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VMP Triple Pass, Fans are pushing air.

Chainsaw

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Just installed a VMP triple pass HE. The fans are pushing air instead of pulling air. The two wires that are going to each fan are blue and black. I'm getting power to the blue wire. Can someone here confirm if this is correct?
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If they are pushing instead of pulling then they are wired in backwards regardless of color, just swap the pins on the connectors to the fans
 
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Kona 18

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Chainsaw

Chainsaw

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Perhaps the fans are wired correctly, and the fan blades were assembled backwards? I need to pull the H/E and find out exactly whats going on.
 

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ugstang17

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^^^^ I've only seen that on a custom built squirrel cage fan blower. Its possible the fans were mounted backwards and if that is the case it should be able to be confirmed by locating the air flow marking that are on every fan I have ever used or replaced in various applications. You have placed a tissue in front of the heat exchanger and verified that the tissue away from the h.e. as it is mounted on the car vice pulling in up against the coil correct? Personally I would ditch the fans altogether. VMP does not offer the triple pass with fans on their entry level VMP blower packages. I ran the VMP triple pass on my 14 and had great success with it, however I am not convinced that the fans helped any at all at lower speeds or sitting in place. I have a Whipple OS'd HE ready to go on my car since I was unable at the time of purchase get VMP to sell me theirs without the fans. I seek to advertise less by not having the fans. Now VMP offers the fanless HE as well.
 
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Chainsaw

Chainsaw

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^^^^ I've only seen that on a custom built squirrel cage fan blower. Its possible the fans were mounted backwards and if that is the case it should be able to be confirmed by locating the air flow marking that are on every fan I have ever used or replaced in various applications. You have placed a tissue in front of the heat exchanger and verified that the tissue away from the h.e. as it is mounted on the car vice pulling in up against the coil correct? Personally I would ditch the fans altogether. VMP does not offer the triple pass with fans on their entry level VMP blower packages. I ran the VMP triple pass on my 14 and had great success with it, however I am not convinced that the fans helped any at all at lower speeds or sitting in place. I have a Whipple OS'd HE ready to go on my car since I was unable at the time of purchase get VMP to sell me theirs without the fans. I seek to advertise less by not having the fans. Now VMP offers the fanless HE as well.
Thanks for your input. Yes, I put a piece of paper in front and it blows it away. I really would like to run the fans, even if it's just a small amount in traffic. I heard they are effective running them in the pits between runs. I've got an 18 with a Roush blower with the small I/C. I need every bit of cooling I can get.
 

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They draw a lot of current. Keep that in mind. 15 amps each minimum. I never ran mine in the pits because of that. In fact any time I flashed the tune I pulled the fuses to keep them from pulling the voltage down during the flash as a precautionary. I was going to put them on switches but Travis at VMP told me not to worry about it. I wished later on that I had. It's nice to be able to toggle them on/off as you wish. A big ice tank like the one they offer (though a bit pricey for my liking) is a great way to get those IAT's down as well. One of the guys I run with relocated his battery to the trunk and placed his tank in that spot. The fans do help in the staging lanes if you have to sit a while. Mine did well during NMRA True Street in 95 degree weather. The temps were up but they stayed well below 135 which is when the tune would start pulling timing for high IAT's. I ran 60/40 water to coolant in the tank and nothing else special. Wanted to keep it as simple as possible. Once rolling down the track at WOT the IAT temps dropped quick. Lost all of my datalogs on that setup or I would provide you some 411 factual numbers.
 
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Chainsaw

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They draw a lot of current. Keep that in mind. 15 amps each minimum. I never ran mine in the pits because of that. In fact any time I flashed the tune I pulled the fuses to keep them from pulling the voltage down during the flash as a precautionary. I was going to put them on switches but Travis at VMP told me not to worry about it. I wished later on that I had. It's nice to be able to toggle them on/off as you wish. A big ice tank like the one they offer (though a bit pricey for my liking) is a great way to get those IAT's down as well. One of the guys I run with relocated his battery to the trunk and placed his tank in that spot. The fans do help in the staging lanes if you have to sit a while. Mine did well during NMRA True Street in 95 degree weather. The temps were up but they stayed well below 135 which is when the tune would start pulling timing for high IAT's. I ran 60/40 water to coolant in the tank and nothing else special. Wanted to keep it as simple as possible. Once rolling down the track at WOT the IAT temps dropped quick. Lost all of my datalogs on that setup or I would provide you some 411 factual numbers.
The spec sheet says the amp draw is 7.8 to 8.2 for each fan. There is a 25 amp fuse for both fans. Maybe they are using more efficient motors now. I'm running a Pierburg CWA 100 brushless pump that draws 8.5 amps. I always use a booster battery when swapping tunes. I learned my lesson with my old 05 3 valve.
 

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You are correct. My mind lapsed. It's 15 amps total. Plus the draw of the pump. Sorry for that. I did that update on the 14 in 2016.
 

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Well I removed the H/E. The part# for the fans was correct. The fan blade orientation was correct. Put jumper leads on both fans, they spin backwards. The fans are wired backwards. I go to NAPA to get the tool to disassemble the connector. They no got. I can pick it up at 7 tomorrow morning. This is after I had relocated the inlet and outlet. With the one size fits all VMP H/E I would have had to run about 8 1/2 feet of 3/4" hose. The more hose that you use, adds resistance and slows the flow down. I should be done with this project tomorrow. This weekend it's DSS axles and BMR anti hop stuff. I hope it goes smoother than this H/E install.
 

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Next step...higher flow pump. That is where you really start making the most of that HE. VMP has one of the best priced units out there at the moment. I plan on doing that as well when I put in my OS Whipple HE. Probably won't be until fall at this point.
 
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Chainsaw

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Next step...higher flow pump. That is where you really start making the most of that HE. VMP has one of the best priced units out there at the moment. I plan on doing that as well when I put in my OS Whipple HE. Probably won't be until fall at this point.
Here's a little known secret in the Mustang community. I installed a Pierburg CWA 100 pump. This is the big brother to the Pierburg CWA 50 that is used in the 13-14 GT500's. The CWA 100 is the same physical size as the CWA 50 but it spins 1000 more RPM's and pumps about 2 GPM more than the GT500 pump. The CWA 100 pump is used by Mercedes Benz in their AWG cars. Also the pump is $56.00 cheaper than the GT500 pump @ VMP. Win, win with a grin.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-pierburg-parts/auxiliary-water-pump/0005000486~p/

https://www.tecomotive.com/en/products/CWA100.html
 

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Here's a little known secret in the Mustang community. I installed a Pierburg CWA 100 pump. This is the big brother to the Pierburg CWA 50 that is used in the 13-14 GT500's. The CWA 100 is the same physical size as the CWA 50 but it spins 1000 more RPM's and pumps about 2 GPM more than the GT500 pump. The CWA 100 pump is used by Mercedes Benz in their AWG cars. Also the pump is $56.00 cheaper than the GT500 pump @ VMP. Win, win with a grin.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-pierburg-parts/auxiliary-water-pump/0005000486~p/

https://www.tecomotive.com/en/products/CWA100.html
That is the pump at VMP to which I was referring.
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