2018 GT A10 jerking into gear

[18 Smoke]

I assume you can’t get the trans update if you have an aftermarket tune ?

Not sure about that. My dealer is pretty mod friendly. Maybe load stock tune on site, get trans update then load tune back before even starting the car. Guess it wouldn’t hurt to ask

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[olaosunt]

Yeah
My dealer is pretty mod friendly too .
They have done all the work on my cars except for the occasional engine R&R my buddy has done since they jacked up their previous “performance rate @ for $65/hour to the regular $110/hour

They will be doing The Mcleod clutches too . When I asked the transmission guy about the transmission updates he said Ige did not think it would work with an aftermarket tune ???

 

[18 Smoke]

Yeah
My dealer is pretty mod friendly too .
They have done all the work on my cars except for the occasional engine R&R my buddy has done since they jacked up their previous “performance rate @ for $65/hour to the regular $110/hour

They will be doing The Mcleod clutches too . When I asked the transmission guy about the transmission updates he said Ige did not think it would work with an aftermarket tune ???

I’d probably check with your tuner, but that may be true. I do know that the update was never mentioned when Rob did the remote tune on my car. I plan on having Beefcake do my trans rebuild when I need it. He’s only about an hour away from me

 

[olaosunt]

Good choice on having Beefcake do it .

I am just about an hour and a half from him and the quote was pretty good too @2150 including the clutches . My dealer wants $1700 for the labor so plus $600 for the clutches that’s a little more.
He did tell me the shop/finish line was booking 3-4 weeks out .
Since my car is “down” (still runs fine except under load at the drag strip ) I got inpatient and ordered the clutches (from different vendor as was a little cheaper with my points) but it’s already been a couple of weeks as they can’t get me in till next week .

Transmission guy here said he had never taken the 10r80 apart before so that makes me a little nervous ... and thinking I should have just gone to beefcake .

I doubt beefcake/finish line with do that install price if I am bringing my own parts .....unless may be I buy a circle D converter from Beefcake and they do it at the same time .
Not 100% sure I need one though and it’s another $2K if you are not sending yours In as a core .

 

[18 Smoke]

Good choice on having Beefcake do it .

I am just about an hour and a half from him and the quote was pretty good too @2150 including the clutches . My dealer wants $1700 for the labor so plus $600 for the clutches that’s a little more.
He did tell me the shop/finish line was booking 3-4 weeks out .
Since my car is “down” (still runs fine except under load at the drag strip ) I got inpatient and ordered the clutches (from different vendor as was a little cheaper with my points) but it’s already been a couple of weeks as they can’t get me in till next week .

Transmission guy here said he had never taken the 10r80 apart before so that makes me a little nervous ... and thinking I should have just gone to beefcake .

I doubt beefcake/finish line with do that install price if I am bringing my own parts .....unless may be I buy a circle D converter from Beefcake and they do it at the same time .
Not 100% sure I need one though and it’s another $2K if you are not sending yours In as a core .

Not sure if I’ll do it at the same time, depends on when I have to do it, but I definitely plan on getting the converter as well. 3200 rpm launches sounds like fun to me!

 

[olaosunt]

Not sure if I’ll do it at the same time, depends on when I have to do it, but I definitely plan on getting the converter as well. 3200 rpm launches sounds like fun to me!

My thinking was it would save on labor if done at the same time .
I am not sure what kind of lead time /down time if sending in versus keeping your stock converter.


So do you think the converter will help the 60 that much ?
I can see how it would help with a turbo car , just not sure what kind of gains in a PD car .

I was getting mid 1.5x launching @1500 rpm with the stock converter and 3.55’s

Not sure If I would need a launch a little higher or lower with the 3.31’s but cars with the 3.15 rear have seen 1.4x or even lower with the stock converter .
After paying $600 labor for the rear end swap I am going to have to make the 3.31’s work .

 

[18 Smoke]

My thinking was it would save on labor if done at the same time .
I am not sure what kind of lead time /down time if sending in versus keeping your stock converter.


So do you think the converter will help the 60 that much ?
I can see how it would help with a turbo car , just not sure what kind of gains in a PD car .

I was getting mid 1.5x launching @1500 rpm with the stock converter and 3.55’s

Not sure If I would need a launch a little higher or lower with the 3.31’s but cars with the 3.15 rear have seen 1.4x or even lower with the stock converter .
After paying $600 labor for the rear end swap I am going to have to make the 3.31’s work .

I’m not sure how much it would help either. Gotta be some I’d guess. I’m fighting traction issues leaving in 1st w/ 3.55. Leaving in 2nd, best 60 is 1.7. It leaves like a school bus. Lol
I think I’ve got it figured out and hope to hook in 1st next time out, but I will be going to 3.15 in the near future

 

[olaosunt]

I’m not sure how much it would help either. Gotta be some I’d guess. I’m fighting traction issues leaving in 1st w/ 3.55. Leaving in 2nd, best 60 is 1.7. It leaves like a school bus. Lol
I think I’ve got it figured out and hope to hook in 1st next time out, but I will be going to 3.15 in the near future

What tire ?
At what rpm are you leaving ?
My 60 is worse with more than 1500 rpm .
The 1.5’s were with now pretty worn 28 inch ET R’s as well as my street tires-27.4 tall MT SS.

The only suspension mod I have is the BMR cradle lock out out . It’s lowered with eibach springs and I suspect that may be hurting things with the magneride.

 

[18 Smoke]

What tire ?
At what rpm are you leaving ?
My 60 is worse with more than 1500 rpm .
The 1.5’s were with now pretty worn 28 inch ET R’s as well as my street tires-27.4 tall MT SS.

The only suspension mod I have is the BMR cradle lock out out . It’s lowered with eibach springs and I suspect that may be hurting things with the magneride.

New 28” R leaving@1500. I think it was more shitty track prep than anything. Only been out twice. 4 passes total. Now I’ve got BMR Drag springs and Steeda Stage 1 and 2 drag packs. I’ve got it on the 750 tune as well. Don’t want to turn it up till I get it to hook. Oh and no magneride

 

[Kbru14]

Mine is really nasty going into drive...unless you have driven an hour or so. So we shall see when It goes to the dealer.

 

[zirfj312]

I have the same jerking into Drive. Most notable when the tranny temps are cold. Downshift's hard when coming to a stop. I've followed other posts and reflashing generally does the trick - I hope.

 

[trewon1]

I had mine reflashed today. So far so good. My car was in for about 45 minutes maybe.

 

[Kbru14]

Went to the dealership yesterday, Trans tech thinks it's a valve body concern. Wants me to bring it back so he can pull the pan and check for metal, said he would probably order a valve body......Looks like this is becoming more of a problem...

 

[BWG]

My valve body was replaced today as far as I know. We'll see tomorrow. 18 GT. Mine was lunging, reving, sputtering, dying, ticking.... it also stopped making me sandwiches.

 

[Lo Pony]

My late-'18 A10 with the 3.55 ratio isn't harsh when shifting into D or R, and it's not harsh in Normal drive mode---but put in in Sport or Track, and it puts a lot of kick into some of the shifts (but not others). At full throttle it's fine because the shift shock is kind of absorbed by the drivetrain load and the g-forces already going on. But at light or medium throttle, it often upshifts with a big jolt for no apparent reason. Enough to hurt my lower back and mess up my throttle control through driver-induced oscillation. Does that sound normal? If it was actually broken or if the line pressure was off, wouldn't it set a check engine light, or the wrench light, or some code?

I don't really want to go to the dealer with this until I know more. I don't trust dealers and I don't want the car to be out of service for days or weeks over what might just be "normal" operation for the sport mode.

my 2019 does the same. The torque converter is locked solid, so it will feel like a manual transmission under the conditions you described. I consider it normal. Brace your right leg against the center console when you accelerate, that will take care of it.

Otherwise, I have definitely noticed misbehavior when cold. Doesn’t concern me. I let it warm up, then it’s fine.

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