Install notes, full suspension w/ bearing advice.

[MPotter]

Hey gang... snip ...

I also decided the easiest way to torque the center strut nut on the Caster Camber Plates was to use a Crowfoot socket on it so I could also slip a socket on the rod from up top. Fortunately the Steeda Nut size for this is 22mm or 7/8 which happens to be the same size as an O2 sensor socket which I was able to get through AutoZone and their tool loaner program. If you need a quality torque wrench or bearing press don't forget about your local Auto parts store tool loaner, they might surprise you with what's available. ... snip...

One thing I've done since I didn't have the crows-foot socket or O2 socket, was to grind flats (15/16" if I recall) on the top of a 1/2" drive deep socket for the nut and then pass a 1/4" extension through the 1/2" square drive hole, stick whatever socket on the extension and then tighten or loosen as required. Works pretty well.

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[GTP]

To remove the RLCA bearing, use the proper size hole saw to saw out the rubber middle part of the old bearing. Then use a Sawzall and fine-tooth blade to saw through the outer wall of the old bearing. It is okay to nick the aluminum arm a little at the end of the process. Or switch to a regular hacksaw near the end. Then it presses out easy. You can even knock it out without a press.

Pressing in the new bearing should be easier than trying to press out the old one.

 

[H1shawn1]

To remove the RLCA bearing, use the proper size hole saw to saw out the rubber middle part of the old bearing. Then use a Sawzall and fine-tooth blade to saw through the outer wall of the old bearing. It is okay to nick the aluminum arm a little at the end of the process. Or switch to a regular hacksaw near the end. Then it presses out easy. You can even knock it out without a press.

Pressing in the new bearing should be easier than trying to press out the old one.

This would have been great to know beforehand, thanks a ton for sharing hopefully it helps the next guy.

 

[GTP]

I want to do the bearings on my brand new car, and it would be best while everything is so clean!
My skill level and confidence is about the same as you OP, but I know how these jobs blow up and take up a lot more time than expected. I have changed out suspensions and CB005, etc, but pulling the hubs and lower arms loose will be challenging. I heard the inner bearing is hard to get a big wrench on and is very tight too.

 

[H1shawn1]

I want to do the bearings on my brand new car, and it would be best while everything is so clean!
My skill level and confidence is about the same as you OP, but I know how these jobs blow up and take up a lot more time than expected. I have changed out suspensions and CB005, etc, but pulling the hubs and lower arms loose will be challenging. I heard the inner bearing is hard to get a big wrench on and is very tight too.

If you have a buddy that can help and the proper tools you'll be fine. If you decide to do it please add to this thread to help the next guy. You can do it solo as well, but few things better then having a second set of hands when you need it.

Like any other job having the right tools is crucial, I don't know what your toolbox looks like but it sounds like you are probably in better shape then I was when I first decided to take this on.

 

[BmacIL]

I want to do the bearings on my brand new car, and it would be best while everything is so clean!
My skill level and confidence is about the same as you OP, but I know how these jobs blow up and take up a lot more time than expected. I have changed out suspensions and CB005, etc, but pulling the hubs and lower arms loose will be challenging. I heard the inner bearing is hard to get a big wrench on and is very tight too.

You have to remove the exhaust to get proper access to the bolt with a long extension. Pulling the whole spindle assembly makes it easier than trying to work around it being there while suspended from something on the body, at least from my point of view.

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