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Upgrading stock GT350 Stereo and more

Yetitime

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yes, cabin mic left alone, all works fine, hand free, talking to sync, etc. the put in the LC6I, JL Audio HD 900/5 amp, JL Audio C3-650 speakers in rear, JL Audio C5-650 in front-even put the tweeter in factory location in pillar. Ordered JL Audio stealthbox sub fit for the car. Only other thing i saw they use was just some standard wiring kit and hooked some power directly on the battery. They ran new wires from amp to speakers, mounted amp and LC6I in the spare tire well at my request. I have sync 3 in my 2016, everything works, phone, voice commands, etc. Name of the place was Motor Trendz in Peoria, AZ, 623-249-6819, Javier was main person if you want to call, tell them Art said to call and was the first GT350 they did.
I followed this and did almost the same. Used the LC6I, JL Audio stealthbox sub, the 5-channel JL amp. I went with the C2 coax instead of components (front and rear), left the factory tweeters in. No engine whine or noise. I did have to have them sit in the car with me and tune it to my style of music.

It took them almost two full days to complete the install, they took their time and did a great job. The factory head unit Sync 3 everything works as it did before the install. I did pay a good amount for it ~$3200 all said and done.
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Limey

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Problem seems intermittent - some 350's have the issue and some don't.
Just curious what is the Chassis number on your 350? Mine is 4592 so a later production car built in April 16. Maybe I'll try the C2 coax and the JL amp instead of Alpine to see if that makes a difference. I have the same year and tech package so definitely stumped here.
 

disneyfun1

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I followed this and did almost the same. Used the LC6I, JL Audio stealthbox sub, the 5-channel JL amp. I went with the C2 coax instead of components (front and rear), left the factory tweeters in. No engine whine or noise. I did have to have them sit in the car with me and tune it to my style of music.

It took them almost two full days to complete the install, they took their time and did a great job. The factory head unit Sync 3 everything works as it did before the install. I did pay a good amount for it ~$3200 all said and done.

price is about what i paid, mine was closer to $3500, probably because i went C3 and C5, they did replace the tweeters and left the stock grills for them so you cant tell. all mine works as normal with sync. The other day after having it done for months now, i guess i picked the wrong music and it cut out the front speakers when loud, so i just went to amp and barely turned it down and all seems fine now. My chassis number is G0431.
 

Yetitime

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My Chassis number is G3209.
 

Limey

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Thanks.. pretty close to my chassis number and I doubt Ford made any software changes between 3209 and 4592.
 

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disneyfun1

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i just posted i have a JL Audio HD 900/5 amp and JL Audio Stealthbox i removed from my shelby before i traded it in if anyone is interested and wants to make an offer. Makes a big difference in sound. let me know. thank you
 

wildcatgoal

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You have the stealthbox for the s550? How much to 30313?! I can't PM on my phone. Never works. Don't need the amp. You can sell that on diymobileaudio.com in like 10 minutes easy.
 

Intheflesh

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Hi there. Trying to get some information for my planned build.

I have a '16 tech pack. From what I read in this thread: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25501 I hbasically have the same setup that would have come in the Premium GT, but we do not have the 3-1/2 mids in the doors.

I am planning on taking the stock amp out completely and running through a DSP

I was wondering if anyone makes a harness adapters for the plugs that go in and out of the amp? That would help tremendously with getting my signal back to the processor and amp, and then use the factory wiring to go to the speakers.

I have a 5 channel amp that does 160x2, 70x2 @ 4 ohms and ~1000 @ 2 ohm.

My plan is send the 160 watts to the 6.5" door speakers, and then use the 70 watts to drive a 3" and tweet (passively crossed).

Unsure of the speakers/sub yet. I have the amp and processor already from a previous build.

I know a lot of people here say "That's just extra weight" or "the exhaust is your music"... but I love driving this car, and it has become my daily driver. (Also have a WRX for winter). I never do track events. Sometimes when I drive, I want to the exhaust make vroom vroom noise. Sometimes I want to listen to music. LOUD. depends on the mood.
 

JT1652

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I'm planning the installation on my 2016 Tech pack GT350. Could anyone tell me where they ran the amplifier power cable thru the firewall?
 

Cpove

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Before I break any of the bits in my car....Anyone have any tips when removing the interior panels to access the center speaker for changing? Any parts or clips I should try to pick up from Ford that i may need before i start? TIA
 

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datadatum

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Just be super careful with re-installation. I broke one door clip (JB Welded back on, stronger than ever) and one center panel clip (not reattached, no adverse affect noticed). I did double check, but I can only surmise I did something wrong. My first american car - I've really never experienced such cheap-ass clips.
 

Kado

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Before I break any of the bits in my car....Anyone have any tips when removing the interior panels to access the center speaker for changing? Any parts or clips I should try to pick up from Ford that i may need before i start? TIA
Center speaker is pretty simple. Get yourself a plastic trim tool. You need to pull the passenger piece next to the glove box first. For some reason, this one is in very firmly. Just get the trim tool in and use even pressure. Then pull the dash piece starting at the passenger side door. That will pull the whole center piece including the gauges off. Lastly is the top cover. All even pressure and just check for clips that pop off as you do it. They just slide back on when you're ready for reinstall.
 

GTthree50

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I followed this and did almost the same. Used the LC6I, JL Audio stealthbox sub, the 5-channel JL amp. I went with the C2 coax instead of components (front and rear), left the factory tweeters in. No engine whine or noise. I did have to have them sit in the car with me and tune it to my style of music.

It took them almost two full days to complete the install, they took their time and did a great job. The factory head unit Sync 3 everything works as it did before the install. I did pay a good amount for it ~$3200 all said and done.
What stereo shop did you use?
 

datadatum

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Ok Gents, I am moving forward with the subwoofer installation!

If you recall, I previously installed Focal ISS 165 6-1/2" in the doors and rear deck (using the included tweeters for the A-pillars), and Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX 3-1/2" in the upper door and center channel locations.

I had already disabled Exhaust Sound Enhancement via FORScan, and the resulting sound is super crisp. While the balance of the sound is mildly lacking bass with the windows up, once I rolled them down the bass seems to go away. After reading the recommendations from other members here (especially this thread), as well as speaking to a Crutchfield specialist, I ordered the following (plus some wiring):

1. JL Audio Stealthbox Single 12" - unless you want to build your own box, this is the one.

g13694617-F.jpg


2. AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control - needed to ensure balanced sound across the volume range.
81pEJYqrLPL._SL1500_.jpg


3. Alpine MRV-M500 mono subwoofer amplifier - slightly overpowered for the sub, as recommended by Crutchfield.
g500MRVM500-L.jpg


I should receive all the parts in the next week, and will install later this month (June 2019). I'm still reading up on installation - so if anyone has good links or advice - please reply!
 

Ninjak

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Ok Gents, I am moving forward with the subwoofer installation!

If you recall, I previously installed Focal ISS 165 6-1/2" in the doors and rear deck (using the included tweeters for the A-pillars), and Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX 3-1/2" in the upper door and center channel locations.

I had already disabled Exhaust Sound Enhancement via FORScan, and the resulting sound is super crisp. While the balance of the sound is mildly lacking bass with the windows up, once I rolled them down the bass seems to go away. After reading the recommendations from other members here (especially this thread), as well as speaking to a Crutchfield specialist, I ordered the following (plus some wiring):

1. JL Audio Stealthbox Single 12" - unless you want to build your own box, this is the one.

g13694617-F.jpg


2. AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control - needed to ensure balanced sound across the volume range.
81pEJYqrLPL._SL1500_.jpg


3. Alpine MRV-M500 mono subwoofer amplifier - slightly overpowered for the sub, as recommended by Crutchfield.
g500MRVM500-L.jpg


I should receive all the parts in the next week, and will install later this month (June 2019). I'm still reading up on installation - so if anyone has good links or advice - please reply!
I am running this setup in my car, sans the JL sub box. I had a box built and I used a 10 kicker pro comp I had laying around in it. Worked out well. I also upgraded all of my speakers to Infinity's sans the center. Sounds good.

Djec4VdlTYaqFl2bQPjVBx6pq4bw9hZqOJ2ZjqzLPY5yPkcbaAw8j3h7pCSMxBWhzh9-65K_9ntBOvSWs=w1598-h1198-no.jpg


-4yacghAdOL1VFaVA8RDGJB64jVwPqfe0Wdj5EtTtCXTd6aH1exAg_aizWZwXcPyw4b3OlFJoLyVwda1M=w1598-h1198-no.jpg
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