Help with Check Engine Code P144c

[Hiei]

Took it to Autozone got it diagnosed and I have to replace the Purge Valve Canister/Solenoid, it's just $25 bucks and is an easy install hopefully that fixes the problem

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[yomamma219]

Just got my first CEL on my way to work this morning. Went out to my car at lunch and ran the fault code scan on the "Torque Pro" App with my bluetooth OBD connector. Came up as "PENDING FAULT" with a "P144C-Powertrain" code. Did a bit of research after lunch and seems like a relatively common issue with many different cars and doesn't pose much immediate significant issue. Wanted to see what the 6G hive-mind had to say and found this thread of two results searching for P144C. Everything here seems to align with what my initial research had shown.

My question/concern is if anyone knows if this is something that has the potential to be a larger issue than a simple valve or tube replacement? This is more of a blind fear than anything. I am at 34.5K miles so I called the dealership right away to schedule an appointment tomorrow since I believe it should be warranty covered.

Since I am so close to the 36K mark and approaching it quickly I am also concerned that it could be something that is on the verge of failure. Then if the dealer technician just clears the code and can't reproduce it, that it could come back more permanently down the road and be an out of pocket repair for something that had shown failure while still in warranty. Is there any way to protect myself from this?

Thanks for any help.

 

[ElAviator72]

Had the same problem.

Ford fixed it under warranty for me. It is fixed by replacing the cannister purge valve. If you persist in driving with it, you will run richer than normal and might notice a gasoline smell every now and again :headbonk:

 

[Regs]

Had the same problem.

Ford fixed it under warranty for me. It is fixed by replacing the cannister purge valve. If you persist in driving with it, you will run richer than normal and might notice a gasoline smell every now and again :headbonk:

And with that risking burning up your exhaust parts prematurely.

 

[yomamma219]

[MENTION=17566]ElAviator72[/MENTION] thanks for the info didn't know about the richer running. Obviously don't want that long term, though I wouldn't mind the potential of more pops and shooting flames in the short term [MENTION=24468]Regs[/MENTION] //sarcasm

My biggest fears were from the stories I read of people's cars stalling out riding down the highway, fuel tanks being.over pressurized, having air in the fuel line and thus pump etc etc. But sounds like it shouldn't be a significant immidiate threat.

At the dealership now for the appointment I scheduled yesterday. I hate coming here for service. I get irked when I get told they have "no more rental cars". I know it could maybeeee be true but the massive lot full of cars makes me feel otherwise... Also when I get told the car is "in the back right now" when I had just gotten up from my seat since I had been staring at it for the last 10minutes in a parking spot.

 

[mbreinin]

[MENTION=17566]ElAviator72[/MENTION] thanks for the info didn't know about the richer running. Obviously don't want that long term, though I wouldn't mind the potential of more pops and shooting flames in the short term [MENTION=24468]Regs[/MENTION] //sarcasm

My biggest fears were from the stories I read of people's cars stalling out riding down the highway, fuel tanks being.over pressurized, having air in the fuel line and thus pump etc etc. But sounds like it shouldn't be a significant immidiate threat.

At the dealership now for the appointment I scheduled yesterday. I hate coming here for service. I get irked when I get told they have "no more rental cars". I know it could maybeeee be true but the massive lot full of cars makes me feel otherwise... Also when I get told the car is "in the back right now" when I had just gotten up from my seat since I had been staring at it for the last 10minutes in a parking spot.

I drove with mine like this for a long time, longer than I care to admit. I was at the point where I could not start the car without adding throttle. I would actually keep it running while pumping gas to avoid the issue. I finally changed it and all is cured. I changed it because, aside from it being a PITA, apparently when this code is thrown, it disables fuel trims.

 

[Seesnax]

Yes, I realize I am bringing back a 15+ month old thread, but it is either this or start yet another one on this same topic.

Just got the P144C code with the "check engine" light a few weeks ago. 2016 EB with about 92k miles on it, so not too surprised - this is the first issue I have had with the car ever. Googled and searched on this forum to discover that it most likely relates to the evap purge solenoid/line. Ordered one from my dealership (~$45), and after reviewing some YouTube videos, swapped it out in about 30 minutes.

Called AutoZone to see if they could reset the "check engine" light, and they said they are not allowed to do that anymore. They told me that the light would go out in 20-25 start cycles. It has now been about that many cycles, and the light is still on. I don't know anyone with an OBD tool/reader/clearer that can reset the light. Is AZ correct in that it will go out on its own after some period of time or start/stop cycles, or do I need to go pay some indy shop or (shudder) the dealer to clear it? I haven't had the code read since I replaced the part, so maybe there is something else going on?

 

[Hinzel]

its worth buying an obdlink mx for use with forscan IMO:
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-OBD...ds=obdlink+mx&qid=1559593584&s=gateway&sr=8-3

you can clear codes and do a ton of other things in there

 

[yomamma219]

@Seesnax if you go to AutoZone you should be able to borrow one of their obd readers and clear the code yourself. Also you can get an Bluetooth obd reader off Amazon for $20-$30 and there are a bunch of Android apps that work with them and will clear the code. Personally I use torque pro which is about $5, but there is a free version as well. The obdlink that @Hinzel recommended is supposed to be very powerful when paired with forscan but is probably a bit overkill for your needs.

 

[Hellman109]

Even $30 is a lot for an OBD2 these days, I paid I think $15 for one that supports the extended CAN stuff off aliexpress.

 

[Seesnax]

@Seesnax if you go to AutoZone you should be able to borrow one of their obd readers and clear the code yourself. Also you can get an Bluetooth obd reader off Amazon for $20-$30 and there are a bunch of Android apps that work with them and will clear the code. Personally I use torque pro which is about $5, but there is a free version as well. The obdlink that @Hinzel recommended is supposed to be very powerful when paired with forscan but is probably a bit overkill for your needs.

Thank you for the responses folks. I did look at the Amazon link from 'Hinzel' on the OBDLinkMX, and I agree that would probably be overkill for what I need (but nice to have!). Yomamma219, do you have any recommendations for the $20-30 readers? And are these just readers or do they clear codes as well? I have called two different AutoZone stores and they both said they do not let customers use their readers to clear codes (some crap about liability and warranty issues). I thought I saw an OBD reader at Wal-Mart the other day for about $30, but I don't know if it clears codes or just reads them.

If it makes a difference (as it did with the OBDLinkMX), I have an iPhone and would actually need to get the OBDLinkMX+, which is even more expensive. My wife has an Android, but I don't think she would like for me to use her phone for my car....

 

[Seesnax]

Even $30 is a lot for an OBD2 these days, I paid I think $15 for one that supports the extended CAN stuff off aliexpress.

Thanks! Any specific recommendations or links to one of these?

 

[Seesnax]

Just to bring this topic (for me at least) to a close, I found someone at work who let me borrow his OBDII reader/clearer, and in about 3 minutes (with no instruction or direction) had the code cleared. That was a couple of days ago, and things have been great ever since.

For those who may be looking (including me), the reader I used was an Autel AutoLink AL319. A quick Google search shows you can get one of these from Amazon for about $35. I haven't pulled the trigger just yet, but would say this is money well-spent.

Thanks again for all of the replies and help!

 

[yomamma219]

Just to bring this topic (for me at least) to a close, I found someone at work who let me borrow his OBDII reader/clearer, and in about 3 minutes (with no instruction or direction) had the code cleared. That was a couple of days ago, and things have been great ever since.

For those who may be looking (including me), the reader I used was an Autel AutoLink AL319. A quick Google search shows you can get one of these from Amazon for about $35. I haven't pulled the trigger just yet, but would say this is money well-spent.

Thanks again for all of the replies and help!

Sorry for not responding, am not as active on the forum lately and forget to check for replies to my replies. Glad you got it all cleared up. I think you went in the right direction for what you needed. I think anything on amazon listed as a wifi or bluetooth OBD reader and was on the first page or two or results would have been sufficient. Future people looking at the thread would just need to be weary of getting the proper kind if they are on Iphone as I think it only supports the wifi kind (?), but I can't guarantee that as I am on android and use bluetooth.

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