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valentinoamoro

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I still really like it. The handling predictability and feel is a lot better overall.

Two negatives I've found:
1) The arms decrease the track width of the front. With larger diameter (greater than say 27.3") tires, it may rub on the inner fender liner.
2) That same decrease in track width also limits the amount of negative camber you can dial in. With my BMR plates nearly all the way over, I'm only at -2.0.
Ugh, the rubbing is not ideal. Have you considered spacers?
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khsonic03

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I still really like it. The handling predictability and feel is a lot better overall.

Two negatives I've found:
1) The arms decrease the track width of the front. With larger diameter (greater than say 27.3") tires, it may rub on the inner fender liner.
2) That same decrease in track width also limits the amount of negative camber you can dial in. With my BMR plates nearly all the way over, I'm only at -2.0.
Interesting. Any idea how much the track width is impacted? I would think reducing track width would keep the tires further from the front liner during lock to lock steering. Or is it rubbing on the inboard area of the fender liner?

I havent installed them yet, but I bought these, sp083r, and camber bolts. Now I'm wondering if I'll be able to dial in enough neg camber. Only trying to get -1.5 though...
 
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Ugh, the rubbing is not ideal. Have you considered spacers?
Yes, I have. With 285/35R19s like you have, you should be fine.

Interesting. Any idea how much the track width is impacted? I would think reducing track width would keep the tires further from the front liner during lock to lock steering. Or is it rubbing on the inboard area of the fender liner?

I havent installed them yet, but I bought these, sp083r, and camber bolts. Now I'm wondering if I'll be able to dial in enough neg camber. Only trying to get -1.5 though...
Not sure exactly. My guess would be in the range of 5-8 mm on each side. And yes the rub is only at full lock (and not even my car, a friend's with a tad more drop and 27.6" ID tires). Mine are definitely close to the liner though.
 

khsonic03

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Yes, I have. With 285/35R19s like you have, you should be fine.


Not sure exactly. My guess would be in the range of 5-8 mm on each side. And yes the rub is only at full lock (and not even my car, a friend's with a tad more drop and 27.6" ID tires). Mine are definitely close to the liner though.
Doh. Mine are 27.6 diameter too :( I do have pretty aggressive offsets though and it sounds like you are saying its rubbing on the inboard liner, so hopefully I'll be ok. Also, probably nothing that a heat gun and some pressure can't fix :)

That's a little disappointing though about the track width decrease; didn't even consider that when purchasing them.
 
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Doh. Mine are 27.6 diameter too :( I do have pretty aggressive offsets though and it sounds like you are saying its rubbing on the inboard liner, so hopefully I'll be ok. Also, probably nothing that a heat gun and some pressure can't fix :)

That's a little disappointing though about the track width decrease; didn't even consider that when purchasing them.
I think the benefits are still worth it. I'm going to try a 5 mm spacer on the front and see what it's like after that.
 

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Brembos went on 5-1-19 :sunglasses::rockon::rockon:. 3.73 torsen pumpkin and BMR front swaybar next weekend!
0504190909.jpg
0504191622_HDR.jpg
 
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No benefits in adjustable toe links? I thought the base and PP links were different?
Other than being easier to adjust and no eccentric to possibly slip (unlikely)? No. EB (non PP) and V6 cars have a different toe link.
 
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Well, things didn't go as planned today. I'll start with the good: I was able to install rear control arms with the BMR BK055 bearings, and while I was doing everything, I replaced the axle nuts with the new ones. The BK055 so far has zero negatives. The ride is similar, though actually improved in a few areas. The biggest improvement comes in the way the rear grip feels. As the car rolls the grip builds very linearly, and very consistently. It also seems to load the tires with less impulse, while at the same time allowing the rear to be more reactive and responsive. No noises, all positive.

Oh, and if you want to see how bad the bushing bind is (that the BK055 fixes), WOW!



Unfortunately, the bad: unknown to me and I presume many others, the GT350 differential pinion flange is different from the manual flange on 2015-2017 GTs. It appears to be the same as the 2018 GT manual flange.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/differential-flanges-any-experts.120933/

The worst part is, it was not made clear until after the diff was fully bolted up into the car. This means that instead of 5 hrs, it took 8.
 

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Sorry about the diff issues, but glad you finally got the RLCA bearings on!
 

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Is that bushing bind, or are the bushings a rubber bushing that aren't torqued down until ride height is set with weight on the suspension? If they're done like old school suspension bushings, the thru-bolts don't get tightened up until weight is on the suspension. This keeps the bushings from having a pre-load by being torqued down with the suspension hanging. That will kill the bushings in short order, especially if the bushing material is thin. Lots of stress due to being twisted beyond their expected working range. Apologies if you're aware of all this, but I haven't personally dealt with any of my car's suspension bits so I can only draw on my Mopar muscle car experience...
 

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Crazy isnt it?

@TicTocTach yes you are correct. They're a bonded rubber bushing. Bmac is simply showing how tight they are when being loaded, just as the suspension moves when driving or racing. There is nothing good about a bonded rubber bushing in a suspension pivot point, except NVH reduction.
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