olaosunt
Well-Known Member
I was excited to be able to got the car back on the dyno and try the new firmware features especially adding timing since I had 10 gallons of 260 GTP (104 octane)
in the tank .
First pull(6) was with 3.75 pulley / +3.2 timing(peak was 21*) and no knock but it only made 722 SAE and barely 500 torque- Much less than it made with old tune 93/boostane(4) but the power curve(and timing ) looked better.
I decided to drop down to a 3.625(7) but it knocked with +3.2 timing . Backing down to +2.4 timing it did not knock and made most power to date(8). I added a can of boostane to the tank and tried again adding +3.2 but it still knocked .
The next day we decided to do back to back pulls starting with zero timing up to 2.4* . No knock with zero and +0.8 but it started knocking with only 1.6 added this time(14) and off course +2.4 also knocked (15).
I then tried a 3.5 pulley (no graph) with zero timing added and saw no knock but zero power gain.
Not really sure what's going on but I am going to pull the cats off to see if that may be the issue(I tested them at ford a few months ago and they were good)
I have decided I am going to do a Lund E85 tune and ordered a return fuel system/ID1300's. Hopefully the whipple tune is the issue and I can get mid 800's at least with the 3.5 pulley.
I am hoping I can get a little more out of the Whipple tune before then though as I have 50 gallons of race gas sitting in my garage. lol
Just be careful with pulleys (see above )That is a great running engine. So many people get so hung up on peak numbers. Look at that curve, or lack there of. Flat as a board. That is a nice running engine right there. No severe dips or strange curves or spikes. I think there's a lot to be said about that.
I had pulled down to a 3.5 pulley running Maximal-C16 equivalent or at minimum supreme (112 octane ) after deleting my cats
Multiple dyno pulls - see above - saw some knock with the whipple tune /guardian /adding 0.8 timing on the dyno but zero knock on the street with up to 1.6 added . I wondered if the less than I expected power could be clutch slipping .
Car was running strong and I was just going through the rest of my race gas before the planned switch to E85 /ID1300/triple pumps when I made a pull on the street . - I had been getting some high rpm hesitation /random misfire codes that went away when I switched plugs but then came back without codes -so was getting some logs
Got the hesitation again at about 6500 - when I slowed down car was making some tapping noises I swore were from the valve cover .
Shop pulled the covers and said they could not see anything amiss so they pulled the pan and saw 3 bent rods .
Long block has been shipped to Will@RPG(also whipple ) for breakdown and hopeful diagnosis of why rods bent .
Block may need to be sleeved if PTWA lining is damaged by pistons /altered geometry as can’t be re-homed.
If so then will also upgrade to diamond pistons /Manley GT 350 specific H beams (I may consider I beams) of course since rods are done .
I will also have him of course go through the top end - swap springs and anytime else he recommends
I have a “spare “ engine I was tempted to drop in while I wait but I will have to pay for labor so that would be “ double R&R “
I can put that money towards a mantic clutch .
I may send the “spare engine “ in later for him to go through since it’s never been run /upgrade rods .
Long block shipped off last Friday .
Keeping spare as is for now .
Sponsored