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2019 Mustang GT idle thudding/knocking, authorized engine replacement

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Must have been some old stock Valvoline 5W-30. The dexos1 Gen2 SN+ formula has been out since May/Apr 2018. Walmart always seems to have it on the shelf.
They were all labeled "rollback" so most likely. I unfortunately did just hear some ticking while I was rolling the car onto the ramps. The car has been driving around for the last 30 minutes or so with several start and stop cycles. Oil temp read normal but cylinder head temp was reading at about 215 degrees F. I guess if I had to choose, I'd take the tick over the rattle.
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Must have been some old stock Valvoline 5W-30. The dexos1 Gen2 SN+ formula has been out since May/Apr 2018. Walmart always seems to have it on the shelf.
They were all labeled "rollback" so most likely.
Was it the Valvoline Advanced full synthetic, or some other formula?
 
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Was it the Valvoline Advanced full synthetic, or some other formula?
One was labeled "full synthetic" and one was labeled "full synthetic high mileage." That was the only synthetic options for valvoline. Half the shelf was mobil 1, then the rest was split between valvoline, pennzoil, and castrol. Then the diesel oil and individual quart bottles.
 

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Did anyone check to see if the particles stuck to a magnet or not? That could tell something.
Yes. Did check with a magnet and particles did stick. Dealer is just blowing me off at this point as this is happening with replacement engine! I am so done with Ford at this point
 

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Finally had some time to dig up some piston-to-cylinder clearance info on the Gen2 (2015-2017) Coyote. The manual mentions the clearance is before the application of the Grafal skirt coating, but the coating is only 20 microns thick so it really doesn't add much size to the piston max skirt diameter.

Grafal piston coating was invented and patented by Mahle, so it's possible the pistons were made by Mahle for the Coyote.
https://patents.google.com/patent/US20050087166

Gen2 Coyote piston-to-cylinder clearance spec is 0.0010-0.0023". Don't know what the Gen3 (2018+) Coyote is, but I'd think it's very similar. If someone has access to the factory service manual for the Gen3 Coyote please post what you can find.
Gen2 Coyote Engine Specs.jpg
Grafal Piston Skirt Coating-1.JPG
Grafal Piston Skirt Coating-2.JPG
 

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Alright just got it home. I think the thudding is still there but it doesn't make the rattle or bbq tick and it feels completely different. Clutch doesn't feel as sloppy and all the low end hesitation and lack of power that I was experiencing (all of which I thought was normal) is gone. What felt like a Mustang now feels like a refined sports car. She pulls hard from 2k rpms and shifts great. Hopefully this lasts!
I was planning to take mine for thudding/knocking that I can only hear inside. But like you said I have no patient left what I have been through with my 18.
I am really curious, if this thudding triggers the knock sensors and pull timing which makes the car slower.
In my case, sometimes car feels slower. Not sure if it is just me being paranoid, or temperature or really the timing due to knocking.
Mine only does it if push it hard and warm up the engine. well still very cold here, maybe it will do it all the time when weather gets better.
 

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All of these people tell you to drive the car and enjoy clearly didn't have the problem.... I DID and the knock was so loud and embarrassing at stop lights I had cars next to me asking what was wrong with it. Mine started on my 2018 gt gt premium with 6k miles after first oil change. The warmer the engine, the louder it got. Took to dealership, problem was narrowed to cylinder 3 and it was scoped and showed a lot of cylinder scoring. Ford has now sent a new long block. Meanwhile my car has been in dealership over a month while I still sit and pay on it. People told me the same thing, even made fun of me because I didn't know about the typewriter tick (newsflash, I did and knew this wasn't it). Sure I could have driven it until I blew the engine... But why the hell would you do that and risk it happening when out of warranty and also publicly embarrassing yourself with a broken 50k car?? Don't listen to the people that tell you that. Get your car fixed...and then when it doesn't again at next oil change....make Ford buy the damn lemon back. These engines need recalled but Ford won't do it because of the cost. I won't be buying another.
 

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All of these people tell you to drive the car and enjoy clearly didn't have the problem.... I DID and the knock was so loud and embarrassing at stop lights I had cars next to me asking what was wrong with it. Mine started on my 2018 gt gt premium with 6k miles after first oil change. The warmer the engine, the louder it got. Took to dealership, problem was narrowed to cylinder 3 and it was scoped and showed a lot of cylinder scoring. Ford has now sent a new long block. Meanwhile my car has been in dealership over a month while I still sit and pay on it. People told me the same thing, even made fun of me because I didn't know about the typewriter tick (newsflash, I did and knew this wasn't it). Sure I could have driven it until I blew the engine... But why the hell would you do that and risk it happening when out of warranty and also publicly embarrassing yourself with a broken 50k car?? Don't listen to the people that tell you that. Get your car fixed...and then when it doesn't again at next oil change....make Ford buy the damn lemon back. These engines need recalled but Ford won't do it because of the cost. I won't be buying another.
Not really. You had an example of a car with a real engine issue. Not a tick or 2k rattle that is normal. There's a difference. Not every motor that ticks is self destroying itself.
 

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Not really. You had an example of a car with a real engine issue. Not a tick or 2k rattle that is normal. There's a difference. Not every motor that ticks is self destroying itself.
It certainly doesn't, but it doesn't mean that you shouldn't get it checked out. If I had listened to everyone, I could have put myself into a lot of trouble. There are MANY documented cases of this issue online. I really don't understand why people are acting like it isn't a real issue. It's very frustrating.
 

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anytime i hear thuds an ticks I get on the expressway and floor it!! sounds quiet as a mouse afterwards!!
 

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All of these people tell you to drive the car and enjoy clearly didn't have the problem.... I DID and the knock was so loud and embarrassing at stop lights I had cars next to me asking what was wrong with it. Mine started on my 2018 gt gt premium with 6k miles after first oil change. The warmer the engine, the louder it got. Took to dealership, problem was narrowed to cylinder 3 and it was scoped and showed a lot of cylinder scoring. Ford has now sent a new long block. Meanwhile my car has been in dealership over a month while I still sit and pay on it. People told me the same thing, even made fun of me because I didn't know about the typewriter tick (newsflash, I did and knew this wasn't it). Sure I could have driven it until I blew the engine... But why the hell would you do that and risk it happening when out of warranty and also publicly embarrassing yourself with a broken 50k car?? Don't listen to the people that tell you that. Get your car fixed...and then when it doesn't again at next oil change....make Ford buy the damn lemon back. These engines need recalled but Ford won't do it because of the cost. I won't be buying another.
Come on, did you not read any of the posts on this forum? Only a few unlucky souls have had unsolicited engine problems that resulted in major fixes. In a few cases the "noises" were not even engine related and fixed for other reasons. I seriously feel bad for anyone that got a defective car, whether it was engine, paint, tranny etc related. You made the right move and had the dealer check it out and I hope you get whatever solution you feel warranted, however don't for a moment think it is every Mustang, because if is not. Also, don't believe everything you hear or see about Gen 3 issues since there is a lot of misinformation floating around. Again, sorry for your troubles and good luck getting it corrected. Come back and let us know how it turned out.
 

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I will say that Ford only hurts themselves with these noisy engines. The local car groups here all think the Coyote is plagued with piston slap.
 
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Noisy is relative. My dad has a 2018 Genesis G80 with a 5.0l (exact same displacement as the 2018+ 5.0) and it soinds awful. I'd rather have my chirping, bbq ticking engine. My new engine is also a bit noisier than my old, but once it's fully warmed up it hums (old one sounded worse). This leads into the "misinformation" notion. There's a huge thread associating the rattle we all hear with piston slap, but there's no proof that there's a correlation. I wasn't opposed to the theory, either, until rainy season hit and the rattle pretty much goes away after being out in a storm. Now unless water is getting into my engine, this tells me the rattle is external.

The only thing that bugs me is how much noisier the HPFP is compared to my old. It doesn't make me think something is defective, but that maybe something was just put together carelessly.
 

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Noisy is relative. My dad has a 2018 Genesis G80 with a 5.0l (exact same displacement as the 2018+ 5.0) and it soinds awful. I'd rather have my chirping, bbq ticking engine. My new engine is also a bit noisier than my old, but once it's fully warmed up it hums (old one sounded worse). This leads into the "misinformation" notion. There's a huge thread associating the rattle we all hear with piston slap, but there's no proof that there's a correlation. I wasn't opposed to the theory, either, until rainy season hit and the rattle pretty much goes away after being out in a storm. Now unless water is getting into my engine, this tells me the rattle is external.

The only thing that bugs me is how much noisier the HPFP is compared to my old. It doesn't make me think something is defective, but that maybe something was just put together carelessly.
My rattle only changed with A/C off vs on and adding oil additive. It's still there though, and I am pretty certain it is internal. There is a different rattle that occurs when cold, and it is specific to the clutch/trans. I can hear it when I hold the shifter to the side in first gear. This is my second V8 Mustang and the noisiest. The S197 was very quiet. It also sounds much worse than our BMW, which has an early DI system. It doesn't bother me that much, but it does give the engine a bad reputation.
 
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My rattle only changed with A/C off vs on and adding oil additive. It's still there though, and I am pretty certain it is internal. There is a different rattle that occurs when cold, and it is specific to the clutch/trans. I can hear it when I hold the shifter to the side in first gear. This is my second V8 Mustang and the noisiest. The S197 was very quiet. It also sounds much worse than our BMW, which has an early DI system. It doesn't bother me that much, but it does give the engine a bad reputation.
There is a rattle/thud (what I originally brought it in for) associated with the A/C that apparently is fixed with a tensioner kit. These engines do make a lot of noise. There's also a chirp that sounds almost identical to belt chirp but is caused by the cam chain tensioners. My replacement engine has this and two members so far have confirmed replacing the tensioner fixes the sound. One member noted that there was no measurable damage or wear, however, reinforcing Ford's statement that it causes no durability issues. It's just annoying, but goes away within minutes.

The sound I distinctly remember, from my old engine, was a metallic clanging sound that would persist at any engine temp. Process of elimination would say that this is the sound associated with my camshaft bouncing around, warranting a longblock. It's a sound I have not heard in any other user posted video, nor on my new engine, fortunately.
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