GT350 OEM, Aftermarket and Maintenance Parts/Tools to Make Life Easier

[RugbyRef]

Not sure if this has been posted before, but perhaps someone can use it at some point.

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[Tank]

Not sure if this has been posted before, but perhaps someone can use it at some point.

Thanks @RugbyRef . I’ll add a link to your post titled “OEM Wheel and Tire Specs” unless you’d prefer something different.

 

[RugbyRef]

Thanks @RugbyRef . I’ll add a link to your post titled “OEM Wheel and Tire Specs” unless you’d prefer something different.

Sounds good to me Tank! No need to change anything...glad I could contribute.

Tim

 

[tracktardicus]

New part number for rear brake caliper bolts: W719117-S439

I am still getting conflicting information on whether or not these are single-use. Two dealerships have told me they re-use and loc-tite the existing bolts. Does anyone have anything official from Ford from a service manual or other source that confirms these should be discarded once the calipers are removed?

https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__/Caliper-Bolt-HEX-Mount/68008376/W719117S439.html

 

[AdamIsAdam]

Well, these guys seem to think they are one time use, but then again, they sell parts:
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2200B350/mustang-shelby-gt350-r-replacement-front-caliper-bolts-15-17

But why not use the stud replacements? Then you won't have to replace the bolts every time or worry about it:
https://www.opmustang.com/store/p272/Caliperfexion_CT10_4340_Stud_Kit_.html#/

 

[Tank]

New part number for rear brake caliper bolts: W719117-S439

I am still getting conflicting information on whether or not these are single-use. Two dealerships have told me they re-use and loc-tite the existing bolts. Does anyone have anything official from Ford from a service manual or other source that confirms these should be discarded once the calipers are removed?

https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__/Caliper-Bolt-HEX-Mount/68008376/W719117S439.html

Here's the pic from the "16 Helm. Does NOT show them being discarded so I would think that means they are reusable...

 

[Tank]

But why not use the stud replacements? Then you won't have to replace the bolts every time or worry about it:
https://www.opmustang.com/store/p272/Caliperfexion_CT10_4340_Stud_Kit_.html#/

Those are for the fronts only.

 

[havasu486]

Well, these guys seem to think they are one time use, but then again, they sell parts:
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2200B350/mustang-shelby-gt350-r-replacement-front-caliper-bolts-15-17

But why not use the stud replacements? Then you won't have to replace the bolts every time or worry about it:
https://www.opmustang.com/store/p272/Caliperfexion_CT10_4340_Stud_Kit_.html#/

The one time use comes from Ford. You would be surprised how many bolts the service procedure call for replacement. That being said to reuse or install another set of stock bolts is foolish. I believe the torque spec is 125 foot pounds into the aluminum steering knuckle. Those Caliperflexion studs are the way to go. Especially if you track your car.

 

[Tank]

The one time use comes from Ford. You would be surprised how many bolts the service procedure call for replacement. That being said to reuse or install another set of stock bolts is foolish. I believe the torque spec is 125 foot pounds into the aluminum steering knuckle. Those Caliperflexion studs are the way to go. Especially if you track your car.

Wasn’t the original question about the rear caliper bolts?

@Epiphany .... does Caliperfexion market replacement bolts for the rear calipers?

 

[Epiphany]

@Epiphany .... does Caliperfexion market replacement bolts for the rear calipers?

Caliperfexion is only in the stud business and since the rear calipers are a "side mount" you can only use a bolt.

Ford recommends new bolts typically at a given location due to pre applied thread locker having been applied when new. Liability does come into play as well as durability. You can clean the threads at a given juncture (both external and internal), reapply the appropriate thread locker, and reuse. Bolts are designed to act like a spring when properly torqued, in essence, stretch and release upon removal. Over torque and the fastener may yield which encourages failure. Under torque and you may see fatigue at a joint/fastener. So always torque to spec and a quality, well designed fastener should live a long and healthy life throughout plenty of "field use" cycles.

Now if a fastener is a TTY (torque to yield) you should absolutely replace it each time you remove it or back off on the nut, post torque. In the case of the GT350, the fasteners at the front and rear calipers are not TTY.

 

[AdamIsAdam]

... In the case of the GT350, the fasteners at the front and rear calipers are not TTY.

Wait, so you're saying they're not TTY? Is this definitive? Others supposedly in the know, say it is TTY. How do we know definitively?

Personally, I think going with the studs is a good ideal just because I think over time, the mixed metals of the bolts and aluminum knuckle will fuse together, especially on low mileage cars that may not have those bolts replaced often. This happened to my 911 and I wound up needing an entire new hub assembly just to finish a brake job.

Unless someone knows of a down side to the studs, I think that's the way to go so they never need to be removed for the life of the car.

 

[Epiphany]

TTY fasteners use a specific torque procedure that differs from the "regular" method. Example, modular engine cylinder head bolts. Pay close attention to the factory service manuals and you'll have a clearer understanding of the type of fastener being used.

Studs are always the preferred method when their use is possible. The downside is that they are typically more expensive. A quality fastener, regardless of configuration, will utilize a rolled (versus cut) thread, proper heat treatment, and a protective coating or anti-corrosion inhibitor.

Studs are preferred in terms of how they work vs a bolt. A bolt creates a lot of friction when tightened as you are pulling the threads in and turning the fastener - hence why a large portion of a given bolt's torque figure is merely to overcome the friction during installation. A stud on the other hand is usually only in tension and stretches in a single plane. This allows a much easier life of a given stud-type fastener. In addition, it doesn't damage the female threaded portion of the joint during installation. High traffic joints made from soft material, are far more likely to be damaged from repeated bolt torque cycles such as the A356 aluminum front knuckles on a GT350 (the upcoming GT500 is likely to be the same). The factory bolt torque figure is a bit high but appropriate for an M14 x 2 bolt/thread in order to impart the proper amount of stretch, resulting in the clamping force that Ford engineers wanted. The problem is, the knuckle becomes the sacrificial lamb with use such as frequent pad changes.

On Edit...a TTY fastener will list an initial figure and then steps in terms of degrees as opposed to a simple torque figure like many are accustomed to when fastening something together with a bolt, etc.

 

[havasu486]

Wait, so you're saying they're not TTY? Is this definitive? Others supposedly in the know, say it is TTY. How do we know definitively?

Personally, I think going with the studs is a good ideal just because I think over time, the mixed metals of the bolts and aluminum knuckle will fuse together, especially on low mileage cars that may not have those bolts replaced often. This happened to my 911 and I wound up needing an entire new hub assembly just to finish a brake job.

Unless someone knows of a down side to the studs, I think that's the way to go so they never need to be removed for the life of the car.

I believe the big reason Caliperflexion has studs for the front is due to the fact that every time you need to replace brake pads the caliper bolt must be removed. If you track that can be very often. Caliperflexion makes a great product to elevate a known issue. However the rear the bolts do not have to be removed to replace brake pads. Therefore is there really an issue for them to address? You are correct about the mixed metals but is there a big enough demand for them to market replacement studs for the rear?

 

[Epiphany]

You can't use a stud on the rear calipers as they are a side mount and not a radial mount.

 

[Jupiter Sean]

Anyone have a # for the 2019 spoiler?

I can't stop drooling...

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