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Input needed, no real confidence in the car

Mazman

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I have the 18 PP1, Magneride with FP M-5300-W springs, CB005, subframe alignment kit and diff bushings. Nothing done to the front of the car more than the lowering springs. Don't have the strut tower brace as those are not standard on the export models.

I honestly must say I don't feel confident at all with at least how the car feels on the street when being pushed. It feels "wobbly" sometimes it feels like the backend steps out but it is not the tires slipping. Do you know what it can be. I am thinking of installing a bumpsteer kit to ease the front a bit at least. Apart from that I am not sure, don't think caster/camber plates and adjustable camber arms in the rear are needed. Maybe this is the way these cars are? Has something been installed incorrectly? I have yet to find a shop that can clock my bushings....Also I assume I have quite a lot of mechanical grip from the wider tires and the PS4S compound but still slthe car feels unsettled.

Thanks Maz
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BmacIL

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I have the 18 PP1, Magneride with FP M-5300-W springs, CB005, subframe alignment kit and diff bushings. Nothing done to the front of the car more than the lowering springs. Don't have the strut tower brace as those are not standard on the export models.

I honestly must say I don't feel confident at all with at least how the car feels on the street when being pushed. It feels "wobbly" sometimes it feels like the backend steps out but it is not the tires slipping. Do you know what it can be. I am thinking of installing a bumpsteer kit to ease the front a bit at least. Apart from that I am not sure, don't think caster/camber plates and adjustable camber arms in the rear are needed. Maybe this is the way these cars are? Has something been installed incorrectly? I have yet to find a shop that can clock my bushings....Also I assume I have quite a lot of mechanical grip from the wider tires and the PS4S compound but still slthe car feels unsettled.

Thanks Maz
Get those bushings clocked ASAP. That's definitely hurting. Next biggest thing: alignment and tire pressures. Whatcha got?


I'd also say that the rear springs from the FP kit are pretty soft and progressive rate, and could be part of the issue, particularly because the fronts are not.
 
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Mazman

Mazman

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Thanks for the input

I have to try and find a shop that can do the clocking, otherwise I will try to somehow do it in the garage with my wheels cribs.

As you are saying the springs feel soft. Even in track mode it's not particularly stiff so to speak.

I have to do a re-alignment again as I did the last one last year. Shops here in Sweden don't know how to adjust the rear.... But the last sheet I got looked OK.

Running 2.2bars(32 psi) front and rear

Get those bushings clocked ASAP. That's definitely hurting. Next biggest thing: alignment and tire pressures. Whatcha got?


I'd also say that the rear springs from the FP kit are pretty soft and progressive rate, and could be part of the issue, particularly because the fronts are not.
 

Nonsequitur

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Thanks for the input

I have to try and find a shop that can do the clocking, otherwise I will try to somehow do it in the garage with my wheels cribs.

As you are saying the springs feel soft. Even in track mode it's not particularly stiff so to speak.

I have to do a re-alignment again as I did the last one last year. Shops here in Sweden don't know how to adjust the rear.... But the last sheet I got looked OK.

Running 2.2bars(32 psi) front and rear
Steeda's bumpsteer kit really does help to tame that "nervous" feeling in the front. As for tire pressure, I'm running 32 front and 30 rear.

Since you have the Magnaride shocks with lowering springs, you should have a shop reset your shocks "resting" height. This helps a lot with the weird bouncy feeling which could contribute to the car's feeling of being unsettled.

Hope this helps!
 

BmacIL

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Thanks for the input

I have to try and find a shop that can do the clocking, otherwise I will try to somehow do it in the garage with my wheels cribs.

As you are saying the springs feel soft. Even in track mode it's not particularly stiff so to speak.

I have to do a re-alignment again as I did the last one last year. Shops here in Sweden don't know how to adjust the rear.... But the last sheet I got looked OK.

Running 2.2bars(32 psi) front and rear
The alignment is critical. On these cars, particularly once modified, they need to be held to tight specifications. Simply in the 'Green' is not good enough, even when the car is stock. You may need to show the shop how to adjust it, as it's very important for getting the car to feel correct.
 

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Get those bushings clocked ASAP. That's definitely hurting. Next biggest thing: alignment and tire pressures. Whatcha got?


I'd also say that the rear springs from the FP kit are pretty soft and progressive rate, and could be part of the issue, particularly because the fronts are not.
. What does clocking bushes mean?
 

BmacIL

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Coyote Red

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I see you have Steeda parts so, Buy the 2 pt. front G-track brace and it will help "stiffen" the front as I can feel my BMR 4 pt. brace helps my CB005 lock-outs.
 

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I agree that alignment is a likely cause. Sometimes caused by under torquing the various suspension bolts. Easy to do if a shop does not check the specs and just uses typical values, because the Mustang uses beefy bolts and tends to require twice the torque (if not more) than my last car.

I had an issue with my car where it got scary to drive after the alignment went signifcantly toe out in the rear due to under torqued bolts allowing the alignment to drift out of spec.
 

Cardude99

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I have the 18 PP1, Magneride with FP M-5300-W springs, CB005, subframe alignment kit and diff bushings. Nothing done to the front of the car more than the lowering springs. Don't have the strut tower brace as those are not standard on the export models.

I honestly must say I don't feel confident at all with at least how the car feels on the street when being pushed. It feels "wobbly" sometimes it feels like the backend steps out but it is not the tires slipping. Do you know what it can be. I am thinking of installing a bumpsteer kit to ease the front a bit at least. Apart from that I am not sure, don't think caster/camber plates and adjustable camber arms in the rear are needed. Maybe this is the way these cars are? Has something been installed incorrectly? I have yet to find a shop that can clock my bushings....Also I assume I have quite a lot of mechanical grip from the wider tires and the PS4S compound but still slthe car feels unsettled.

Thanks Maz
I don't ever want to recommend doing something twice but charge the springs to the Steeda dual rates, they are fantastic and plenty stiff. Throw camber plates on too, then you can get a performance alignment. That should help you a lot. I'm not up on the BMR part lingo but if you don't have their bracing then you need that for the rear cradle as well. Finally get front bracing. I just have the stock strut and top k brace and it does a great job, if I could put the bottom k brace I would
 

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I don't ever want to recommend doing something twice but charge the springs to the Steeda dual rates, they are fantastic and plenty stiff. Throw camber plates on too, then you can get a performance alignment. That should help you a lot. I'm not up on the BMR part lingo but if you don't have their bracing then you need that for the rear cradle as well. Finally get front bracing. I just have the stock strut and top k brace and it does a great job, if I could put the bottom k brace I would
I would worry about the Steeda DR springs to be too much for the Magneride dampers. But that's my guess.
 

Cardude99

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I would worry about the Steeda DR springs to be too much for the Magneride dampers. But that's my guess.
I have magneride and have no issues whatsoever. I absolutely love how they firmed the ride up. Car is much flatter in corners now. I have not noticed any issues at all, put about 1000 miles on the springs so far. After they settle they do become noticeably more comfortable in normal mode, however sport plus and track, different story, car comes alive in turns now when in those modes.
 

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I have magneride and have no issues whatsoever. I absolutely love how they firmed the ride up. Car is much flatter in corners now. I have not noticed any issues at all, put about 1000 miles on the springs so far. After they settle they do become noticeably more comfortable in normal mode, however sport plus and track, different story, car comes alive in turns now when in those modes.
Oh, well there we have it. I only mentioned that because my understanding was the Magneride dampers were designed more for comfort as opposed to pure performance which the dual rate springs are for. Glad to hear it's working out!
 

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I would worry about the Steeda DR springs to be too much for the Magneride dampers. But that's my guess.
I know he commented his experience already, but they have two sets. The regular shock/strut set and a Magneride specific set. Buyer just has to make sure they get the right ones!
 

Bluemustang

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I know he commented his experience already, but they have two sets. The regular shock/strut set and a Magneride specific set. Buyer just has to make sure they get the right ones!
Oh really, didn't know that. That's cool! I still think the OP's problem is something else though like the bushings not being clocked and/or alignment. I see no reason why the 5300-W springs would feel like the OP is describing.
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