Engine/Transmission Plate Noise FIX!

[DCShelby]

Thanks!

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[DCShelby]

Plate ordered and on the way.

 

[MustangNY]

I dont understand how there is no TSB yet for this when Ford clearly changed the part number and now its coated in rubber.

 

[DCShelby]

I’m taking it in Tuesday next week. The regional rep wants to chat with me. The service writer told him that they were unable to replicate it. So I will take him on a 30 minute drive in the heat till the fluttering starts. But yes, the fact that the new part is entirely coated in a rubber material shows they know the problem exists.

 

[Tomster]

I'd just get some dynamat. That's my plan.

 

[Frank.Herbst]

Ford has recognized that it is a problem. The latest revision of it is coated in a black rubberized substance.

Can you post the engineering number that is stamped on the plate. Its viewable when looking up at the side of the plate facing the back of the oil pan. Of you don't have access to looking up can you post the part number on your work order? My new plate is not rubber coated.
Thanks.

 

[Droopy1592]

That isn't the latest revision. The one the dealer put on the car during my engine replacement is completely coated in the black rubberized substance.

Dynamat works best so your drivetrain doesn't have to be disassembled to replace it.

anyone got the part number for this

 

[Tomster]

anyone got the part number for this

I bought some of that dyna mat. I haven't got around to putting it on yet.

 

[Droopy1592]

FR3Z7007B

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/ford-replaced-my-cyl-block-rear-plate.126294/

apparently there’s an even newer version

 

[fsujmm]

Can anyone post a picture of their plate with dynomat on it? Im confused how I would go about doing this at home?

 

[DCShelby]

There is a thread here that shows it

 

[Shift]

My rattle got much worse after they replaced the clutch. Might have been possible for them to replace the plate with the new version, but no ETA on parts availability, and I just wanted the car out of the dealership already.

Had a chance to finally apply some dynamat to it, and it's reduced the rattle by about 85%, which is perfectly fine with me. Even with everything bolted properly, you can still flex the plate if you touch it at the very bottom with just your finger, so I'm not surprised I haven't completely eliminated the rattle can noise. Just an inherent flaw in the design.

 

[NoXiDe]

Which is the dynamat you used? I attached lead tape to it and it somewhat helped. Did you just slap whatever you could inside of it by using your finger or did you attach it to the outside?

 

[Shift]

Which is the dynamat you used? I attached lead tape to it and it somewhat helped. Did you just slap whatever you could inside of it by using your finger or did you attach it to the outside?

I went with the thinner version, I figured I could always layer it if I had enough room.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dynamat-...m-msg-id=5dab0a66-3384-47ab-b22b-5fc9f0328d66

This was way more than I needed. The main piece that I cut out was 7"x2" applied right to the center of it, and I applied it with just my finger. Since the butyl is very malleable, I made sure to smooth/crush the butyl along the edges. There was a small bit of area that you could apply a small triangular piece right above the bottom left and right bolts, so I put a piece there.

Basically just stuck it on wherever I could. I ended up doubling up on the 7"x2" piece. Unless you've got fat fingers, you can fit your fingers in there fine. I could easily throw on a couple more layers, but I felt it was sufficient. If I'm ever under the car again, I may just do that. Hope this helps.

 

[NoXiDe]

cool, i did this with the lead tape suggested from another member but it's still there so ill try this next. ill just slap it over the lead tape i assume it's really sticky like VHD stuff

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