Bull's Jack-of-all-trades 2015 EB Premium PP

[Bull Run]

Spent about an hour or so enabling the line lock on the car as 2015-2017 didn't come with one (same for V6s).

Documented the process here as a guide for others: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/line-lock-enabled-on-non-gt.96154/page-6#post-2591279

Sponsored

 

[Bull Run]

An update on the new-to-me catch can...

Forgot to take a picture of the WOT line to the intake tube connection. It's still holding strong.

I installed a Radium PCV baffle and valve a while back to take care of the smoking-while-idling-for-a-while issue. Since the Radium PCV value comes with a standard hose barb, I made an adapter by cutting off the male push connection off of the OEM PCV value and attaching it to a rubber hose to use with the OEM style female connectors. It also worked with the JLT and UPR hoses but the excess length caused the hose to hang (hoses were pulled forward for this picture) and touch the steering wheel shaft. It didn't cause any issues but looked sloppy. I could've just shorted the hose going to the PCV valve but...

UPR hoses have 1/2" ID, which is much bigger than the PCV valve. Since the clean and WOT side hoses come with check valves, the existing PCV valve was no longer needed and thus became a bottleneck. So I ordered a 1/2" hose barb to 10 AN ORB fitting (left) to replace the PCV valve (right).

I cut the OEM style connector off of the UPR dirty side hose and attached it to the adapter fitting using a hose clamp.

Aside from a cleaner look, getting rid of the bottleneck should improve PCV evacuation.

 

[GuardEcoBeast]

Just an FYI I did the exact same thing on my car and I had a terrible whistling and vacuum suction noise at idle. Putting the pcv valve and an adapter fixed it.

 

[Bull Run]

Just an FYI I did the exact same thing on my car and I had a terrible whistling and vacuum suction noise at idle. Putting the pcv valve and an adapter fixed it.

I didn't notice any increase in noise since removing the PCV valve and folks that kept the OEM baffle usually gut the PCV valve to fix the smoking issue. I have the Airaid box with the cone filter so any increase in the intake noise should've been noticeable. It may be worth checking your UPR check valves with an air compressor, particularly the WOT hose side, as it should be closed during the idle as there should be much higher vacuum after the TB.

 

[GuardEcoBeast]

I put the radium pcv valve in and it fixed my problem.

 

[prostovovatt]

No problem, they are Advanti DST HY Hybris, 19x9.5, 40mm offset. Note that I had to get a 3mm spacer because there was a slight rubbing with the 4-piston calipers. Also, note that the wheel caps won't fit up front unless you have a set of wider spacers. I just left mine off. I was able to ditch the 3mm spacer once I upgraded to 6-piston Brembos.

Tires are 285/35 19's. 285's are widest recommended for these wheels.

Hyun,

Check my thread here

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/ordered-advanti-dst-svelo-20-inch-rims.126287/

I ordered Advanti DST Svelto rims on tire rack ,as the 20s were on clearance due to them missing a front rim. Let me know what you think of my choice with the Sumitomo HTR Z5 tires

 

[Bull Run]

Update on the Antigravity ATX-20 RE-START Battery situation: The battery's still doing great after its move back to the original location under the hood, despite 110+ degree days. AZ summers aren't kind to the OEM batteries as I bought this car with ~7,600 miles on it and Carfax showed that the OEM battery was replaced under warranty, and my wife's CRV's OEM battery only lasted about 1.5 years (also replaced under warranty). I'll see if this Antigravity battery outlasts OEM batteries in the heat. I also hardwired the charging port so I can just plug the charger into it rather than removing the battery cover and using the clips.

Background: Antigravity battery's Battery Management System (BMS) was shutting it down periodically (causes the car to run on the alternator only, which means the car loses all power once the engine's stopped). Waiting a few minutes and hitting the "restart" button on the battery usually restored the power. I thought it was due to Li-ion batteries being sensitive to heat, so I moved it to inside the cabin, by the passenger firewall. That didn't help with this issue, so I was looking into filing a warranty claim but Antigravity's site was updated to add a warning about using the "Restart" series with cars with Smart Charging.

I think the issue was that Smart Charging only charges the battery when it detects that the battery's being drained beyond a certain percentage. This may work fine for a lead-acid battery since its voltage steadily drops as it's being discharged, but not so for a li-ion battery that can maintain its voltage until it's near fully discharged. Since fully discharging a li-ion battery can kill it, the BMS probably kicked in to prevent a full discharge.

I found the following info via a quick Google search on disabling Smart Charging on Fords. These values also worked on my Mustang and haven't had a single issue since it was disabled.

"On a 15+ F150 and a Gen2 Fusion (that's sorta a 'Murrican Mondeo si?), it's:

Battery Monitoring System BCM
726-04-01 xxx2 xxxx xxxx Battery Monitoring System Enabled
726-04-01 xxx0 xxxx xxxx Battery Monitoring System Disabled"

 

[Bull Run]

Got a good deal on barely used Granatelli Xtreme Pro Series ignition coils. I doubt that I'll notice any differences but it doesn't hurt to have spare coil packs. I'll see if they'll help with preventing spark blowouts when plug gaps get wider due to wear.

 

[Bull Run]

Rewired the ground for the Snow WMI controller so I can manually turn it off as needed like the AEM controller that was previously installed (reused the switch). Since the failsafe doesn't trigger through the Snow controllers like the AEM one's, I had to add a separate switch for it, using a previously drilled hole for an LED warning light. Ended up going with a smaller switch since there isn't much of space behind that area.

 

[Bull Run]

G-LOC R10 (front) and R8 (rear) pads worked fine on the street (note that I don't drive in freezing temperatures) but they dust and squeal like crazy. While I can tolerate the squeals, my wife can't and she doesn't even drive or ride in the car (she says she can hear me coming from down the street.

So I decided to get a set of GS-1s for the street use and save the race pads for when I go to the track someday. G-LOC pads are compound compatible with each other so they can be swapped without having to sand down the rotors.

The race pads are on the top and showed very little wear with the street duty.

Not having to take the rotors off made the swap easy. GS-1s are silent, even when compared to the OEM pads that came with the Brembo calipers that squeal time to time. They have less initial bite but other than that, can't really tell any difference in performance for the street use.

 

[BeastAR]

Read your whole thread.... Enjoyed reading the constant improvement you've been doing to the car. Keep up the good work.

 

[2morrow]

Love this build. Thank you for the insightful tips on a lot of these modifications!

-Todd

 

[Bull Run]

Decided to go with MPS4Ses instead of Cup 2s as replacement tires for the 6GR wheels. While it was fun trying out the Cup 2s, I feel that 4Ses are better tires for street use as they seem to have almost as good traction while having less harshness and has less tramlining.

I'm driving more on highways now so decided to move away from the grill delete for some rock protection. Also installed a mount for the WMI pump and relocated the brake ducting on the driver's side to match the passenger side while I had the bumper cover off.

Bought a Snow pump mount that installing using the mounting bolts for the windshield washer fluid bottle. It looks and feels solid with a smooth finish.
https://www.nitrousexpress.com/Water-Methanol-Pump-Mount-For-15-up-Mustang.asp

Having the pump mounted on the splash shield worked fine but using a solid mount looks more "professional".

Relocating inlets for brake cooling ducts makes future bumper cover removals easier and...

...you can't even tell they are there with the lower grille installed.

Cut out the honeycombs on the sides to ensure that inlets get some air, of course.

Also cut out additional honeycombs for the air intake so there's a strigth path to the airbox.

 

[Bull Run]

Is it just me or did some of the post posts disappear? I thought I posted my updates on going to E85 but it's been a while since I posted so I don't remember.

Sponsored