Do you have audio questions?

[Joe 5.0]

OP, what are your thoughts on the Tomtop unit for a base model car? It can be had for $200 (which is super cheap), but I’m still justifying the cost. Besides the larger screen that it offers, nothing else really changes.

Sure, I’ll get navigation via the unit, but I use Google Maps or Waze on my phone for navigation.

Is it worth the upgrade?

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[FreedomPenguin]

I have to say, I have the 17 eb premium 9 speaker system stock, I changed out the rear two speakers and installed gto629 JBL speakers 3ohm vs stock 4ohm. Being less ohms lets them play a little more evident and once I disabled the factory EQ via forescan the stock system sounds really good, like I am perfectly happy with how it sounds now to be honest.

I left the treble acentuator button turned off as it sounded more natural, wish I would of done all this before I bought my JL StealthBox, but hey! once I install that it'll sound amazing reducing some of the bass from the overall system and pushing to the jl sub.

Now I have a question, in order to take some of the bass duties off the interior speakers, how should I be adjusting the subwoofer? I am hooking it up via stock wiring (installing a stock 12 speaker dsp with Hextall wiring so it'll be RCA's to factory)

I guess to rephrase this, for the stock speakers to sound their best, where should the sliders be on the midrange bass and bass setting. I will set the speakers to that, and then set the gain/bass adjust afterwards. Will I need to set the bass to 0 then raise the gain/bass/etc on the amp to empower a little? Should I keep ANY bass above middle line for the stock speakers?

 

[husseinr19]

I have a question. How can I go about adding a subwoofer to my 2017 GT Premium with shaker audio? Currently, there is no sub so I assume its not the pro. How can I add a sub? What do I need?

 

[Vicr]

I have a question. How can I go about adding a subwoofer to my 2017 GT Premium with shaker audio? Currently, there is no sub so I assume its not the pro. How can I add a sub? What do I need?

Google LC2i and add an amp to power the sub. See post 199.

 

[ahl395]

I have a question. How can I go about adding a subwoofer to my 2017 GT Premium with shaker audio? Currently, there is no sub so I assume its not the pro. How can I add a sub? What do I need?

Hook up a line out converter to the rear speaker wires. The line out converter will give you RCAs you can hook up to your sub amp. You can use a basic cheap one for $10-15 or a higher end one like the LC2i that gives you some adjustments with it.

 

[badhac]

Ok so I just bought a used 2015 with the Shaker 9-speaker stereo. I've noticed that if I turn the volume up close to half the center channel starts popping, sometimes even at a lover volume level depending on the song. Is is a setting as far as bass, mid, trebble? Or is the speaker is crap?

 

[Vicr]

Ok so I just bought a used 2015 with the Shaker 9-speaker stereo. I've noticed that if I turn the volume up close to half the center channel starts popping, sometimes even at a lover volume level depending on the song. Is is a setting as far as bass, mid, trebble? Or is the speaker is crap?

Sounds like a torn speaker cone or blown voice coil.

 

[Niz55]

On the DSR1,

Do you have to add an aftermarket amp or you just remove your factory amp plug this in and that's it?

 

[ean611]

On the DSR1,

Do you have to add an aftermarket amp or you just remove your factory amp plug this in and that's it?

DSR1 with the maestro F03 wiring will disable the factory amp, and give you wires to put your own in.

That being said, I'm trying something "crazy" as soon as my Mouser order arrives. I'm going to make a T harness for the OEM (Shaker Pro) amp, where I intercept the line level signal from the Sync 3 head unit, and I'm going to run them into the DSR1. This is 4 channel. I'm going to then do a 4 channel output back to the factory amplifier. If this works, I can make a second T harness for the sub channel, as the sub is a line level output from the Shaker Pro amp, and I can do the same thing to control the sub.

Will this work? Probably. Will this work well? I have no idea. I'll find out, and if it doesn't, I have my eye on a set of Hybrid Audio 3 way fronts to install

 

[Canoman]

On the DSR1,

Do you have to add an aftermarket amp or you just remove your factory amp plug this in and that's it?

DSR1 is not an amplifier. It gives you preamp output. You have to have an aftermarket amplifier if you want to use a DSR1.

 

[ean611]

DSR1 with the maestro F03 wiring will disable the factory amp, and give you wires to put your own in.

That being said, I'm trying something "crazy" as soon as my Mouser order arrives. I'm going to make a T harness for the OEM (Shaker Pro) amp, where I intercept the line level signal from the Sync 3 head unit, and I'm going to run them into the DSR1. This is 4 channel. I'm going to then do a 4 channel output back to the factory amplifier. If this works, I can make a second T harness for the sub channel, as the sub is a line level output from the Shaker Pro amp, and I can do the same thing to control the sub.

Will this work? Probably. Will this work well? I have no idea. I'll find out, and if it doesn't, I have my eye on a set of Hybrid Audio 3 way fronts to install

If anyone's interested. This worked perfectly. (Insofar as I have full EQ control of Shaker stereo).

First pass of tuning results: Boomyness is gone. This stereo had a massive bump at 100Hz (mid bass) that I flattened out, sound is a lot cleaner now.

Nest step, a few more passes of tuning to make sure the sub is loud enough. The "problem" now is that the sub channel is not fully controllable. Next step to add more control is to find the Molex connectors for the connector seen here and make a bridge for the Sub output. It should be line level, and I could run it into the DSR1 to add better control, while still routing back to factory wire. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/stereo-information-wiring-upgrades-etc.25501/page-7

EDIT: The big thing to make sure to do when tuning the factory radio like this: make sure that after EQing all channels, measure output volume with the mic where your head goes, and radio in "driver only" mode. When you compare front left to front right, they should be the same volume. Same with the rear left vs rear right.

 

[Niz55]

So using a DSR1, how many channel amp I need to run my front stage speakers only? Rear speakers are disabled.

My car has the shaker sound with center speaker , tweeters, mids and woofers.

 

[Niz55]

Also, when shopping for speakers , do I replace the door woofers with mid bass drivers?

 

[ean611]

So using a DSR1, how many channel amp I need to run my front stage speakers only? Rear speakers are disabled.

My car has the shaker sound with center speaker , tweeters, mids and woofers.

Also, when shopping for speakers , do I replace the door woofers with mid bass drivers?

You need as many channels as you want to run. You could run the front stage off of two channels with a 3 way crossover. You could use 4 channels, if you use an active crossover for the midbass/midrange, and then passive for the tweeter. You could use 6 channel if you want to go 3 way active on the front. Totally up to what you want to do. (Assumes you want no center channel, it'll need an amp channel if you want it).

If you're replacing amps, I'd replace the door woofers.

 

[Canoman]

So using a DSR1, how many channel amp I need to run my front stage speakers only? Rear speakers are disabled.

My car has the shaker sound with center speaker , tweeters, mids and woofers.

Depends on your goals. If you want to do fully-active fronts with time alignment for each speaker, you'd have to have 6 channels for the front left and right (tweeter x 2, midrange x 2, woofer x 2) plus center, plus sub. From what I've seen online, on a DSR1, people usually use two channels on the DSP linked for a single sub output. You'd then need 9 channels, but the DSR1 is only 8 channels. So you couldn't do that setup with the DSR1. If time alignment isn't your goal, then as @ean611 said, you could run any combination of passive crossovers and use the DSR1 to actively cross over the rest of the speakers, or to just provide EQ.

Personally, I don't see a point in using the center channel, so if you don't want rear speakers, and want to do active crossover on a 3-way set of components up front with a sub, then the DSR1 would work well for that, channel-wise. Then, for the amplifier, you'd need a total of 7 channels. 6 for the components, 1 for the sub. You could accomplish this with either a 6-channel combined with a monoblock, or you could do an 8 channel with 2 channels bridged for the sub.

For a good primer on the DSR1, check this out:

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