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Seeking advice for suspension upgrades on a stock EBPP

Texstang

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Hello, I have a 2016 Ecoboost PP that I use as a daily driver, roughly 60/40 highway/city mix. Roads aren't the best quality in my area, but everyone says that where they're from (I don't envy you guys up north). I'm not looking to track the car, just looking to improve on some points I list below.

Current Setup:
  1. Stock EBPP suspension, ~50k miles. Alignment was done on the car by a shop about 6 months ago. I can grab a pic of the alignment specs if needed.
  2. 19x9 (square setup) GTPP takeoff rims on 255/55/R19 Continental Extreme Contact Sport tires. I run the tire pressures at the factory 32 psi spec when cold. Unfortunately I know the rims are pretty heavy - if I were to do it again I would've gotten something lighter, but I got a great deal on these.

Complaints:
  1. The car feels bouncy in certain situations, mainly when there is a hump in the road or uneven grade. I'm not flying through raised intersections at 60 mph or anything, but when traveling over any small humps or crests, the car feels like it doesn't have enough dampening. When I initially go onto the hump, the car feels very floaty, then bounces around a lot. When I come off of the hump, the car feels like it just falls back onto the road.
  2. and I'm not very confident when going over road imperfections at speed, particularly when turning. I'm not sure exactly how to describe it, but it feels like the suspension isn't reacting quick enough, and the car doesn't feel very stable, and bounces around a lot. I used to drive an '05 Ranger which was very light in the rear and had the same, although much more severe, feeling.
  3. Not too much of a complaint, but somewhat symptomatic of the first issue: When I'm either accelerating and upshift, or am decelerating to a stop, the weight transfer causes the nose to move around quite a bit. Of course I would expect this to be the case in pretty much any car, but it feels like an awful lot sometimes.
Here are some pictures of some areas I encounter regularly that illustrate some of the conditions where the car exhibits the first and second issues. Bonus points if anybody in Houston knows where these are.

8xFLJLj.jpg

- This picture shows an area of 40 mph roadway (traffic flowing at 45-50 usually) where the road has been patched, creating a small hump in the road about 2 car-lengths long. Note the area in the red circle showing the road in relation to the curb, which I estimate is about 6 inches high. It's hard to see in the picture, but the entire roadway, including the curb, has a slight upward slope in the patched section. I'm guessing this is around 3-4 inches or so. The area in the blue circle close to the crest has about an inch or so of clearance against the top of the curb, so I'm guessing the total elevation change is about 8 inches in total over approximately one car-length, after which the road appears to return to its pre-patch height. Going over this at 40 mph the car feels very bouncy, and once over the crest, it falls back down harshly as if the dampers aren't providing much support at all. I avoid this lane if possible and will slow down to about 30 if I'm in it.

o464DgB.jpg

- This picture shows an area of 50 mph roadway (traffic usually flows 55 or so) where the road has developed ripples. It's difficult to tell by the picture, but the ripples in the highlighted section are consistent across the road, so what you see on the curb is the same on the actual road. This section is at the bottom of a small downhill grade after which the road forms an uphill grade as you can see in the picture. Going over the ripples at 50-55 in the slight turn, the car bounces like a sedan from the 1980's (ok, it's not that bad, but you get the picture). The rear of the car doesn't feel very planted in this section. When I encounter roads like this with a sharper turn, the stability issue is amplified.

I'm pretty happy otherwise with the car. There doesn't seem to be too much body roll and the car feels decently planted when cornering in smooth turns. I don't often launch the car. It's mostly stock power-wise, and I don't have significant complaints about wheel hop. The brakes are pretty adequate for my use, and if I upgrade, it'll be separate to the suspension and I'll likely get a used set of 6 piston GTPP calipers/rotors if I go that route.

Goals:
  1. My primary goal is to Improve the feel and stability when encountering road crests/humps and imperfections, and improve the rear stability when encountering these through a curved section of roadway.
  2. Maintain or if possible improve the ride quality overall. I realize that's a tall order, and usually handling comes at the expense of comfort, but I don't want something extremely harsh or jarring. I'm daily driving this car, and don't plan on taking it to the track. Otherwise the most action it will see is when I take it on semi-annual trips to the Texas hill country and take it out on some twisty roads.
  3. I'm fine with lowering the car and actually like the look, but would prefer not to drop it more than 0.5". I don't want to cringe and worry when entering a raised parking lot or driveway.
  4. I'd like to stick to a budget of around $1,000. I can go up to $1,250 if you guys can convince me.
  5. I'd like to be able to do as much of the work as possible myself. I have a floor jack and jackstands with a decent set of hand tools, but don't have much experience in suspension work.
  6. I realize I'll need an alignment once I upgrade. With the parts you recommend, would I be able to get an alignment that preserves tire wear?

Thanks
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BmacIL

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@Texstang

You’re impressively detailed oriented (nice brief) and good shocks/struts will mostly solve your problems, so I would recommend adjustable dampers in your case. You can test and tune these until you get exactly where you want with ride quality and handling.

A pair of 200lb/in front and 800lb/in rear minimum drop springs from Steeda would be a good pairing.
 

NightmareMoon

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+1 to the above. What you described can be addressed by dampers for sure. Shocks don’t last forever, they do need to be replaced eventually, and at 50k miles your are not as stiff as when they were new.

Springs might be fun while you have the suspension apart to install shocks, but shocks are the main issue.
 
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Texstang

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@Texstang

You’re impressively detailed oriented (nice brief) and good shocks/struts will mostly solve your problems, so I would recommend adjustable dampers in your case. You can test and tune these until you get exactly where you want with ride quality and handling.

A pair of 200lb/in front and 800lb/in rear minimum drop springs from Steeda would be a good pairing.
+1 to the above. What you described can be addressed by dampers for sure. Shocks don’t last forever, they do need to be replaced eventually, and at 50k miles your are not as stiff as when they were new.

Springs might be fun while you have the suspension apart to install shocks, but shocks are the main issue.

Thanks, I appreciate the advice. I'm definitely thinking new dampers and springs are the way to go. I'm looking at the Steeda minimum drop springs with the adjustable dampers. Do you guys have any thoughts on the Steeda Active dampers?

As far as installation goes, I've been doing some reading and I'm thinking it may be worthwhile to invest in some jacking rails to make things a bit easier (I've been meaning to do this for a while). I think the only specialty tool I lack is a spring compressor, but I'll check with the local parts store as they probably lend them out. I have a decent torque wrench and pretty much all of the hand tools I think need, but unfortunately no impact gun at the moment.

A few more questions:
  1. How critical are the rear shock mounts? Should I consider upgrading these? I see that they allow me to avoid drilling the stock ones. Other than that with my intended use, are the stock ones sufficient in terms of strength?
  2. How critical are new bump stops? They seem fairly cheap, so I wouldn't mind throwing them in if it's worthwhile.
  3. While I have the car in the air and somewhat disassembled, are there any components at my mileage that I should take a close look at that may need replacing? The only things that I could think of were brakes (still have some life left) and wheel bearings (I didn't feel any play when I rotated my tires recently). Let me know if there's anything I should look into.
  4. I've been reading the installation guides for some parts, and they don't seem to mention anything about re-using fasteners. Do you guys have any thoughts or are the stock units fine?
  5. If I go with the adjustable dampers + minimum drop springs, is there anything that would prevent me from getting a decent alignment done? I assume that I would want the same specs as stock?
By the way I found my alignment sheet that I mentioned in my original post. Apologies for the quality of the picture, hopefully it's legible. Thanks again.
bdH3BJz.jpg
 

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NightmareMoon

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Steeda minim drop springs are barely more spring rate than PP springs. If you’re looking at those, I’d give the GT350 and GT350R springs a hard look, as they’re actually more sporty than the Streeda minimum drop.

Shock mounts are entirely elective and optional. I did them, but negligible concrete benefits IMHO.

Just cut down your stock bumpstops.

Generally inspect everything.

To check the hubs you need to rock them pretty hard. These ain’t no Miatas, it takes some force to get a bad hub to move. I’ve noticed them more from auditory tells and handling behavior than from actually rocking them by hand.

Some fasteners are not reused. The big shock/strut to spindle bolts are the main ones (they’re torque to yield so replace when you disassemble)

If its only a street car then yes, no other alignment parts required.
 

Roadway 5.0

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Thanks, I appreciate the advice. I'm definitely thinking new dampers and springs are the way to go. I'm looking at the Steeda minimum drop springs with the adjustable dampers. Do you guys have any thoughts on the Steeda Active dampers?
The Active dampers look like a perfect fit for a daily driver car; I can't say for sure how they would pair up with minimum drop springs but I'm sure a call to Steeda would clear things up.

As far as installation goes, I've been doing some reading and I'm thinking it may be worthwhile to invest in some jacking rails to make things a bit easier (I've been meaning to do this for a while).
I personally avoid adding weight to a car unless it gives some sort of performance gain, but then again I usually rent a lift. I can see the value in these if you are posting the car up on jack stands often.

I think the only specialty tool I lack is a spring compressor, but I'll check with the local parts store as they probably lend them out. I have a decent torque wrench and pretty much all of the hand tools I think need, but unfortunately no impact gun at the moment.
If you can rent an air compressor and impact it will make your life much easier. Those suspension bolts can get pretty stubborn, especially with more miles on the car.

1. How critical are the rear shock mounts? Should I consider upgrading these? I see that they allow me to avoid drilling the stock ones. Other than that with my intended use, are the stock ones sufficient in terms of strength?
Critical, no. Nice to have? Sure. Upgraded shock mounts allow for a simpler damper installation in many cases and do provide some relief from high frequency oscillations (the latter is why I installed them).

2. How critical are new bump stops? They seem fairly cheap, so I wouldn't mind throwing them in if it's worthwhile.
Get them. When you do hit the bump stops the world is a much better place; there is also no risk in undercutting the OEM stops when using the aftermarket solution.

3. While I have the car in the air and somewhat disassembled, are there any components at my mileage that I should take a close look at that may need replacing? The only things that I could think of were brakes (still have some life left) and wheel bearings (I didn't feel any play when I rotated my tires recently). Let me know if there's anything I should look into.
Brakes for sure. Also have a look at control arm bushings and inspect your front sway bar end links for warping/bending.

4. I've been reading the installation guides for some parts, and they don't seem to mention anything about re-using fasteners. Do you guys have any thoughts or are the stock units fine?
I played it safe and got new hardware for my installation.

5. If I go with the adjustable dampers + minimum drop springs, is there anything that would prevent me from getting a decent alignment done? I assume that I would want the same specs as stock?
You'll be good. You'll see a bit more camber in the front, but that's a good thing considering how conservative it is while stock.
 

BmacIL

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To check the hubs you need to rock them pretty hard. These ain’t no Miatas, it takes some force to get a bad hub to move.
Guess the one I just replaced was really bad then, since it didn't take much to rock it w/ the axle nut tight.
 

Radiation Joe

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Here's my two cents worth:
I have the GT350R springs installed front and rear with the Ford Performance Track shocks on an EBPP. I have the Steeda rear subframe lock-out kit with alignment sleeves. Also have the Steeda front camber plates and BMR rear shock mounts. All installed with stock bump stops (per Kelly's recommendation at BMR, which I am happy with).
Under most circumstances the ride is significantly improved, especially at speed. The car is just barely lower than stock, less than 1/2 inch drop. The only times the ride is worse than original is when traversing large bumps at slow speeds (railroad tracks, mainly). If I just increase my speed from 20mph to 30mph, ride over railroad tracks is better than stock. Bottoming of the suspension over bumps has been greatly reduced.
The springs and shocks work extremely well together. The rear lockout helped to reduce the vagueness in the rear end at the cost of a bit more road noise particularly at parking lot speeds. Very reasonable trade off in my mind. I am extremely happy with the spherical bearing rear shock mounts. Tremendous improvement in ride. Naturally, they improve the effectiveness of the shocks since they are removing essentially all of the play associated with the rubber mounts.
Hope this helps.
 
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Texstang

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Really appreciate the feedback guys. I'm getting a much better idea as to what I need.

Springs:
Steeda minim drop springs are barely more spring rate than PP springs. If you’re looking at those, I’d give the GT350 and GT350R springs a hard look, as they’re actually more sporty than the Streeda minimum drop.
Here's my two cents worth:
I have the GT350R springs installed front and rear with the Ford Performance Track shocks on an EBPP. Under most circumstances the ride is significantly improved, especially at speed. The car is just barely lower than stock, less than 1/2 inch drop.
- I'll have a look at the GT350 springs as well. I searched but couldn't find any info on the stock EB or EBPP spring rates (I'm guessing the EBPP is somewhere around 160-170 in the front and 700ish in the rear based on what I could see on the sticky sheet for the GT/GTPP). I see that the GT350/R spring rates were a bit more than the Steeda Minimum Drops, especially in the rear according to the sticky sheet. Good to know also that the GT350Rs are about the same amount of drop as the Steeda Minimum Drops. I'm not looking for something super stiff, so out of the two GT350/R, I'm more likely to consider the GT350 springs rather than the Rs. I assume the GT350/R springs provide about the same amount of drop. I also noted in another thread that the 2X of the rear left springs are needed due to the way the springs are wound.


Shock Mounts:
Shock mounts are entirely elective and optional. I did them, but negligible concrete benefits IMHO.
Critical, no. Nice to have? Sure. Upgraded shock mounts allow for a simpler damper installation in many cases and do provide some relief from high frequency oscillations (the latter is why I installed them).
I am extremely happy with the spherical bearing rear shock mounts. Tremendous improvement in ride. Naturally, they improve the effectiveness of the shocks since they are removing essentially all of the play associated with the rubber mounts.
- I think I'll probably go with the mounts if I end up having room in my budget after dampers/springs as they look like they'll take some of the guesswork and potential for error out of the installation.


Bump stops:
Just cut down your stock bumpstops.
Get them. When you do hit the bump stops the world is a much better place; there is also no risk in undercutting the OEM stops when using the aftermarket solution.
All installed with stock bump stops (per Kelly's recommendation at BMR, which I am happy with)
- I'll put the bump stops on the list, but lower in priority than the shock mounts if my budget allows. I would assume that with the stiffer GT350/R springs I would have less of a chance bottoming out than with the Steeda Minimum Drops, so I'll factor that into my decision and likely stick with the stock bump stops if I go with the GT350/R springs.


Misc/Other Parts:
I personally avoid adding weight to a car unless it gives some sort of performance gain, but then again I usually rent a lift. I can see the value in these if you are posting the car up on jack stands often.

If you can rent an air compressor and impact it will make your life much easier. Those suspension bolts can get pretty stubborn, especially with more miles on the car.
- Thanks, I'll probably hold off on the jacking rails unless I find a set on the classifieds that I can pick up cheap. I don't plan on putting the car up on stands much other than for maintenance, and it's not too big of a deal as it is now. I might pop down to my dad's and borrow his impact or just get one myself. Looking at some installation guides and posts on here, some of those fasteners look like a bear so I'll take all the help I can get.


Install/Post Install:
Generally inspect everything.

To check the hubs you need to rock them pretty hard. These ain’t no Miatas, it takes some force to get a bad hub to move. I’ve noticed them more from auditory tells and handling behavior than from actually rocking them by hand.

Some fasteners are not reused. The big shock/strut to spindle bolts are the main ones (they’re torque to yield so replace when you disassemble)

If its only a street car then yes, no other alignment parts required.
Brakes for sure. Also have a look at control arm bushings and inspect your front sway bar end links for warping/bending.

I played it safe and got new hardware for my installation.

You'll be good. You'll see a bit more camber in the front, but that's a good thing considering how conservative it is while stock.
- Thanks. I just changed the oil yesterday and I put some eyes on the control arms/bushings and the sway bar end links and they looked like they were in decent shape. I also checked the brakes and they have plenty of life left in them (too much to justify changing them now.). The rotors looked good, plenty of thickness, and the pads weren't close to the wear indicators. I'll be sure to note the camber when I have the post-install alignment done. Right now I have about -1 deg of negative camber on both sides. Would you say I should expect somewhere around -1.3 to -1.5 deg with that amount of drop?
 

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Radiation Joe

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I would not consider the GT350 springs. The GT350R springs will not raise the car, but the standard GT350 springs probably will raise an EBPP.
 

Bluemustang

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You could also consider the BMR Handling Springs (SP083). But really the GT350R springs should ride very well IMO.
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