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Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

GTP

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Has anyone successfully used 8” speakers in the doors OR the rear deck over the factory 6.5” - or is it not possible due to door depth and factory punched holes in rear deck?
I installed a pair of 18cm (7") woofers in the rear deck by fabbing some adapter rings out of 3/4" MDF, and gasketing the openings. It was kind of a hassle. Don't forget the drivers fire into thick carpeting on the rear deck, so don't expect too much. My opinion is to basically shut off the center and rear speakers, and then try to get a decent blend between the doors and the trunk sub. (Still working on my issues in my new 2019 with B&O.)
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ean611

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Is it possible to use a true 3-way component system on the front doors with the factory amp? I have the 9 speaker premium system. Looking for speaker replacements but don't want to go all in on amps and wiring. Can I just use one of the factory speaker wires as the signal/feed?

If not, I was looking at the Infinity Kappa 300m as a replacement 3.5 mid-range speaker. Will it fit? It says 1 3/4" depth, and I thought the max was 1.25"-1.5" I do see other guys on here claiming to be using it though.
If you do something crazy, like put a DSR1 into your car feeding into the stock amp (wiring diagram and parts to do this are in this thread on page 7), yes you can do this. You will need an EQ if you want a 3 way setup on a stock amp with good results.

I did: (All Hybrid Audio)
Clarus Tweeter (Imagine "crossover", just a filter for the tweeter 6dB/oct)
Legatia L3v2 x3 (all 3 inch drivers)
Unity U6 2 ohm (for doors)

it works "ok" with a flat EQ from the DSR1, and works decently after tuning.
 

ean611

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So I took some stuff apart, and found something interesting. For those that hate visible mods, the Rockford Fosgate PBR300X1 is about the same size as the stock sub amp.

See the mock up image. Just a thought if you, like me, hate amp racks, and want to go as stealth as possible.

Furthermore, this amp requires 30A fused power. The stock circuit is rated for 30A with a 30A fuse in the fuse box (fuse 5).
20190707_125332.jpg
20190707_125338.jpg
20190707_125453.jpg
 

StangTime

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I installed a pair of 18cm (7") woofers in the rear deck by fabbing some adapter rings out of 3/4" MDF, and gasketing the openings. It was kind of a hassle. Don't forget the drivers fire into thick carpeting on the rear deck, so don't expect too much. My opinion is to basically shut off the center and rear speakers, and then try to get a decent blend between the doors and the trunk sub. (Still working on my issues in my new 2019 with B&O.)
What is the difference if you are firing into the rear deck carpet or into the backs of the rear seats? The result is the same. As long as you can seal the rear deck to prevent the front wave from coming back around, and create that infinite baffle, it can work well and you have the benefit of not having a heavy box taking up trunk space. I will be looking into the infinite baffle option if I ever add subs.
 

Bsingh897

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Hey guys, I am new and I was wondering the best way to install my speakers. They are 200watts SKAR speakers and I wanted to tap into factory speaker but the gauge of the factory speakers are too small. Would it be ok to connect a higher gauge speaker wire to the factory ford speaker wire? Or is it best to run my own wire through the door?
 

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The factory wire gauge is fine
 

Canoman

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Has anyone successfully used 8” speakers in the doors OR the rear deck over the factory 6.5” - or is it not possible due to door depth and factory punched holes in rear deck?
Check this thread. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/my-custom-audio-build.29714/

You even commented in that thread. :wink:

He put 10" subs under the rear shelf in an IB config using some spacers. I have a couple of 8" subs I used in this manner in an old Maxima. I've contemplated doing the same in the Mustang, just haven't acted on it yet.
 

GTP

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1 or 2 IB subs on the rear shelf is the best idea of all and it's too bad Ford didn't do this.
A sub firing into carpet is no big deal because mid and treble aren't expected anyway.
Honestly if you could build a large panel that spans the width of the shelf and block off all those holes and then rig up 1 or 2 subs you'd be in business.
 

mikes2017gt

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Hey Guys,

Getting ready to install my own system; this thread has been an absolutely incredible source of info. I'll be posting a build thread but for now I'm gathering info. The only thing I'm unsure of are the Forscan mods to remove all signal processing, and output as high a voltage as possible (if that voltage one is even possible).

I bought the OBD port USB adaptor and I have a Forscan license code. I've never used Forscan before and am not sure where to even look or what the settings should be. I found two pieces of info in this thread and they sort of conflict.

This quote (from an awesome post!) states to change two lines:

727-01-01 xx5A xxxx xxxx
727-01-02 00xx
But this other post says to change just one line:

in the ACM tab
727-01-02 x*xx xx
0=EQ Selection #0, 1=EQ Selection #1, 2=EQ Selection #2, 3=EQ Selection #3, 4=EQ Selection #4, 5=EQ Selection #5, 6=EQ Selection #6, 7=EQ Selection
#7, 8=EQ Selection #8, 9=EQ Selection #9

change the noted *asterisk character to 0
Mine was set to 5

Would someone please provide me some guidance? I'll only be using the signal from the front outputs, and even though I don't think there's any processing on the front signals, I'd rather just have everything flat coming out of the amp. Thanks very much.
 
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StangTime

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Hey Guys,

Getting ready to install my own system; this thread has been an absolutely incredible source of info. I'll be posting a build thread but for now I'm gathering info. The only thing I'm unsure of are the Forscan mods to remove all signal processing, and output as high a voltage as possible (if that voltage one is even possible).

I bought the OBD port USB adaptor and I have a Forscan license code. I've never used Forscan before and am not sure where to even look or what the settings should be. I found two pieces of info in this thread and they sort of conflict.

This quote (from an awesome post!) states to change two lines:



But this other post says to change just one line:

in the ACM tab
727-01-02 x*xx xx
0=EQ Selection #0, 1=EQ Selection #1, 2=EQ Selection #2, 3=EQ Selection #3, 4=EQ Selection #4, 5=EQ Selection #5, 6=EQ Selection #6, 7=EQ Selection
#7, 8=EQ Selection #8, 9=EQ Selection #9

change the noted *asterisk character to 0
Mine was set to 5

Would someone please provide me some guidance? I'll only be using the signal from the front outputs, and even though I don't think there's any processing on the front signals, I'd rather just have everything flat coming out of the amp. Thanks very much.
For line level output you want :
727-01-01 xx59 F8x8 xxxx - Enables Line Level with Optional Subwoofer (Aux 1) and Front Center (Aux 2) Outputs Enabled*
727-01-02 00xx - Disables Factory EQ Processing THIS IS THE ONLY ONE TO CHANGE IF KEEPING THE FACTORY AMPLIFICATION
(ACM As-Built)

* This string breaks down as follows:
5 = Variable Line Level Audio Output
9 = Enable External Subwoofer (AUX 1) and Internal Amplifier (Aux 2) (0 - Disable)
F = Disable Open Speaker Circuit Detection (w/Active FM Radio Antenna - Otherwise use a D)
8 = Front Tweeters Present
8 = Aux 1 Type: Mono Subwoofer and Aux 2 Type: Front Center

If you are not using the factory installed subwoofer, the other settings for 9, F, 8, 8 are probably irrelevant. You just need line level out and no eq. This will send full range unmolested signals to your external amps.
 

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GEBRONI

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If I hadn't invested as much as I am right now in the amps and speakers, and knowing what I know now, I would definitely follow the route that you mentioned. I think you're on the right way. Replace the original speakers with Infinity speakers( Low impedance and high sensitivity) and add a stand alone subwoofer to add the bass and use the factory amp to drive the speakers. as far as the subwoofer, personally I went the spare tire subwoofer route. JBL has one, Cerwin Vega(VPAS12ST which I have) has one. As far as the signal you can grab the signal from the rear speakers run it to the high level input of the sub and grab the signal wire from the trunk as well( I believe it's a Blue-White wire).
The VPAS12ST fits flush in the spare tire of S550?
 

mikes2017gt

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Awesome! Thanks very much, @StangTime !

For line level output you want :
727-01-01 xx59 F8x8 xxxx - Enables Line Level with Optional Subwoofer (Aux 1) and Front Center (Aux 2) Outputs Enabled*
727-01-02 00xx - Disables Factory EQ Processing THIS IS THE ONLY ONE TO CHANGE IF KEEPING THE FACTORY AMPLIFICATION
(ACM As-Built)

* This string breaks down as follows:
5 = Variable Line Level Audio Output
9 = Enable External Subwoofer (AUX 1) and Internal Amplifier (Aux 2) (0 - Disable)
F = Disable Open Speaker Circuit Detection (w/Active FM Radio Antenna - Otherwise use a D)
8 = Front Tweeters Present
8 = Aux 1 Type: Mono Subwoofer and Aux 2 Type: Front Center

If you are not using the factory installed subwoofer, the other settings for 9, F, 8, 8 are probably irrelevant. You just need line level out and no eq. This will send full range unmolested signals to your external amps.
 

Emilbadal

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The VPAS12ST fits flush in the spare tire of S550?
Fits about 1/4" higher which is not a big deal. If you decide to get that, you will need some sort of adapter to stabilize the subwoofer because of the shape of the tie down in the trunk.I 3D Printed my adapter. You'll also need four rubber speaker feet to fully secure the subwoofer.
 

GEBRONI

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Fits about 1/4" higher which is not a big deal. If you decide to get that, you will need some sort of adapter to stabilize the subwoofer because of the shape of the tie down in the trunk.I 3D Printed my adapter. You'll also need four rubber speaker feet to fully secure the subwoofer.
I already ordered and was worried about that factory anchor for the spare tire ;-) did you use the built in LOC or after market LOC? The manual confusing states best performance RCA but if using built in LOC if no RCA from head. Benefit also no remote needed as build in LOC will turn amp on if signal is detected.
 

Emilbadal

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I already ordered and was worried about that factory anchor for the spare tire ;-) did you use the built in LOC or after market LOC? The manual confusing states best performance RCA but if using built in LOC if no RCA from head. Benefit also no remote needed as build in LOC will turn amp on if signal is detected.
Let me see if I can find my file for the adapter on my home PC later tonight. If you wanted, I can print one for you but that all depends on still having the file :D. Regarding the LOC, no I have the Speaker to RCA adapter from Hextall and I just converted the signal to low level through Forscan. I took that RCA signal back to the Subwoofer.
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