Bull's Jack-of-all-trades 2015 EB Premium PP

[Cardude99]

No problem, they are Advanti DST HY Hybris, 19x9.5, 40mm offset. Note that I had to get a 3mm spacer because there was a slight rubbing with the 4-piston calipers. Also, note that the wheel caps won't fit up front unless you have a set of wider spacers. I just left mine off. I was able to ditch the 3mm spacer once I upgraded to 6-piston Brembos.

Tires are 285/35 19's. 285's are widest recommended for these wheels.

Have you tracked your car? Do they hold up well to that? For the price and the weight I sort of expect them to fall apart. Do the spacers require extended studs?

I mean if these wheels hold up and are actually 20 lbs like tire rack claims then shoot I may need to pick up a set.

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[Bull Run]

Have you tracked your car? Do they hold up well to that? For the price and the weight I sort of expect them to fall apart. Do the spacers require extended studs?

I mean if these wheels hold up and are actually 20 lbs like tire rack claims then shoot I may need to pick up a set.

Haven't tracked it yet, planning on doing it to stress test the mod once I get some time. They were the lightest wheels on tirerack.com at the time of purchase but their spokes are definitely thinner than the OEM rims. The spacers I used were only 3mm thick so no extended studs are needed. I didn't need to keep the spacers once I swapped to GTPP calipers.

 

[Blue Moon]

Have you tracked your car? Do they hold up well to that? For the price and the weight I sort of expect them to fall apart. Do the spacers require extended studs?

I mean if these wheels hold up and are actually 20 lbs like tire rack claims then shoot I may need to pick up a set.

I have Advanti DST Svelto, 20x9 on all 4 corners. Haven't tracked mine either, but they're holding up fine to the killer potholes of the northeast.

 

[Cardude99]

I have Advanti DST Svelto, 20x9 on all 4 corners. Haven't tracked mine either, but they're holding up fine to the killer potholes of the northeast.

20's are a little to big for me. Wanting to say with 19's. Thank you for the input though, every little bit helps.

 

[Bull Run]

20's are a little to big for me. Wanting to say with 19's. Thank you for the input though, every little bit helps.

Forgot to add that wide of my rims are 9.5" and the additional search showed that while it meets the minimum requirements for 285 width tries, it may be on the narrow side for performance purposes. So I'll look at 275's when it's time to replace the tires, or go with wider rims if they break.

 

[Hinzel]

your build is great, and the detailed thread is awesome

curious if you've dyno'd since installing the meth kit? i saw you hit just shy of 360 whp with the vargas stage 2 on 91 which is awesome. i have one coming and was hoping for 350 whp, so that is very promising

 

[Bull Run]

your build is great, and the detailed thread is awesome

curious if you've dyno'd since installing the meth kit? i saw you hit just shy of 360 whp with the vargas stage 2 on 91 which is awesome. i have one coming and was hoping for 350 whp, so that is very promising

Thanks! Actually, I had AEM v2 kit with a single 550cc nozzle on the charge pipe when dynoed the car. I haven't done any other one since I went to the multiport nozzles and some other mods, although I wouldn't expect a big change since I'm still on the same tune. Unfortunately, I didn't dyno the car prior to the AEK kit but I think Cobb showed estimated gain of around 30 HP and it's noticeable. Adam said it's similar to the E30 tune.

 

[Bull Run]

Finally got to installing windshield washer nozzle relocation kit (Trufiber hoods don't come with OEM nozzle mounts) that mounts on the wipers and it's working great!



The instruction manual says it's for 05-14, but I was able to make it work by rearranging the tubing and trimming them. The Instruction manual also has the tubes going under the plastic piece and drilling a couple of holes to feed the tubes through, but I mounted the tubes on top to make sure the kit worked first. I'll reroute the tubes if their location ends up bugging me.

Cut the OEM tubing right before the first tee. Since the OEM tubing isn't flexible, I used leftover E6000 sealant on the connection (methanol resistant) to be on the safe side.

Passenger side wiper

Driver side wiper

Up close view of a nozzle

Overall view

The kit's called "SpeedForm Squirter Nozzle Relocation Kit". Looking at the materials, it's not really worth $55. You probably can do it for much cheaper if you can find the clip-on nozzles separately.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/nozzle-relocation-0510.html

 

[Bull Run]

Non-lightweight versions of Trufiber hoods come with the bottom covers that prevent water from coming straight down through the heat extractors. Bottom covers have small holes, which are smaller in number and size than the top holes.

Since size extractors aren't covering anything that can't get wet, I cut the bottom covers out to increase the effectiveness of heat extractors. I left the center cover in place to prevent water from going into the spark plug galley.

 

[Blue Moon]

Which Trufiber hood did you get? I have the A72, not lightweight, and my heat extractors don't have bottom covers.

 

[Bull Run]

Which Trufiber hood did you get? I have the A72, not lightweight, and my heat extractors don't have bottom covers.

I got the A81. Initially ordered the lightweight version but they were out of stock and ETA kept getting delayed, so I settled for the regular version.

 

[Bull Run]

Since just fully uncovering the side hood vents didn't show any measurable difference, I also opened up the center vent and found that it made a difference.

The air inlet temp's usually around 0 to 3 degrees higher than ambient while cruising. Using A/C adds up to 10 degrees to the inlet and charge temps. With the center vent fully uncovered, cruising with A/C on shows the inlet temp only going up to around 3 to 5 degrees higher than ambient with a similar reduction in the charge temp. My guess is that aside from the center vent being larger than the side ones combined, also runs over the intake tubing going to the turbo and reduces its heat soak.

I did a car wash test and checking the engine bay right afterward showed that only the front of the engine gets slightly wet, which should pose no problems.

 

[Bull Run]

My friend recently retired his GT350R from track duty and since he knows that I'm looking into tracking my car someday, he offered to sell his track wheels at a price I couldn't refuse. He left his well-worn Cup2s on (305/30/19 front, 315/30/19 rear) so I can try the wheels on the car for a few days to make sure they don't rub since they are wider and fronts have a different offset than the same model wheels spec'd for regular Mustangs.

https://project6gr.com/product/project-6gr-seven-gloss-black-finish-r-spec/

Side view:

Rears look close to even:

I don't mind that the fronts poke, but I'd say about about -2.0 degrees of camber should even them out:

Wheels and tires cleared the shocks and struts:

The test: It was a night and day difference as far the traction goes; the car cornered as if it was on rails and handled sharp turns with ease, whereas 285/35/19 Conti Extreme Contact Sports would've started chirping. As for hard acceleration, I was able to mash the throttle from a slow roll and just got a chirp before the car took off whereas it would've spun into the 3rd gear with the other tires.

I took the car to a tech and tune day at the Wild Horse Pass to see how CUP2s perform on a drag strip, as well as to do a torture test on my mods and WMI nozzle sizing as the ambient temp was close to 110 degrees. Unfortunately, I failed the inspection due to my battery relocation.

I ordered a sealed battery box and cables to become compliant and go back to the strip afterward.

 

[Bull Run]

I ordered Taylor battery box #48300 which is the smallest battery box I found online but still provides plenty of space for the ATX-20 battery:

I should've read through the actual NHRA rules on the battery before ordering the battery box but found out that relocated batteries need more than just a sealed battery box to be legal. For example, this battery box came with 5/16" bolts and adjustable plastic hold down whereas the larger models come with 3/8" bolts and metal hold downs. Rules call for the larger bolts and metal hold downs, which are easy enough to obtain, but it also calls for a master cutoff switch located at the rearmost part of the vehicle and easily accessible from the outside. I'm not sure if merely disconnecting the positive side of the battery will actually shut down the running car and I'd rather not have an externally accessible switch, so I decided to just put the battery back in the stock location to make it easy.

The stock positive cable reaches the terminal without issues, but I had to add an extension cable for the ground:

I didn't want to waste the previously ran battery cable to the passenger compartment, so I added a distribution box to it, so I'll have easy access to always hot 12v source for the future mods:

The distribution box with the cover:

 

[Bull Run]

I've been eyeing the UPR dual valve catch can for a while but didn't pull the trigger because they don't have a coupler that's compatible with the VS2+ turbo. That changed when I found a used one at a good price since I shouldn't have issues selling it for the same price if my experiment didn't work.

Since I wasn't able to use the supplied coupler, I drilled a hole using a 1/2" bit by the BOV hose fitting on the Airaid intake tube.

I took the push connect fitting from the UPR coupler and screwed it into the newly drilled hole. It screwed in tightly but I also applied the leftover E6000 goop to ensure a leak-free seal.

Due to the WOT line was just being long enough to reach the coupler, I took the intake side connector off its end, installed a 1/2" hose mender, and installed the connector to another 1/2" hose I bought as an extension.

Once the extension hose was routed and connected to the intake tube, I cut it and joined it to the supplied WOT line.

This is how it looks after the install. Other than the WOT line, the rest of the install was the same as a typical install.

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