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BMR Tech Tip: Check those axle-to-spindle retaining nuts!

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BmacIL

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Mine just started clicking about 2-3 weeks ago after 71k miles. I have the new nuts in the garage. Probably installing tomorrow.
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zrwhat

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No, still haven't figured it out. I installed a new Timken hub and another new axle nut and it is still making the noise. I ran over to Brenspeed and grabbed a stock half shaft they had pulled off when upgrading a customer to stronger shafts. I am going to try that this weekend as well as clocking the bushings and loosening and re-torquing all suspension on that side.
 

Bomorgan123

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No, still haven't figured it out. I installed a new Timken hub and another new axle nut and it is still making the noise. I ran over to Brenspeed and grabbed a stock half shaft they had pulled off when upgrading a customer to stronger shafts. I am going to try that this weekend as well as clocking the bushings and loosening and re-torquing all suspension on that side.
Would love to hear an update! Experiencing a similar problem
 

whalesalad

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Just wanted to give folks the heads up that after a few months the noise is back.

I’m gonna pull the rear driver wheel off tomorrow and check everything.

It used to only happen when moving into reverse for the first time, suddenly, like when the car is rolling down a hill (my driveway) as I’m backing into my garage.

Now it happens when starting from a stop at lights and stop signs. So previously it required a sudden change in front to back direction whereas now it happens from neutral position.

It feels like something is loose and sliding back and forth. Going to check my shock top mounts, diff bushings, and subframe bolts. Those are the only things I have touched since I got the car they might be loose.

Attached is a pic of my driveway for context. I usually back in at a 45° angle this was to be dramatic but imagine slowly backing up that’s hill and as the car goes from not moving to moving, the clank comes from the driver rear.

That was originally, anyway, like I said now it’s happening from stop signs.
2F4DFB29-12F4-431E-AE56-70DD1A7C9B41.jpeg
 

moffetts

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Check your lower control arm bolts for sure. I've had issues with those loosening up over time.
 

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kapiteinlangzaam

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After 18months and $$$$ Ive finally solved my DS clicking issue.

Heres what we replaced:

- Wheel bearings 3 times
- Driveshafts (upgraded to GT350)
- Nuts (twice)
- Diff carrier bearings
- Greased / checked / loosened and refit everything multiple times.

I eventually found a great shop, who on describing the problem said he once had something similar with a Camaro. He immediately went to these, ordered new ones and voila, problem solved.

dsclick2.jpg


dsclick1.jpg


Significantly, he said that the new items from Ford were significantly thicker and look to have been redesigned.

So, finally done with this issue!!
 

Dr. Norts

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After 18months and $$$$ Ive finally solved my DS clicking issue.

Heres what we replaced:

- Wheel bearings 3 times
- Driveshafts (upgraded to GT350)
- Nuts (twice)
- Diff carrier bearings
- Greased / checked / loosened and refit everything multiple times.

I eventually found a great shop, who on describing the problem said he once had something similar with a Camaro. He immediately went to these, ordered new ones and voila, problem solved.

dsclick2.jpg


dsclick1.jpg


Significantly, he said that the new items from Ford were significantly thicker and look to have been redesigned.

So, finally done with this issue!!
I remember someone posting that part months ago and others chiming in about it as well. Exactly what was said about it escapes me though.

What are those? Some kind of compression washer and what is their purpose?
 

gqneon

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The axles from aftermarket companies like Driveshaft Shop don't have those washers like a stock Ford are probably GT 350 new. I wonder if those are needed in addition to that at DSS axles?
 

moffetts

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I don’t recall those being on my gt350 axles. What is the part number for these?
 

TaraFirma

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Rear left wheel on my 350 started wiggling and steering the rear in turns (scary). Checked the left rear nut and it was not even close to 100 lbft. Date with the dealer next week for some warranty work.
 

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Jay-rod427

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Just put in DSS halfshafts last week. I could've gotten the stock drivers side of with a 1/4" ratchet.... FWIW I did 150ft/lbs as Kelly suggests, but even my 200 lb ass with a good sized snap-on breaker bar couldn't get the 1/8th turn past... So I'm calling them good for torque, although they've got to come out this week as BOTH sides ruptured the outer cv boots in one drive....
 

randy_tho

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Curious why the problem with the cv boots?
Are you lowered?

Just put in DSS halfshafts last week. I could've gotten the stock drivers side of with a 1/4" ratchet.... FWIW I did 150ft/lbs as Kelly suggests, but even my 200 lb ass with a good sized snap-on breaker bar couldn't get the 1/8th turn past... So I'm calling them good for torque, although they've got to come out this week as BOTH sides ruptured the outer cv boots in one drive....
 

Jay-rod427

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Curious why the problem with the cv boots?
Are you lowered?
Need to look at potential prob rubbing the shocks dust boots.... but I’m still mad it and have touched it. Yes lowered a little. Bmr drags
 

TaraFirma

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Rear left wheel on my 350 started wiggling and steering the rear in turns (scary). Checked the left rear nut and it was not even close to 100 lbft. Date with the dealer next week for some warranty work.
So, the damage to my hub/bearing. Nut was crazy loose. Everything was reinstated, torqued to spec (both sides) then tested out. Drove great on the way home so I’m putting this one up in the W column.
 

randy_tho

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Have to wonder why this is not a recall issue yet. Seems way too common and somebody could die so...
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