense tho. The fuse is the unit that came with the kit; pretty sure it has the proper rating

 

[Bald Menace]

heat in an electrical connection is caused by resistance. that looks like a bad connection. I see this exact thing all the time with commercial HVAC equipment and bad electrical connections.

 

[MikeyPee]

heat in an electrical connection is caused by resistance. that looks like a bad connection. I see this exact thing all the time with commercial HVAC equipment and bad electrical connections.

Maybe the guy who did the install didn’t solder that contact properly


That be my dumb ass

 

[MikeyPee]

Makes sense, because resistors get hot as hell.

Gonna replace all terminal ends with pin connectors and be done with it

 

[Jay-rod427]

A high amperage fuse like that can get quite hot without popping. Also I would never solder, or tin the cable ends on anything personally. Makes the wire stiff, and corrodes easily.

 

[Jay-rod427]

Do you run more than 1 pump all the time?

 

[Brent Davis]

Maybe the guy who did the install didn’t solder that contact properly

My car cut off once and the fuse was fine too. Took the shitty Allen screw insert junk out, soldered each end and reinserted so that the setscrew clamped down to the wire but with solid copper/solder. Mine has never melted like that though and mine too is Fore. Good luck man.

 

[MyLilPony]

The new controllers from Fore do not require and you should not use solder. So check that first. Looks like a bad ground or you could have a cut in your power cable that is grounding. Had a friend with the same issue and it was a mixture of bad gound and poor power connection to the FC3 controller.

 

[MikeyPee]

A high amperage fuse like that can get quite hot without popping. Also I would never solder, or tin the cable ends on anything personally. Makes the wire stiff, and corrodes easily.

Yeah. I soldered all the power connections, per the directions. Gonna pull all the power cables and use pin connectors.

Do you run more than 1 pump all the time?

Yes. If that were the issue, wouldn’t it have come up before now? Maybe I’ll consider a Hobbes (sp.?) switch

My car cut off once and the fuse was fine too. Took the shitty Allen screw insert junk out, soldered each end and reinserted so that the setscrew clamped down to the wire but with solid copper/solder. Mine has never melted like that though and mine too is Fore. Good luck man.

I’ll figure it out. I have no friggin choice : /

Thanks bro!

The new controllers from Fore do not require and you should not use solder. So check that first. Looks like a bad ground or you could have a cut in your power cable that is grounding. Had a friend with the same issue and it was a mixture of bad found and poor power connection to the FC3 controller.

The ground is solid; already been through that nightmare. Like I said: gonna replace everything, crimp some pin connectors on, and heat shrink the connections. Should be good after that

 

[MikeyPee]

Is the wire CCA or solid copper? If you cut it and the end is silver it is CCA.

CCA will expand and contract. That’s the main reason they don’t use is in small aluminum wire anymore in construction.

Make sure to also put dieletric grease inside the fuse block ends.

Some don’t like soldiered ended but in my experience as long as i use grease on it, I don’t get corrosion. ALWAYS soldier ends when using CCA.

It was solid copper

 

[Burkey]

As an A-grade electrician/electrical contractor/linesman/high-voltage cable jointer (22,000v), I’m going to tell you this....
It’s actually against the wiring rules in Australia to solder a cable that’s being inserted into a “tunnel style” connector like you have there.
The reasoning is that copper is quite soft, allowing the screw to indent the cable, making a good connection and allowing for the expansion and contraction that occurs as the amps climb up and down.
I was at a house only a few months ago where the entire earthing system failed because the dick-brain sparky had soldered the main earth connection in a tunnel terminal....
In short, soldered ends are shit in this situation.
You need a bootlace ferrule.
Like this:

 

[MikeyPee]

As an A-grade electrician/electrical contractor/linesman/high-voltage cable jointer (22,000v), I’m going to tell you this....
It’s actually against the wiring rules in Australia to solder a cable that’s being inserted into a “tunnel style” connector like you have there.
The reasoning is that copper is quite soft, allowing the screw to indent the cable, making a good connection and allowing for the expansion and contraction that occurs as the amps climb up and down.
I was at a house only a few months ago where the entire earthing system failed because the dick-brain sparky had soldered the main earth connection in a tunnel terminal....
In short, soldered ends are shit in this situation.
You need a bootlace ferrule.
Like this:

Thanks for the advice my man. Appreciate the experts chiming in

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