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What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

Elvis66

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Removed the engine cover and installed a valve for the "Sound Symposer". I think I can tell the difference with the valve closed, the car is quieter inside (in active exhaust "quiet" mode).
The engine cover will go back on after I trim it some, here is an idea that does not involve too much work:
valve_20190701_124323.jpg

engine_20190701_124330.jpg


enginecover.jpg

So it may look like this when completed:
enginecover_new_20190701_124330.jpg
My suggestion...is you Really don't need thoes 10m nuts to hold down that engine cover ..just the the middle area for the intake .will be more then enough to hold it down
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ValidusTalon

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That looks very nice. Please let me know you start taking orders :crackup:

On a side note, you said that you've removed the under hood insulation. Have you had any issues with the hood getting too hot? I would like to do the same, to show off that pony, but am leary, as I don't want to bubble the paint or stripes on the hood.

If you were local I'd be happy to help a fellow enthusiast out, but otherwise my low tech pizza box template and test fit, curse, sand, test fit, rinse and repeat process might make it take waaaay too long for anything production grade :)

For the under hood insulation I read on this forum, read some more, asked at a few cars and coffee, and finally went for it and so far so good. I believe the general consensus is it's for sound deadening anyway.... if it got hot enough under there to bubble paint the engine is probably on fire and I have bigger problems.... or it'll be an excuse to try a sweet carbon fiber hood someday, I guess time will tell :) I did order a decal from Anchor Room for under there I'll post up in a few days (after I have a chance to install)... they were super easy to work with and quickly cranked out a custom order (you do need to email them for the under-hood decal as I don't think it's listed on their site)...
 

boB

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My suggestion...is you Really don't need thoes 10m nuts to hold down that engine cover ..just the the middle area for the intake .will be more then enough to hold it down
I was wondering about that and as I recall you have already reworked engine covers so your advice is good. :)
Btw, should we mention the main battery cable that is in the way of the strut tower brace that has to come off first? ;)
 

Elvis66

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I was wondering about that and as I recall you have already reworked engine covers so your advice is good. :)
Btw, should we mention the main battery cable that is in the way of the strut tower brace that has to come off first? ;)
Yes lol ..while I was doing all the modification to the engine cover I had to just put that tower brace out of the way for a while. If you look at this picture you see that I left the intake manifold mounting points intact on the engine cover.
IMG_20190526_171443885.jpg
 

honeybadger

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Enclosed the GT350 style air box based on seeing @honeybadger and @NverFinished - then drove it and it actually worked!!! Aside from looking cool (IMO) on a very hot day (~96) the before and after was apparent in the IAT, in many cases by 15-20 degrees. Note I have removed the underhood insulation so that probably further exacerbated the situation (air box not sealing to my GT hood so the intake was sucking in lots of hot air rather than from the snorkel at the grill).

SealedInakte_FrontView.jpeg


(link to thread with instructions from @NverFinished : https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...t-ford-performance-power-packs.60467/page-245)

Looks great man!
 

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MikeHTally

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Resonator deleted, y-pipe subbed. Tune changed to Stage 2/93. Nice growl and no drone. I was concerned it would drone, but at steady-state speed on the interstate, it's nice and quiet. Sure asserts its authority when the warp drive is engaged, though.

Also let it sit while I used the RAV to take my baby girl to the vet for surgery.
DSCN0682.JPG
 
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tj@steeda

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finally put the bushing supports and alignment kit from the steeda stop the hop kit. noticeable difference in handling with no NVH. worth every penny
We agree :)
 

TicTocTach

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Thanks! That looks very manageable - and not exactly how I thought things would be assembled. Great to see so many snap together parts compared to how my old cars go together. Maybe I can handle this sooner than later. Thanks for the link!
 

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samd1351

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If you were local I'd be happy to help a fellow enthusiast out, but otherwise my low tech pizza box template and test fit, curse, sand, test fit, rinse and repeat process might make it take waaaay too long for anything production grade :)

For the under hood insulation I read on this forum, read some more, asked at a few cars and coffee, and finally went for it and so far so good. I believe the general consensus is it's for sound deadening anyway.... if it got hot enough under there to bubble paint the engine is probably on fire and I have bigger problems.... or it'll be an excuse to try a sweet carbon fiber hood someday, I guess time will tell :) I did order a decal from Anchor Room for under there I'll post up in a few days (after I have a chance to install)... they were super easy to work with and quickly cranked out a custom order (you do need to email them for the under-hood decal as I don't think it's listed on their site)...
I really want to pull the insulation off. I had a '72 Chevelle back in high school with an aftermarket cowl induction hood. The car stalled, back fired up through the carburetor, and set the air cleaner and distributor on fire. Didn't realize there was a fire until I saw a 6 inch bubble form on the hood. Burned hot and fast for about 30 seconds, but that was all it took. So I'm just a little gun-shy to do it. But it looks so dang good without it.

Gonna go clean the pizza out of the fridge and start a template.
 

TicTocTach

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Thanks! I love the 285/35 setup on the car now, but still waffling on going to 305 square in the future. My original plan was to just have it on the shelf in case I damage a wheel. I think this was the last bronze 19x10 GT7 that LMR had. If I do a spare, it will likely be a compact spare to replace the inflator kit in the car now - I need to keep the trunk functional. I plan on running a square setup so I can rotate a front to the rear if need be.
 

nameuser

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Uncle’s lift still has my grandmothers 1930 Chevy on it so I decided to finally put on my magnaflow competition cat back using jack stands. After much back and neck aches here’s the final result:

About to head to my preferred muffler shop to let them align it better, I’m too sore.
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56ED9B26-5C1B-48AA-BF7A-ABFF41B3FB8B.jpeg
6472B914-5A06-4899-87F0-FFE071431460.jpeg
385B4C2B-121B-4794-8880-7A424CAF2258.jpeg
 

Genxer

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Not today... but Saturday, I got to drive part of the "Twisted Sisters" down in the hill country of Texas. Lots of turns and roller coaster hills. For you Texas guys, the "sisters" are FM 335, 336, and 337. The drive to get down to them on hwy 16 from Kerrville is nice too. The car performed well, staying very planted. I was impressed.
 

Diocletian

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Gave her a wash n wax
IMG_20190701_150657.jpg
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