Seriously, How many tick/rattle engines in the last 2 months?

[NIXPP2]

I'm on my second engine, had a long block replacement due to piston slap, scoring in the cylinders. It had the tick, it was cured (at least the sound) by ceratec. It also had the rattle, the slap started loud at 2k to 3k. Was the rattle part of the piston issue? I really don't think so, they just happened to occupy the same rpm range. Now the new engine has no tick, but it rattles worse than I ever noticed with the previous engine. It starts at 2k, which seems to be the norm, but carries all the way up into 4k range sometimes. I really think it's something with the manifold runner or cam phasers. Either way, those of you that are of the opinion that people are overreacting or that it's acceptable for a new car to sound like it's knocking and chattering are crazy. Seriously. It's not acceptable,I don't give a shit if it's damaging or not, it's embarrassing and Ford should be embarrassed. Mines going back in Tuesday so that I can have my current sounds documented, and also to have the flywheel/throw out bearing and driveshaft inspected because of all the low speed noise and popping at idle that goes away when I load the drivetrain by slightly releasing the clutch while stopped.

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[Condor1970]

I'm on my second engine, had a long block replacement due to piston slap, scoring in the cylinders. It had the tick, it was cured (at least the sound) by ceratec. It also had the rattle, the slap started loud at 2k to 3k. Was the rattle part of the piston issue? I really don't think so, they just happened to occupy the same rpm range. Now the new engine has no tick, but it rattles worse than I ever noticed with the previous engine. It starts at 2k, which seems to be the norm, but carries all the way up into 4k range sometimes. I really think it's something with the manifold runner or cam phasers. Either way, those of you that are of the opinion that people are overreacting or that it's acceptable for a new car to sound like it's knocking and chattering are crazy. Seriously. It's not acceptable,I don't give a shit if it's damaging or not, it's embarrassing and Ford should be embarrassed. Mines going back in Tuesday so that I can have my current sounds documented, and also to have the flywheel/throw out bearing and driveshaft inspected because of all the low speed noise and popping at idle that goes away when I load the drivetrain by slightly releasing the clutch while stopped.

I really don't think the 2k rattle is piston slap. Real piston slap sounds much different. It's very distinct. If it was piston slap, it would be constant. It wouldn't just occur at 2,000-3,000 rpm. You'd hear it at idle more than at 2,000rpm. all the time. The 2k rattle is most likely due to something in the DI system, like the HP pump making noise at a certain RPM and discharge pressure due to it being a mechanically driven pump. It coul dalso be something to do with the IMRC, but I'm not certain of that.

 

[jake_zx2]

Either way, those of you that are of the opinion that people are overreacting or that it's acceptable for a new car to sound like it's knocking and chattering are crazy. Seriously. It's not acceptable,I don't give a shit if it's damaging or not, it's embarrassing and Ford should be embarrassed.

Then go buy a car with the same performance and better quality... Oh, and pay $90k while you're at it

Personally, I don't give a shit if it makes a tiny bit of noise. It's not embarrassing, and it's not damaging anything. As long as it still goes like hell, it'll keep a smile on my face

 

[NIXPP2]

I really don't think the 2k rattle is piston slap. Real piston slap sounds much different. It's very distinct. If it was piston slap, it would be constant. It wouldn't just occur at 2,000-3,000 rpm. You'd hear it at idle more than at 2,000rpm. all the time. The 2k rattle is most likely due to something in the DI system, like the HP pump making noise at a certain RPM and discharge pressure due to it being a mechanically driven pump. It coul dalso be something to do with the IMRC, but I'm not certain of that.

Very well could be the IMRC, like it's half between open and closed and has play in it. Sure would love to see someone figure it out.

 

[Condor1970]

Very well could be the IMRC, like it's half between open and closed and has play in it. Sure would love to see someone figure it out.

Yes, the idea of having a runner that flutters badly at a certain position and air flow would also make sense. I'm not sure it would be that loud though. But hey, stranger things have happened. Especially when things happen inside the intake. It's like a megaphone of noise in there.

I wonder, has anyone noticed a difference after installing an IMRC delete kit?

 

[jake_zx2]

Very well could be the IMRC, like it's half between open and closed and has play in it. Sure would love to see someone figure it out.

I did see someone who had their intake on their 2018 replaced because it was diagnosed as the IMRC making the rattling... they said afterward it was quiet for about 500 miles then started chattering again. Maybe it's just a faulty piece of the IMRC that causes the shaft that the blockoff plates ride on to vibrate in the housing at a certain percentage open? It would explain why the long block replacements seem to always end up rattling worse after being done... maybe removing and reinstalling the intake shifts them around and makes them even worse? just a theory

 

[NIXPP2]

I did see someone who had their intake on their 2018 replaced because it was diagnosed as the IMRC making the rattling... they said afterward it was quiet for about 500 miles then started chattering again. Maybe it's just a faulty piece of the IMRC that causes the shaft that the blockoff plates ride on to vibrate in the housing at a certain percentage open? It would explain why the long block replacements seem to always end up rattling worse after being done... maybe removing and reinstalling the intake shifts them around and makes them even worse? just a theory

Well, mine is worse after the replacement. I wonder if someone that has it off could check it for play or energize it and see if it's easily flapped back and forth. I think that's one of the most frustrating things, I feel like it has to be something simple and fixable. I'd do it myself to be rid of the noise, I wouldn't even hassle Ford with it. If they identified the cause publicly and still said it wasn't detrimental to performance/longevity then fine, but they have to know exactly what it is.

 

[jake_zx2]

Have a look in the main section. There is a thread running where Blue Horse predicted there would be no more V8s by 2018.
Blue Horse was the OP!

Blue horse also said that the GT500 was confirmed to cost $120k+. I have no idea where the hell he got that number from, but it seems he's used to pulling things out of his ass.

Well, mine is worse after the replacement. I wonder if someone that has it off could check it for play or energize it and see if it's easily flapped back and forth. I think that's one of the most frustrating things, I feel like it has to be something simple and fixable. I'd do it myself to be rid of the noise, I wouldn't even hassle Ford with it. If they identified the cause publicly and still said it wasn't detrimental to performance/longevity then fine, but they have to know exactly what it is.

I mean, if you're the modding type, you could always install IMRC deletes and see if that changes anything.

I also seem to recall people mentioning that their 15-17 cars with an 18 manifold swap also had a rattle, but I could be mistaken on that

 

[steveo1960]

My biggest problem with all of this ticking is why does it seem to appear for many after the first oil change? This makes no sense to me. Cars are filled with factory fluids, get transported to dealers and often sit on the lots for weeks if not months before being test driven. So basically the factory oil is probably mostly in the pan at this point. So why is this different than an oil change? Seems odd to me.

 

[GT Pony]

My biggest problem with all of this ticking is why does it seem to appear for many after the first oil change? This makes no sense to me. Cars are filled with factory fluids, get transported to dealers and often sit on the lots for weeks if not months before being test driven. So basically the factory oil is probably mostly in the pan at this point. So why is this different than an oil change? Seems odd to me.

If you study up on motor oil, you'll find that new oil typically strips off the built-up layer of anti-wear additives (friction reducers) from the previous run of motor oil. So in other words, new oil can increase the friction level of moving parts. From all that I've read and researched, the typewriter tick seems to be directly related to the friction level between moving parts. That's why an anti-friction additive like Ceratec almost instantly makes the typewriter tick go away.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3254390/1

 

[boB]

Well, mine is worse after the replacement. I wonder if someone that has it off could check it for play or energize it and see if it's easily flapped back and forth. I think that's one of the most frustrating things, I feel like it has to be something simple and fixable. I'd do it myself to be rid of the noise, I wouldn't even hassle Ford with it. If they identified the cause publicly and still said it wasn't detrimental to performance/longevity then fine, but they have to know exactly what it is.

The IMRC actuators are controlled by the vacuum solenoid. Disconnecting (or constantly powering, not sure which holds the valves open) the solenoid should provide permanent actuation for a quick check if that causes noises.

 

[NIXPP2]

The IMRC actuators are controlled by the vacuum solenoid. Disconnecting (or constantly powering, not sure which holds the valves open) the solenoid should provide permanent actuation for a quick check if that causes noises.

Any chance you know what line it is? I believe I've read that they default to open.

 

[boB]

Any chance you know what line it is? I believe I've read that they default to open.

The PCM connector is C175E.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

I always used Mobil 1 5W20. Believe it or not Super Tech Full Synthetic SAE 5W30 purchased at Walmart. Read both containers of what was listed in the contents and yes they are the same except for the name. But wait there's more the Walmart Brand is exactly half the price of Mobil 1 and it was not on sale.

As a side note I took a cruise to North Myrtle Beach for some shopping 53 miles one way from my home in Ocean Isle Beach. A total of 106 miles most at 70 miles an hour the engine is still pretty quiet. Go Figure!

Hey - I’m from Myrtle! Home of Mustang Week!!

 

[NIXPP2]

The PCM connector is C175E.

I'll check it out this weekend, thanks!

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