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Drag Radials with MT-82

stang17

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I know bias plys are preferred for manual cars, but I wanted to get a feel for those running drag radials on stick shift cars.

I currently run a big and skinny race star setup with 28x17x10 Hoosiers. Even with 19psi, I don't care for the sway that inherently comes with bias ply. Additionally, its a PITA to swap wheels and tires at the track and hauling the extra tires with my jack between the backseat and trunk.

I was interested in going with a 17 inch MT ET Street R radial so that I can drive the 50-100 miles to the track, air down, run, air up, and head back home. I also didn't take into consideration when I purchased the Hoosiers that they disqualify me from running in the street legal drags on Friday nights.

So....who out there with manual transmissions have been launching at the strip with radials and have not broken anything yet?
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Braski

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I know bias plys are preferred for manual cars, but I wanted to get a feel for those running drag radials on stick shift cars.

I currently run a big and skinny race star setup with 28x17x10 Hoosiers. Even with 19psi, I don't care for the sway that inherently comes with bias ply. Additionally, its a PITA to swap wheels and tires at the track and hauling the extra tires with my jack between the backseat and trunk.

I was interested in going with a 17 inch MT ET Street R radial so that I can drive the 50-100 miles to the track, air down, run, air up, and head back home. I also didn't take into consideration when I purchased the Hoosiers that they disqualify me from running in the street legal drags on Friday nights.

So....who out there with manual transmissions have been launching at the strip with radials and have not broken anything yet?
I also have Hoosiers now but I'm planning on getting a set ET Streets R Bias ply. No sway, street legal, stick like glue and still a bias ply!
 

F1scamp

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I run drag radials daily, and bias at the track. I have broke the rear end and all its attaching bolts ( yes, even through bolted with grade 12 hardware) probably 4 times with the drag radials not even doing anything crazy on the street. Never broke anything at the track with the bias. They are brutal.
 
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stang17

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I run drag radials daily, and bias at the track. I have broke the rear end and all its attaching bolts ( yes, even through bolted with grade 12 hardware) probably 4 times with the drag radials not even doing anything crazy on the street. Never broke anything at the track with the bias. They are brutal.
By chance, did you break using ET Street Rs?
 

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Vegas5OH

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Im have 305/45/17 et street SS im about to put on my mt82 car. im making 800 wheel.
 

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Honestly, I wouldn’t do it.
The video below is a recent pass, 10psi in the MT ET bias plies. Still getting some wheelhop for a 1.6 60’
I think you’d be pretty lucky to not break stuff with a radial under those conditions.
On the same weekend a friend of mine broke the (already upgraded) input shaft on his ZF auto when the car started hopping on the 1-2 shift.
 
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olaosunt

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I also have Hoosiers now but I'm planning on getting a set ET Streets R Bias ply. No sway, street legal, stick like glue and still a bias ply!
I think even ET R bias ply will sway some .

When I ran them(26 inch tall tire ) on a 15x 8 wheel I had quite a bit of sway but it could have been due to the bulge on the narrow rim or the short tire .

I also ran the same tire on a 15x9.3wheel and it was bit better .I also have them in a 28 inch tall tire on 15x 9.3 Wheels but not tried them out yet .

I am going to try 17 wheels first this year so have them on some cheap 17x9 wheels (28 inch tall ) .

As back up have some 28 inch Hoosiers on 17x9.5 wheels but they may be worn . My “in case of emergency break glass tires “ are 28 inch M&H mounted on 17x 10.5 wheel (also plan on replacing the 26 inch tall tire with stiff wall ET drag if all else fails )

And yes , I have a tire fetish . Lol
 

Carnage

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Honestly, I wouldn’t do it.
The video below is a recent pass, 10psi in the MT ET bias plies. Still getting some wheelhop for a 1.6 60’
I think you’d be pretty lucky to not break stuff with a radial under those conditions.
On the same weekend a friend of mine broke the (already upgraded) input shaft on his ZF auto when the car started hopping on the 1-2 shift.
10psi is to low of air psi. MT ET is not meant to wrinkle like a slick.
 

Burkey

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10psi is to low of air psi. MT ET is not meant to wrinkle like a slick.
I won’t disagree with you there but you have to do what works on the day.
Below is a 15psi launch (and one of the best ones at that pressure I might add).
Vikings are on the way. Gotta get better control of the squat and release.
 

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Carnage

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I won’t disagree with you there but you have to do what works on the day.
Below is a 15psi launch (and one of the best ones at that pressure I might add).
Vikings are on the way. Gotta get better control of the squat and release.
Is this a stick car?
 

Burkey

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Burkey

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have you tried using a two step?
Not yet.
Maybe in the future.
My understanding of the MSD setup is that the rpm need to drop by 1/3 on launch for it to function correctly.
Given that I’m just blowing the tyres off (atm), I don’t think it’ll work.
Not sure how it all works if you build the two step into the tune
 

F1scamp

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To update this thread, I bought M&H 275/45r18 drag radials to put on the factory rim for dd'ing. I liked them so much I figured I would try them at the track. They work better than any other drag radial I have tried, they have a nice sidewall that seems to be playing nice with the stick. Without leaning on it managed a 1.64 60', I think 1.5's are possible with another shock adjustment and tire pressure change. Still have yet to try the bias r's, but my best 60' with the hoosier slicks is 1.51
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