Toydoctor
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2019
- Threads
- 4
- Messages
- 59
- Reaction score
- 64
- Location
- Seminole Florido
- First Name
- Ryan
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Ford Mustang
- Thread starter
- #1
I did a search looking for Roush stage one setups making close to 700 WHP with the roush tune.
I didn't come up with much, so I wanted to share my story. Please accept my apologies if this has
been done before.
Here are the specs, but first here is a...
DISCLAIMER
This is for recreational reading only, feel free to accept or disregard any anything I'm about to
say. I'm not a self proclaimed automotive engineer. I'm just a grease monkey that likes to
experiment with his car. Most will think that this was dumb thing to do on a new car, but I
thought it was a fun project and possibly it may help some may come to a decision as to
why or why not to install an intercooler chiller system on a forced inducted engine.
2018 Mustang GT MT82 3.55 Ring and pinon
Typewritter tick and piston slap factory option installed
Roush stage one supercharger kit With factory Roush Tune
Mcleod RXT clutch and flywheel
Factory exhaust system
Air filter cover removed
Backyard intercooler chiller system intercooler water temp 42F, Cabin evaporator shut off via
solenoid
74F, 70% humidity, 40ft above sea level Smoothing 5, SAE correction factor For previous run.
85F, 59% humidity, 40ft above sea level, " For today's run.
Dyno graph is pre and post interchiller.
Sorry for the crappy photo I didn't get the run file. I made one previous run to this one where
the car made 695.So it is repeatable horse power.
Just like everyone else that has bought a Roush kit, I was sucked in by the juicy warranty that the
company offers. My engine made healthy stock numbers: 430 whp and 402 ft lbs of torque.
Unfortunately I started the"tick" at about 1500 miles and the pistons sound like tin cans stuck in a
blender. The engine has about 4000miles with the blower and doesn't smoke or use oil, but still it
probably wasn't a genius idea to bolt on 240 extra hp of blower on one noisiest new car engines
I've ever heard. Ford says it's normal right? And in my opinion there is nothing better than a
handsome looking supercharger bolted on top of a giant looking V8.
I'm still a certified Master ASE mechanic, so I took it upon myself to install the supercharger in my
garage at home. Right out of the gate, I was confused as to why the Roush engineers would have
the intercooler water tank storing hot water from the intercooler. The coolant was then directed to
the LT radiator/heat exchanger. In my opinion I would want cooler water to the largest volume of
coolant in the system. This was the first thing I modified. I built a 4 gallon aluminum tank and
rerouted the water flow so that the tank stored the water leaving the heat exchanger. I also
wanted to add ice when I went to the dyno or drag strip.
On to the dyno I went and with ice in the tank and a unknown temperature of the water. On the
first pull it made 632 whp 586 torque. A little disappointing with how much horse power the engine was
making. I was expecting closer to the 660 to 670 range. I tried a few things such as removing the
airfilter box cover and also removing the exhaust after the cats and gained very little with a best
of 657 whp and 593 torque. This is with an ambient temp of 76F and 59% humidity at sea level.
The torque was decreasing rapidly passed 5600 rpm. My theory is that roush pulls timing up top
when IAT2 values are high. Today I saw no higher than 106F IAT2, IAT was 90F.
I did not log the IAT2 on the 657 hp run.
Ever since I installed this roush kit, I've been intrigued by the system that is on the Dodge
Challenger Demon. Of course I found companies that sell kits such as Killer Chiller, Activechillers,
and Forced Induction Interchillers. FI definitely has the system figured out. I almost pulled the
trigger on the FI generic system, but the kit is quite expensive for me to experiment with my car.
I started finding the parts online and found that I could build one myself for a fraction of the cost.
A few major issues that I had to battle while attempting the project.
1) The cost of R1234YF refrigerant is akin to liquid gold.
2) How much is my cabin a/c going to be affected.
3) Will this project work with a variable displacement a/c compressor.
To keep this post from becoming war and peace, I will discuss the way I solved these problems
in a short summary. If you would like to learn more please private message me and I will try my
best to answer any questions that you may have.
1) I had my friends at a dealership recover the R1234YF then started the work. I knew that I
would have to trouble shoot leaks, so there was no way I could use this stuff. I did some searching
on the Hellcat forums and found a few guys switching back to R134A. They seemed to have good
luck and the temp and pressure charts are very close between the refrigerants. I did the same. I
charged my system with R134A and all so
far all is well after 1000 miles. Time will tell as to if the compressor will handle the different
refrigerant. Also I've read where R134A is more efficient at exchanging heat than the R1234YF is.
2) The short answer is YES. I may not have things set up quite right, however I read theory and
watched several videos discussing superheat and evaporator saturation. Fortunately I have a
friend with a recovery machine and I spent several hours trying to set the superheat value on the
TXV for the heat exchanger. The compressor in my application just doesn't pump enough volume
to supply enough refrigerant to both the heat exchanger and the cabin evaporator. At idle on a
hotday the cabin evaporator won't cool. If you rev the engine to 1000 rpm it cools ok. If you set the
superheat to low, the heat exchanger won't have enough refrigerant to evaporate. Set too high
and the cabin evaporator suffers and risk liquid refrigerant finding it's way back to the compressor.
3) It kind of works with this type of compressor. I noticed that the clutch will never cycle on the
compressor despite the temperature of the evaporator. This is of course due to the PCM having
control of the angle of the swash plate. I noticed when cruising down the highway with light heat
load on the cabin the intercooler water temp starts to rise. I then have to toggle a switch which
shuts off the refrigerant to the cabin evaporator. The PCM then increases the volume of the
compressor and cools the water back down. Kind of a PITA. I have to revisit this problem.
In conclusion this was a lot of work, but I gathered all the parts together myself which kept the
cost less than $350. Every mod that I did can be reversed in case the engine craps the bed.
In my opinion I would not purchase a kit and install onto a mustang with a variable
displacement compressor. The car will make more power especially during the summer time,
but not worth the headache that comes along with it. I hope this post will do some service to
help clear up any pondering that one may have about installing a system like this onto their car.
Thanks for taking the time to read this.
-Ryan View attachment 358758
I didn't come up with much, so I wanted to share my story. Please accept my apologies if this has
been done before.
Here are the specs, but first here is a...
DISCLAIMER
This is for recreational reading only, feel free to accept or disregard any anything I'm about to
say. I'm not a self proclaimed automotive engineer. I'm just a grease monkey that likes to
experiment with his car. Most will think that this was dumb thing to do on a new car, but I
thought it was a fun project and possibly it may help some may come to a decision as to
why or why not to install an intercooler chiller system on a forced inducted engine.
2018 Mustang GT MT82 3.55 Ring and pinon
Typewritter tick and piston slap factory option installed
Roush stage one supercharger kit With factory Roush Tune
Mcleod RXT clutch and flywheel
Factory exhaust system
Air filter cover removed
Backyard intercooler chiller system intercooler water temp 42F, Cabin evaporator shut off via
solenoid
74F, 70% humidity, 40ft above sea level Smoothing 5, SAE correction factor For previous run.
85F, 59% humidity, 40ft above sea level, " For today's run.
Dyno graph is pre and post interchiller.
Sorry for the crappy photo I didn't get the run file. I made one previous run to this one where
the car made 695.So it is repeatable horse power.
Just like everyone else that has bought a Roush kit, I was sucked in by the juicy warranty that the
company offers. My engine made healthy stock numbers: 430 whp and 402 ft lbs of torque.
Unfortunately I started the"tick" at about 1500 miles and the pistons sound like tin cans stuck in a
blender. The engine has about 4000miles with the blower and doesn't smoke or use oil, but still it
probably wasn't a genius idea to bolt on 240 extra hp of blower on one noisiest new car engines
I've ever heard. Ford says it's normal right? And in my opinion there is nothing better than a
handsome looking supercharger bolted on top of a giant looking V8.
I'm still a certified Master ASE mechanic, so I took it upon myself to install the supercharger in my
garage at home. Right out of the gate, I was confused as to why the Roush engineers would have
the intercooler water tank storing hot water from the intercooler. The coolant was then directed to
the LT radiator/heat exchanger. In my opinion I would want cooler water to the largest volume of
coolant in the system. This was the first thing I modified. I built a 4 gallon aluminum tank and
rerouted the water flow so that the tank stored the water leaving the heat exchanger. I also
wanted to add ice when I went to the dyno or drag strip.
On to the dyno I went and with ice in the tank and a unknown temperature of the water. On the
first pull it made 632 whp 586 torque. A little disappointing with how much horse power the engine was
making. I was expecting closer to the 660 to 670 range. I tried a few things such as removing the
airfilter box cover and also removing the exhaust after the cats and gained very little with a best
of 657 whp and 593 torque. This is with an ambient temp of 76F and 59% humidity at sea level.
The torque was decreasing rapidly passed 5600 rpm. My theory is that roush pulls timing up top
when IAT2 values are high. Today I saw no higher than 106F IAT2, IAT was 90F.
I did not log the IAT2 on the 657 hp run.
Ever since I installed this roush kit, I've been intrigued by the system that is on the Dodge
Challenger Demon. Of course I found companies that sell kits such as Killer Chiller, Activechillers,
and Forced Induction Interchillers. FI definitely has the system figured out. I almost pulled the
trigger on the FI generic system, but the kit is quite expensive for me to experiment with my car.
I started finding the parts online and found that I could build one myself for a fraction of the cost.
A few major issues that I had to battle while attempting the project.
1) The cost of R1234YF refrigerant is akin to liquid gold.
2) How much is my cabin a/c going to be affected.
3) Will this project work with a variable displacement a/c compressor.
To keep this post from becoming war and peace, I will discuss the way I solved these problems
in a short summary. If you would like to learn more please private message me and I will try my
best to answer any questions that you may have.
1) I had my friends at a dealership recover the R1234YF then started the work. I knew that I
would have to trouble shoot leaks, so there was no way I could use this stuff. I did some searching
on the Hellcat forums and found a few guys switching back to R134A. They seemed to have good
luck and the temp and pressure charts are very close between the refrigerants. I did the same. I
charged my system with R134A and all so
far all is well after 1000 miles. Time will tell as to if the compressor will handle the different
refrigerant. Also I've read where R134A is more efficient at exchanging heat than the R1234YF is.
2) The short answer is YES. I may not have things set up quite right, however I read theory and
watched several videos discussing superheat and evaporator saturation. Fortunately I have a
friend with a recovery machine and I spent several hours trying to set the superheat value on the
TXV for the heat exchanger. The compressor in my application just doesn't pump enough volume
to supply enough refrigerant to both the heat exchanger and the cabin evaporator. At idle on a
hotday the cabin evaporator won't cool. If you rev the engine to 1000 rpm it cools ok. If you set the
superheat to low, the heat exchanger won't have enough refrigerant to evaporate. Set too high
and the cabin evaporator suffers and risk liquid refrigerant finding it's way back to the compressor.
3) It kind of works with this type of compressor. I noticed that the clutch will never cycle on the
compressor despite the temperature of the evaporator. This is of course due to the PCM having
control of the angle of the swash plate. I noticed when cruising down the highway with light heat
load on the cabin the intercooler water temp starts to rise. I then have to toggle a switch which
shuts off the refrigerant to the cabin evaporator. The PCM then increases the volume of the
compressor and cools the water back down. Kind of a PITA. I have to revisit this problem.
In conclusion this was a lot of work, but I gathered all the parts together myself which kept the
cost less than $350. Every mod that I did can be reversed in case the engine craps the bed.
In my opinion I would not purchase a kit and install onto a mustang with a variable
displacement compressor. The car will make more power especially during the summer time,
but not worth the headache that comes along with it. I hope this post will do some service to
help clear up any pondering that one may have about installing a system like this onto their car.
Thanks for taking the time to read this.
-Ryan View attachment 358758
Sponsored
Last edited:
