SCCA CAM-C Thread

[jpaulson]

Couple pics of the Proparts set up.

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[SteveW]

Couple pics of the Proparts set up.

Thanks for sharing the pics. What size spacers do you use with your 19x11 wheels? Hoping it's less than what I need with my 11"s so I can work that 11.5" wheel in there.

 

[jpaulson]

Thanks for sharing the pics. What size spacers do you use with your 19x11 wheels? Hoping it's less than what I need with my 11"s so I can work that 11.5" wheel in there.

Using 30mm spacers now. I could get away with 25's if I didn't max the camber at the strut bolts.

 

[SteveW]

Using 30mm spacers now. I could get away with 25's if I didn't max the camber at the strut bolts.

Hmm, clearance sounds similar to what I have then. I'm using 25mm spacers but would need somewhere near 35mm to fit the 11.5s. the trouble with that is the outside corner of the tire hits the rear outer edge of the wheel well if swung one way or the front inside fender liner pretty good when turned the other direction.

I am thinking if I could use less spacer then the tire would have more room around the rear edge of the wheel well because it would be sucked up closer to the strut.

Or I should just get out the sawzall...
Or 11" up front, 11.5" rear...

 

[jpaulson]

Hmm, clearance sounds similar to what I have then. I'm using 25mm spacers but would need somewhere near 35mm to fit the 11.5s. the trouble with that is the outside corner of the tire hits the rear outer edge of the wheel well if swung one way or the front inside fender liner pretty good when turned the other direction.

I am thinking if I could use less spacer then the tire would have more room around the rear edge of the wheel well because it would be sucked up closer to the strut.

Or I should just get out the sawzall...
Or 11" up front, 11.5" rear...

I am having a hard time seeing where that extra half inch of wheel width is worth the hassle.

 

[Norm Peterson]

At some point, another half inch of wheel width becomes the "low hanging fruit". And if 285/35's mounted on 11" wide wheels is your basis (which has been done at an OE regular production level at least for rear fitments), 305/xx and wider just begs for 11.5's. Or wider.

Norm

 

[SteveW]

At some point, another half inch of wheel width becomes the "low hanging fruit". And if 285/35's mounted on 11" wide wheels is your basis (which has been done at an OE regular production level at least for rear fitments), 305/xx and wider just begs for 11.5's. Or wider.

Norm

305/30-19 Rival S is what I'm looking to mount optimally on a wheel and take the most advantage of for autocross.

 

[strengthrehab]

I am installing the MMI weight jackers and 1300# springs at some point (they are on the way, but want to install different LCA bearings to take full advantage). Are they easy to adjust? any ballpark setting/height to maintain some rake? the 6" hyperco springs seems very short.

 

[SteveW]

I am installing the MMI weight jackers and 1300# springs at some point (they are on the way, but want to install different LCA bearings to take full advantage). Are they easy to adjust? any ballpark setting/height to maintain some rake? the 6" hyperco springs seems very short.

They are stupid easy to adjust once installed. Don't even have to jack up the car to reach the jack screw.

I used these at the end of last season with 1600 lb springs and with a ride height of 14.25 - 14.375" hub to top of wheel well. Front had more gap and rake if measuring each end of the side skirt was 5/8".

This year I am on the DR rear springs and they measure 15" hub to top of wheel well so higher. I set the front to the same 15" distance and rake at the side skirt is like 3/4".

I don't know if there is some magic going on with the DR springs or the geometry is much better at the higher ride height or it's a combination of the two but the car is much better this way. So be sure to try different ride heights and see how it feels to you.

You will probably be fine with the 6" spring in there. There's a lot of adjustment with the jacker and any change there is double at the wheel.

 

[strengthrehab]

They are stupid easy to adjust once installed. Don't even have to jack up the car to reach the jack screw.

I used these at the end of last season with 1600 lb springs and with a ride height of 14.25 - 14.375" hub to top of wheel well. Front had more gap and rake if measuring each end of the side skirt was 5/8".

This year I am on the DR rear springs and they measure 15" hub to top of wheel well so higher. I set the front to the same 15" distance and rake at the side skirt is like 3/4".

I don't know if there is some magic going on with the DR springs or the geometry is much better at the higher ride height or it's a combination of the two but the car is much better this way. So be sure to try different ride heights and see how it feels to you.

You will probably be fine with the 6" spring in there. There's a lot of adjustment with the jacker and any change there is double at the wheel.

Thanks, sir. I appreciated the advice.

 

[BmacIL]

They are stupid easy to adjust once installed. Don't even have to jack up the car to reach the jack screw.

I used these at the end of last season with 1600 lb springs and with a ride height of 14.25 - 14.375" hub to top of wheel well. Front had more gap and rake if measuring each end of the side skirt was 5/8".

This year I am on the DR rear springs and they measure 15" hub to top of wheel well so higher. I set the front to the same 15" distance and rake at the side skirt is like 3/4".

I don't know if there is some magic going on with the DR springs or the geometry is much better at the higher ride height or it's a combination of the two but the car is much better this way. So be sure to try different ride heights and see how it feels to you.

You will probably be fine with the 6" spring in there. There's a lot of adjustment with the jacker and any change there is double at the wheel.

I think people tend to lower these cars too much without considering the geometry effects.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I'm pretty sure that the effect of lowering the CG itself gets over-estimated.


Norm

 

[strengthrehab]

They are stupid easy to adjust once installed. Don't even have to jack up the car to reach the jack screw.

I used these at the end of last season with 1600 lb springs and with a ride height of 14.25 - 14.375" hub to top of wheel well. Front had more gap and rake if measuring each end of the side skirt was 5/8".

This year I am on the DR rear springs and they measure 15" hub to top of wheel well so higher. I set the front to the same 15" distance and rake at the side skirt is like 3/4".

I don't know if there is some magic going on with the DR springs or the geometry is much better at the higher ride height or it's a combination of the two but the car is much better this way. So be sure to try different ride heights and see how it feels to you.

You will probably be fine with the 6" spring in there. There's a lot of adjustment with the jacker and any change there is double at the wheel.

Got parts today.

I also measured height from hub to high point on fender.
F: 14"
R: 14.25"

Yikes.

Should I worry about the springs staying seated at droop?

Seems like a lot of space is there.

 

[Wojo]

Hey all! Just thought I'd chime in and introduce myself (and my car). I switched over to CAM-C this year due to STP going away, and mods would have kicked me out of STP anyways.

It's a 2015 Mustang GT Premium Performance Pack (3755 on scale without me, pretty heavy)
Mods:

• 19x11 wheels all around with 305-30-19 RE-71R's (ran Sport 4S's for a year as well, just switched to RE's)
• Steeda Coilover's and Steeda front and rear sway bars
• Steeda front control arms with upgraded bushings and bearings.
• Steeda 2 piece rotors all around with Hawk pads
• Lund e85 tune, Ford 47lb Injectors, GT350 intake manifold, Ford Performance by Borla Cat Back, JLT GT350 CAI, GT350 Throttle Body

Parts waiting to be installed (hopefully next week)

• Comp Stage 3 N/A Camshafts
• Steeda 1 piece driveshaft
• MMR timing upgrades (tensioners, inversion bracket, guides, chains, etc.)
• MMR oil pump gears and crank sprocket gears
• MMR Baffled Oil Pan and Oil Pick up Tube (Will be doing some HPDE eventually)

Car does pretty well in my local region autox events. Not a huge showing in CAM-C unfortunately, but still fun to compete. I usually get to around 15 auto-x events a year.

 

[SteveW]

Got parts today.

I also measured height from hub to high point on fender.
F: 14"
R: 14.25"

Yikes.

Should I worry about the springs staying seated at droop?

Seems like a lot of space is there.

Mine were loose on the perches at full droop but still well within the retainers so I never gave it a second thought. I even ran with no sway bar connected, which if it was would further limit the droop of one side if a wheel came off the road.

Trying to remember how much needed to be disconnected to get a spring out. I think it was just a shock (and sway bar), then the control arm could be pushed down enough to swap a spring.

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