Backup Camera Not Working

[DarkHorse850]

Hey everyone. I see that there are other threads on this issue but I didn't quite find what I needed and I don't want to hijack anybody's thread. So last Friday, my backup camera stopped working. I found a few threads and saw a potential fix. I saw where the zip tie was possibly causing the issue, pulled back the sleeve, cloth and electrical tape and found that none of the wire had an issue except for the set of wires all wrapped together with what looked like silver tape. This set had 3 wires together and one of them appeared to be cut. Since believed this to be the issue so I cut it all the way. From there I used a butt splice to connect them all together. This didn't resolve the issue. Now, I am wondering, did I need to splice those 3 wires individually? I spliced them all together, None of the other wires I saw appeared to be cut. I don't know if I screwed the pooch with this or not. I didn't want to take it to the dealer (don't have the time and don't want to spend the money). Plus even with an extended warranty, I don't believe me doing what I did to try and fix this; that taking it in is even an option at this point. Sorry for writing a novel. Any help you guys can throw my way would be really appreciated.

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[DarkHorse850]

**Problem solved**

 

[JohnDoe]

**Problem solved**

I tried splicing the ends back together and the camera would only work sometimes. How did you fix yours?

 

[MadKaw]

What did you do?

**Problem solved**

 

[ean611]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/attachments/tsb-18-2362-inop-bakup-cam-pdf.340632/

TSB 18-2362

That's the Technical service bulletin for this. Covers 2015-2017. You probably need the entire wire loom replaced. Part is cheap, labor is not.

 

[kcc0521]

What was the actual fix to this? Was there any noticeable damaged to the outside of the wiring or did the covering need to be removed?

 

[Cobra Jet]

What was the actual fix to this? Was there any noticeable damaged to the outside of the wiring or did the covering need to be removed?

If your vehicle is still within the 3/36 (or if you bought a Ford ESP Warranty Plan), it’s covered by Warranty repair and Ford will repair free of charge. If the vehicle is beyond the 3/36 and there is no ESP, you pay out of pocket for Ford to do the repair OR you do it yourself.

The damage is only visible once the factory conduit sheathing is removed to expose the actual wires of the harness loom. In many instances there will be broken wires which have to be repaired by getting matching gauge wire and adding (splicing) in between the broken wires. You want additional length so that the wires will not break again. Ford Warranty calls for the same repair methods.

After you do the repair, just use electric tape (or new flexible conduit) to seal up the wires again so it looks factory.

The reason that harness and the wires within are breaking is the harness was not long enough to allow for constant flexing of the wires when the trunk is being used more often than normal. On convertibles, the broken wires will also affect Sirius reception because the antenna runs through the same loom.

Actually, the BMW E36 (1992-1999) had the same exact issue. In those cars once the wires broke, it disabled the factory locks all the way around, affected rear lights and in some instances it could lead to electrical fires... IIRC, BMW actually had a recall due to the safety aspect (potential fire hazard).

 

[JohnDoe]

Anyone know the exact gauge wire? My repair is only working 40% of the time lol

 

[kcc0521]

If your vehicle is still within the 3/36 (or if you bought a Ford ESP Warranty Plan), it’s covered by Warranty repair and Ford will repair free of charge. If the vehicle is beyond the 3/36 and there is no ESP, you pay out of pocket for Ford to do the repair OR you do it yourself.

The damage is only visible once the factory conduit sheathing is removed to expose the actual wires of the harness loom. In many instances there will be broken wires which have to be repaired by getting matching gauge wire and adding (splicing) in between the broken wires. You want additional length so that the wires will not break again. Ford Warranty calls for the same repair methods.

After you do the repair, just use electric tape (or new flexible conduit) to seal up the wires again so it looks factory.

The reason that harness and the wires within are breaking is the harness was not long enough to allow for constant flexing of the wires when the trunk is being used more often than normal. On convertibles, the broken wires will also affect Sirius reception because the antenna runs through the same loom.

Actually, the BMW E36 (1992-1999) had the same exact issue. In those cars once the wires broke, it disabled the factory locks all the way around, affected rear lights and in some instances it could lead to electrical fires... IIRC, BMW actually had a recall due to the safety aspect (potential fire hazard).

Thanks for the information. I will try to cut it open today.

 

[Hooch180]

Does this issue still exists on 2019? Is there any preventive measure that can be taken?

 

[Cobra Jet]

Does this issue still exists on 2019? Is there any preventive measure that can be taken?

The problem is present more so in the 2015-2017’s, have not seen concerning posts from 2018/19 owners. It seems Ford has lengthened the wiring loom so it’s not so tight when the trunk lid is in the closed position.

My 2018 has 28k on it now and no such issue.

My prior 2016 only had under 10k on it when the backup cam failed due to the wiring issue.

The hyperlinked pdf below is the Ford TSB which was specific only to the 2015-2017 model years.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/attachments/mc-10153932-9999-pdf.369716/

 

[Medsport]

I don't know if I have the same problem? My backup camera stopped working in my 16 gt all of a sudden. There is no error message, it just stays on whatever the current screen is when put into reverse. Of course, I'm pretty sure my warranty just ran out as I've got like 37k on it and didn't get the extended warranty. I was about to trade it in last summer, but decided to wait and may trade it in in a few months so not sure it would be worth fixing if its going to be fairly expensive.

 

[MyFirst5.0]

finally got sick of my blue screen, found the culprit

 

[stangs-R-me]

My trunk light had been requiring me to wiggle the wiring harness in order to get it to turn on for a while now, but a few weeks ago the Back Up Camera all of a sudden was "unavailable".

Googled the problem and found all sorts of posts & videos as well as the TSB 18-2362 dated 12/17/2018 for the wiring harness issue.

Opened up my harness and sure enough 4 of the 6 main wires were either broken or insulation was cracked with wire close to being completely broken ... right where the protective outer plastic sleeve ended as they say is typical. The 3 camera wires in the separate black shielded harness looked ok, so I did not unravel them. I used non-insulated butt-connectors & heat shrink tubing to fix the 4 and I had my trunk light back and camera was again working too. Bundled it all back up with split loom & tape and the next day I noticed the camera was out again.

Well, found the TSB 18-2362 Repair Harness (Coupe) FR3Z-14A411-X on ebay for $25.00 shipped so I jumped on that and tore back into it on the following weekend (if you have a Convertible, you need harness # FR3Z-14A411-Y).

The replacement harness is long enough that you can do stagger splices between where it splits from the main harness and where it is retained with the last zip-tie at the body.

Instead of laying on my back in the trunk on the folded rear seat and stagger butt-connecting all 9 wires, heat shrinking, then re-wrapping the harness I instead used 6 and 3 pin Weather-Pack connector plugs.

Much easier doing the new harness out of the car then just the terminals on the end of the body harness laying on my back. Not having to strategically stagger the connections saved a lot of time and tedious work too.

That and if this harness ever fails again (doubt it will as it feels like they added a much longer protective sleeve to eliminate the problem), I just need to put a set of terminals on the new harness, swap over the 2 plugs, then swap out the bad harness.

Certainly don't need to use big & bulky Weather-Pack connectors, but it is what I had available at home.

Doug

 

[Medsport]

Those that took their car to the dealership to fix this issue, how much did they charge?

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