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turnswrench
turnswrench
- Thread starter
- #436
Alright stage 2 folks, how many of these new spacers should I have on there. I thought it was one, but two came. Just want to be sure. Anyone confirm?
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2018 Royal Crimson F1A94 Procharged, TH400 Drag Project
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turnswrench
turnswrench
- Thread starter
- #437
I also need to torque value for procharger pulley, I don't remember where I got it earlier this year to swap the pulley. I can't seem to track it down either
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turnswrench
turnswrench
- Thread starter
- #439
Thank you!
Jay-rod427
Well-Known Member
Just for the record your caliper is not near accurate enough for measuring the crank and hub. You need precision down to 4 decimal places.... also a bore micrometer to get accurate measurements rather than standard slide caliper.
No offense, but this is classic what I call installer error on the snapped cranks threads/posts. It is not a shade tree mechanic procedure.
No offense, but this is classic what I call installer error on the snapped cranks threads/posts. It is not a shade tree mechanic procedure.
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Jay-rod427
Well-Known Member
Some instructions I wrote out for a guy a while back.
1. Remove old balancer of course, and take a razor blade and clean the silicon off of the key. It will prob be quite the pita to pull off. 2. On the new ati hub have it precision measured to 4 decimal places (.0001"). This requires some specialty tools any engine machine shop will have. Typically a telescoping bore gauge. 3. Measure your crank snout also to 4 decimal places. If you have a micrometer or borrow one that goes to .0001". 4. The balancer hub should be between .0008-.0012" SMALLER in diameter than the crank snout. 5. If needed the balancer hub can be honed by a machine shop to within that spec range. 6. Assemble the balancer and torque and loctite bolts. 7. Take a standard caliper that measures at least 3 decimal places and use the back end piece that sticks out when measuring and measure from the front of the crank snout to the face of the crank timing gear sprocket. Record this depth. 8. Using same method place the balancer on a smooth flat surface and measure the depth of the hub. Record this measurement. Calculate this difference and that value will be needed later. 9. Thread the installer tool into the crankshaft by hand until it bottoms out then back it out 1-2 turns. 10. Lube the crank snout with anti-sieze, and silicon on the key. 11. Place the balancer over the installer and put the installer cup and bearing on it and start the nut. 12. Tighten the nut on the installer until it contacts the balancer hub, and make sure the balancer is started on square in line with the crank and the key way is lined up. 13. Start tightening the nut on the installer pulling the balancer on. 14. Keep installing until it is seated and it gets very hard to turn the installer nut without turning over the engine. IF AT ANY POINT UNTIL SEATED YOU HAVE TO FORCE IT SOMETHING IS NOT RIGHT. 15. Once you think the balancer is seated remover the installer stud. 16. Take calipers again with the backside stick out piece and measure depth from hub face to crank snout face. This depth should very well match within a couple thousandths the calculated depth from earlier. 17. Apply blue loctite to the arp bolt, and arp assembly lube to the faces of the washer and head of the bolt. 18. Install bolt and washer and torque to 110 ft/lbs. You will have to hold the engine from turning over to get that torque. MAF also sells a flywheel locking tool, but you have to remove the starter which is a bit of a pain. I made a plate that utilizes 2/3 balancer bolts with a 1/2" extension welded to it. I just remove one bolt and bolt this plate to the balancer, torque crank, and remove the plate then reinstall the bolt. 19. Put all the rest back together!
1. Remove old balancer of course, and take a razor blade and clean the silicon off of the key. It will prob be quite the pita to pull off. 2. On the new ati hub have it precision measured to 4 decimal places (.0001"). This requires some specialty tools any engine machine shop will have. Typically a telescoping bore gauge. 3. Measure your crank snout also to 4 decimal places. If you have a micrometer or borrow one that goes to .0001". 4. The balancer hub should be between .0008-.0012" SMALLER in diameter than the crank snout. 5. If needed the balancer hub can be honed by a machine shop to within that spec range. 6. Assemble the balancer and torque and loctite bolts. 7. Take a standard caliper that measures at least 3 decimal places and use the back end piece that sticks out when measuring and measure from the front of the crank snout to the face of the crank timing gear sprocket. Record this depth. 8. Using same method place the balancer on a smooth flat surface and measure the depth of the hub. Record this measurement. Calculate this difference and that value will be needed later. 9. Thread the installer tool into the crankshaft by hand until it bottoms out then back it out 1-2 turns. 10. Lube the crank snout with anti-sieze, and silicon on the key. 11. Place the balancer over the installer and put the installer cup and bearing on it and start the nut. 12. Tighten the nut on the installer until it contacts the balancer hub, and make sure the balancer is started on square in line with the crank and the key way is lined up. 13. Start tightening the nut on the installer pulling the balancer on. 14. Keep installing until it is seated and it gets very hard to turn the installer nut without turning over the engine. IF AT ANY POINT UNTIL SEATED YOU HAVE TO FORCE IT SOMETHING IS NOT RIGHT. 15. Once you think the balancer is seated remover the installer stud. 16. Take calipers again with the backside stick out piece and measure depth from hub face to crank snout face. This depth should very well match within a couple thousandths the calculated depth from earlier. 17. Apply blue loctite to the arp bolt, and arp assembly lube to the faces of the washer and head of the bolt. 18. Install bolt and washer and torque to 110 ft/lbs. You will have to hold the engine from turning over to get that torque. MAF also sells a flywheel locking tool, but you have to remove the starter which is a bit of a pain. I made a plate that utilizes 2/3 balancer bolts with a 1/2" extension welded to it. I just remove one bolt and bolt this plate to the balancer, torque crank, and remove the plate then reinstall the bolt. 19. Put all the rest back together!
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turnswrench
turnswrench
- Thread starter
- #442
OP
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turnswrench
turnswrench
- Thread starter
- #443
I don't want you or anyone else to think I don't appreciate the support and guidance. You are entirely right and the precision that is often required is overlooked due to lack of knowledge, time, money, etc.. I'm an intelligent person with a fair amount of success under my belt, but I'm not immune to stupidity and brashness on occasion.
Hang with me and we'll eventually, collectively, have something worthwhile.
Jay-rod427
Well-Known Member
I don’t know what is needed for that setup. I made my own shim to the exact thickness to perfectly line up the pulley with the others. Put one on and put a straight edge on the pulley and see how it lines up with the idler and other pulleys.
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turnswrench
turnswrench
- Thread starter
- #445
Can I get a confirmation that these two idler pullies touch and don't spin independently of each other? I feel like this is a chance for extra heat and squealing, but maybe it's fine if they touch and spin as one unit across two belts?
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ahl395
Well-Known Member
With the included spacer in there they should be able to rotate independently of each otherCan I get a confirmation that these two idler pullies touch and don't spin independently of each other? I feel like this is a chance for extra heat and squealing, but maybe it's fine if they touch and spin as one unit across two belts?
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turnswrench
turnswrench
- Thread starter
- #447
Thank you for the fast response! Mine do not. The outside circumference of the pullies actually touch. I'll see if a little washer of the right diameter gets me there.
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turnswrench
turnswrench
- Thread starter
- #448
I found the procharger p series blower pulley torque value to be 40lbs for anyone reading.
JPSTANG
Well-Known Member
Absolutely do not touch, mine has like an 1/8inch between them!! Sorry I was late to the party, but figured I would give ya what mine is.Can I get a confirmation that these two idler pullies touch and don't spin independently of each other? I feel like this is a chance for extra heat and squealing, but maybe it's fine if they touch and spin as one unit across two belts?
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turnswrench
turnswrench
- Thread starter
- #450
Thanks for confirming. I'm trying to sort it out. I've tried the pulley both ways now. One way is better than the other but it seems like it touches either way, it's odd. Wonder if the bearing of the factory idler is offset somehow.
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