Seriously, How many tick/rattle engines in the last 2 months?

[Condor1970]

Following this up, dropped the car off yesterday to let them check out my various noises. Got a text from the service manager that said, "Bad news, replaced the driveshaft and still making noise. Good news, getting you a new transmission." So now a new long block a few months ago followed by a new tranny. So I got that going for me, which is nice.

Service Manager: Good news, we've ordered all new parts on the OEM parts list associated with part number #2019MSTGT-BLK-PP2. This should repair the affected issue. It includes all parts along with tires and headliner. We should have the car assembled in a couple weeks.

.... 2 weeks later....

Service Manager: Good news, your car is ready. It still has a strange tick and rattle, but it's all fixed.

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[bootlegger]

The PCM connector is C175E.

Did anyone try disconnecting the IMRC yet and seeing if it corrected the rattle?

 

[Condor1970]

Did anyone try disconnecting the IMRC yet and seeing if it corrected the rattle?

I asked a guy on YouTube who did a lockout video, and he said it didn't get rid of the rattle.

I'm starting to think it's more of a DI pump issue, since it's a mechanically lobe driven pump at 2,000psi. There must be a spot where it starts to get noisy when the injectors are starting to kick in around 1,800rpm, then goes away when the DI system is fully activated over 2,500rpm.

In fact, I think the rattle we are hearing in the 5.0L is similar to the rattling you also hear from a noisy Ecoboost high pressure GDI pump. Once the DI system is fully engaged at high rpm, that noise smooths out somewhat, and is also drowned out by the engine noise combined.

 

[Sig556]

Following this up, dropped the car off yesterday to let them check out my various noises. Got a text from the service manager that said, "Bad news, replaced the driveshaft and still making noise. Good news, getting you a new transmission." So now a new long block a few months ago followed by a new tranny. So I got that going for me, which is nice.

Sounds to me the dealer is just throwing parts at the problem.

 

[brucelinc]

In fact, I think the rattle we are hearing in the 5.0L is similar to the rattling you also hear from a noisy Ecoboost high pressure GDI pump. Once the DI system is fully engaged at high rpm, that noise smooths out somewhat, and is also drowned out by the engine noise combined.

I think you might be correct. I had a Lincoln MKS with the ecoboost 3.5. It definitely had a strange rattle at a specific RPM that was easily traceable to the HPFP using a stethoscope. My Mustang doesn't have it, though. In fact, the engine is quite a bit quieter than the first gen 3.5 ecoboost. I can't explain why some 5.0s are noisier than others but some of the videos I hear remind me of my 3.5 eco.

 

[steveo1960]

If you study up on motor oil, you'll find that new oil typically strips off the built-up layer of anti-wear additives (friction reducers) from the previous run of motor oil. So in other words, new oil can increase the friction level of moving parts. From all that I've read and researched, the typewriter tick seems to be directly related to the friction level between moving parts. That's why an anti-friction additive like Ceratec almost instantly makes the typewriter tick go away.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3254390/1

Right. But what confuses me is between manufacturing, transporting and then sitting on the lot between test drives by prospective buyers, the oil obviously drains back to the pan leaving whatever is left coating the parts. So why is a first oil change any different than the above scenario? You drain the oil and pour in new oil. The parts are still coated with the previous oil just like as if the car is sitting around. Assuming of course the factory fill is standard spec oil and there is no special additive from the factory.

 

[GT Pony]

Right. But what confuses me is between manufacturing, transporting and then sitting on the lot between test drives by prospective buyers, the oil obviously drains back to the pan leaving whatever is left coating the parts. So why is a first oil change any different than the above scenario? You drain the oil and pour in new oil. The parts are still coated with the previous oil just like as if the car is sitting around. Assuming of course the factory fill is standard spec oil and there is no special additive from the factory.

It's not about a layer of oil left on parts after the engine is shutdown. It's about the anti-friction/anti-wear layer in motor oil that builds up on the engine parts over time that could get stripped off the parts when new oil comes into contact with parts. Who knows about the factory oil fill, not sure if anyone has done an oil analysis on fresh factory oil, but is just seems strange that many don't have the typewriter tick right from the factory (I think I've read a few cars did though) and the ticking appears much later or right after the first oil change. Why did Ford discontinue selling XL-17 when it fixed the ticking? Now added to factory oil fills ... who knows?

 

[Jetnoise]

I asked a guy on YouTube who did a lockout video, and he said it didn't get rid of the rattle.

I'm starting to think it's more of a DI pump issue, since it's a mechanically lobe driven pump at 2,000psi. There must be a spot where it starts to get noisy when the injectors are starting to kick in around 1,800rpm, then goes away when the DI system is fully activated over 2,500rpm.

In fact, I think the rattle we are hearing in the 5.0L is similar to the rattling you also hear from a noisy Ecoboost high pressure GDI pump. Once the DI system is fully engaged at high rpm, that noise smooths out somewhat, and is also drowned out by the engine noise combined.

From my experience the rattle is intermittent. Some times I never hear it
Anything on YouTube is just that....on YouTube. I'd like to hear more confirmation. My rattle sounds nothing like that EB vido

What would cause DI pump sound to be audible sometimes ...sometimes not all.

 

[Condor1970]

What would cause DI pump sound to be audible sometimes ...sometimes not all.

Changes in DI operation, fuel pressure, and the amount of flow can cause all kinds of different sounds in a pump. Especially a pump that is mechanically driven and operating at very high pressures like this. You can hear the obvious high pitched clicking sound, but there is an under-tonal drone that sounds exactly like the 2k rattle. At least compared to my car it sounds virtually identical.

 

[GT Pony]

What would cause DI pump sound to be audible sometimes ...sometimes not all.

To expand ... or never heard on some 2018+ Mustangs?

 

[Condor1970]

To expand ... or never heard on some 2018+ Mustangs?

What's funny, is sometimes the 2k rattle I have is almost non-existent, and other times much more noticeable. I have no idea why it would be like that. If it was piston slap, you'd hear it all the time, no ifs, ands, or buts.

 

[Jetnoise]

What's funny, is sometimes the 2k rattle I have is almost non-existent, and other times much more noticeable. I have no idea why it would be like that. If it was piston slap, you'd hear it all the time, no ifs, ands, or buts.

I think temp plays a role

 

[Jetnoise]

To expand ... or never heard on some 2018+ Mustangs?

It's not just an 18 thing. I believe some people have it but don't know it or think it's the dash rattling....or trans block plate...or the shifter. Or pass it off as something else

 

[GT Pony]

I think temp plays a role

Yep, some guys reported that if they really drove the car very hard their 2K rattle would subside noticeably or go away all together for a while. Harder driving would theoretically get the pistons hotter. the cylinder liners will stay about the same temperature because they are liquid cooled.

 

[Jetnoise]

Yep, some guys reported that if they really drove the car very hard their 2K rattle would subside noticeably or go away all together for a while. Harder driving would theoretically get the pistons hotter. the cylinder liners will stay about the same temperature because they are liquid cooled.

Mine isn't as repeatable as that. Makes no sense.
The worst it has sounded, and there are verying levels of severity, is when it's been running and the cooling system is being well utilized.
It rattled driving and sitting still in the 1700-27ish range and goes away. It's interesting cuz the rattle is usually most prominent in 1-3 gears. Happened only 1x. Summer may bring it out more.
Can hear it sometimes but usually not when pulling out of the drive in the am after the temp needle has moved.

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