BMR BK-051 REVIEW

[Pauliejr]

Yesterday afternoon I finished the install of the differential lockout out kit.

I would like to share some info as well as questions.

#1 I have to say, even with mechanical background, the instructions provided to me were very broad and incorrect.
There are a few mistakes in the instructions that maybe BMR can chime in on. The image diagrams are numbered and there is some confusion in referencing these pictures. Also the bolt size description in a few places was incorrect, causing me to search for a 21mm bolt which is not a 21mm and took me some time to realize I had located the correct bolt, however the sizing was referenced wrong.

#2 This kit was purchased through American muscle. I have noticed this kit is different than that another kit I have seen that has the relief notches in the bushing but same model. My instructions seem to pair up with that kid. Is there a difference between these 2?

#3 the front bushing install is very very tricky if you are doing a diy install. The video on;one don’t mention they have the exhaust dropped. It takes some time but if you move the cradle and rear bumpkin around you can squeeze the front in place.

I would say going back to do this install a second time I could probably cut my install time in half, however I just wanted to put the info out there that there are a few mistakes, and broad instructions that probably would save people a bunch of headaches ahead of time if they were corrected.



I installed this kit along with Steeda rear shock mounts and the car is much much better.

I do have Koni adjustable all around as well as springs.


I have a PP and YES the rear end does make noise/slight wine with this kit, however it is tolerable and I assume not harmful. I may swap to a different fluid.

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[EcoBOSS]

Ditto...
No parts inventory.
Directions are incomplete at best.
My bushings did not have ANY notches and would not "align" at all.
The front ones were so bad they would not align and the bolt could even be started.
I wasn't willing to modify brand new parts, so they all went back in the box.

 

[Pauliejr]

I believe this new design has “no reliefs” which is why there are no notches.

I had the same issue with the front bolt no brill long enough. I found that if you just install the large washer they will fit. The gold seems short because the bushing is not yet compressed into the socket of your able to compress it with a longer volt you can then remove and reinstall correct bolt.

I agree there is a lot of missing information, mistakes.

Ditto...
No parts inventory.
Directions are incomplete at best.
My bushings did not have ANY notches and would not "align" at all.
The front ones were so bad they would not align and the bolt could even be started.
I wasn't willing to modify brand new parts, so they all went back in the box.

 

[BMR Tech]

Ditto...
No parts inventory.
Directions are incomplete at best.
My bushings did not have ANY notches and would not "align" at all.
The front ones were so bad they would not align and the bolt could even be started.
I wasn't willing to modify brand new parts, so they all went back in the box.

I believe this new design has “no reliefs” which is why there are no notches.

I had the same issue with the front bolt no brill long enough. I found that if you just install the large washer they will fit. The gold seems short because the bushing is not yet compressed into the socket of your able to compress it with a longer volt you can then remove and reinstall correct bolt.

I agree there is a lot of missing information, mistakes.

I am not really sure what you two are referring to. Can you explain further?

Here are the instructions:

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/BK051.pdf

I have followed those above to the T about 20 times with zero issues?

I do not see any discrepancies. Please advise.

 

[EcoBOSS]

The link provided (but not printed and boxed with my parts) is different from the kit provided - far better.
Apparently, I got a "transition kit" with the old directions and new "un-indexed" parts.

Other than the un-notched Poly bushings, or the recommendation for using Loctite (another change - but I always do), step 8. is also rewritten to eliminate the lock washers.
If you read the older instructions they specify using 6 lock washers in the 3 steps and only 4 are provided. - Hence my railing about no parts list.
By that point I was done, back in the box.
Even WITH these directions, the lack of notches on the parts I was not able to get my ham fists between the cradle and the body/tank to get the front parts in.
They would not sit flat, and the threads would not start.
Even if I removed the split locking washer on the front (as per the new instructions) I would have had to battle the rubber "nubs' (2 high and 2 medium) on the factory bushing.
I'm not cutting the "nubs" or notching the bushings, so I'll pass.
I'm perfectly happy with the Cradle Lockout Lvl2 kit.

Some change recommendations? The bolts for the cradle are modified to cut - Getting them in straight and centered is crucial.
If they don't thread in by hand, they are cutting new threads.
Thx

 

[BMR Tech]

Yes, there were likely some transitional errors.

As for the notches, they work just fine without the reliefs in the bushings. I have never had an issue personally, and have installed a bunch.

It is very rare that anyone ever has an issue with the current design. We ship an astronomical amount of them out, too, since dropping the price to $29.95.

 

[BMR Tech]

And yes, the L2 Lockout is amazing. I use it on my cars and could not be happier!

 

[Pauliejr]

And yes, the L2 Lockout is amazing. I use it on my cars and could not be happier!

Any suggestion for the rear dif noise is 3.73 gears on a pp car. It’s not too terrible but as a certain coasting spread when letting off the throttle it’s pretty loud.

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