Just ordered Antigravity Lithium Battery

[Demonic]

Not trying to be a downer but - Just ask BBI in California about their experience with Lithium Batteries. I am never buying one after all the horror stories on burning.

We are early adopters for sure, and with any new technology there will be issues. If new technology worries you then of course it’s not for you and I don’t fault you for not jumping on it. I’m too young to remember the rise of fuel injection technology, but I’m sure there were tons of guys who would say “my friend Bob had awful issues with that system - I’ll stick with my carburetors”.

One of the benefits of a forum and community is having a means for those of us trying new things to share our experiences. I do feel that lithium batteries are a more advanced and elegant technology compared to having a heavy box of sulfuric acid sloshing around, and am willing to do some work to see a solution.

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[Zitrosounds]

We are early adopters for sure, and with any new technology there will be issues. If new technology worries you then of course it’s not for you and I don’t fault you for not jumping on it. I’m too young to remember the rise of fuel injection technology, but I’m sure there were tons of guys who would say “my friend Bob had awful issues with that system - I’ll stick with my carburetors”.

One of the benefits of a forum and community is having a means for those of us trying new things to share our experiences. I do feel that lithium batteries are a more advanced and elegant technology compared to having a heavy box of sulfuric acid sloshing around, and am willing to do some work to see a solution.

I have tracked with the lithium battery, spent a winter with the battery and very happy with the performance of the battery. My anti gravity battery weighs less than 5lbs and negated relocating the battery.

Very happy with the ytx-20??? cant remember model LOL

 

[Stuntman]

I know what the purpose is. I’m asking why he didn’t just keep the lead acid battery.

Another thing is,
The oem battery is right side mounted.
The engine is offset to the right.
The driver is sitting on the left.

For it to be lighter than a lead acid battery? I agree the weight distribution would be better with a lead acid battery.

It would be better mounted on the right in the trunk but that's not easily possible if you want all of your trunk room and are trying to mount the battery in the spare tire well.

I am more concerned with weight bias making the car neutral rather than utter reduction of weight. I’m not building a track car but I have my fun 5-7 times a year on local road courses. With 900hp and 700tq (less on track since not running E85) weight is not an issue (of course it’s a factor all things considered); stopping it may but that’s been compensated as well. I have a Whipple and all its accompanying components up front so I wanted the weight relocated and was running the stock battery in the trunk. My original oem battery was beginning to show signs of weakening so I had the opportunity to lighten up a bit. If I was going for total weight reduction I would have run the 24ah version. Driver on the left and battery on the right isn’t of concern as much as an oem battery up high and concentrated over one wheel is. What you are after and I are after are probably much different things. I’m adding a JL Stealthbox subwoofer and amp to the back so there goes what I saved......yeah I don’t care.

Everything else the antigravity battery offers are leaps ahead of lead acid batteries.

As Dominator said, the heavier lead acid battery would give you better weight distribution to help offset your supercharger. The lighter battery in the trunk hurts your distribution. Moving the battery higher up on the right rear frame rail would likely give you better cross weights and R-L weight distribution than mounting it in the center of the trunk. Mount your subwoofer in the right rear of the trunk.

 

[Antigravity Batteries]

I'll be headed down to Willow Springs Raceway in SoCal this weekend, which is about a 5 hour drive. I can report back on HUD voltage. Maybe Antigravity batteries could meet us there? Should be about 15-20 GT350's on track Monday, 4/15. @Antigravity Batteries testing/sales op!

I actually would have really liked to be there. If any suggestions like this please let me know by email in the future... [email protected]

I was in Mammoth all week and just got back, and my staff is at MotoGP this weekend in Austin TX.... so we were a bit booked out. And I also was supposed to be at IMSA in Long Beach this weekend.

But we are in CA so any event you guys do let us know, or if you need any info.

 

[Antigravity Batteries]

Added the Antigravity H5 40ah today. This is the heaviest and most powerful of the three (all same physical size) in that model range and you can see the weight below including the stock battery. My install is in the trunk also using the Watson Racing relocation kit albeit mine is in the spare well instead of upper left or rights side of the trunk.

I talked with Scott at @Antigravity Batteries plenty and he was confident that any of the three would work in my setup and ultimately it was my choice going with the 40ah because I wanted a set it and forget it operation NOT that any of the others wouldn't. My car gets driven as a daily for the most part with occasional road course use and is pretty heavily modified. We also talked about all the options that are capable using forscan and he said there is no reason to change. He did go on to say that if he were to choose one, it would be the lowest amp hour AGM battery (03 on the forscan list) just because it is the most relatable to lithium charging pattern and we did include the forscan lithium setting option as well. In the end he said just leave it as the stock system is and that's where I have it now granted this is day 1. First start up was without hesitation not that I expected anything less.

Good to hear you got it in.... let us know if any issues at all.

As DB252 noted I told him to just go with the basic AGM setting. The priority is just to makes sure the battery works fine as the standard replacement battery in any car. WE actaully don't want anybody having to mess around. IT should be a drop in and work type of thing.

I have a Porsche GT3RS , and it has the ability to change to the LITHIUM setting also. I have not done this, just because my intention was to know our Batteries work as a direct replacement for a typical AGM or FLA found in most modern performance Cars. The Lithium setting in a Porsche actually reduces the output of the Alternator to 13.8v max compared to 14.8 max which can in fact provide a benefit over the standard AGM or SLA setting because of a lower-voltage. BUT so you understand that benefit would really come into play at sustained high RPM usage such as racing where you're alway up in the RPM range for a long period of time on a track. The theory is that the faster the motor is spinning for the longer period of time there can be more drag created if the Alternator is trying to put out 14.8v all the time while spinning so fast. So they reduce the voltage for less demand on the alternator and to some degree also keeping the Lithium at a lower voltage during sustained high RPMs. So there is a logic to having a lowered voltage profile.... but I want to make clear that even 14.8 is not going to harm the lithium battery even during a exceptionally long sustain periods. It is completely within is voltage range as it is for Lead/Acid also. So if you can make a change to a Lithium setting, and "IF" the Mustang actually reduces its voltage and actually changes its charging curve then there might be a benefit for those who do, but I just don't want people thinking the stock setting is going to hurt a lithium battery.

Last keep in mind if you do use any of our products, or another brand. Make sure you are NOT making the changes to your charging system initially.... Just put the battery in as a direct swap and use it like that and gather any data relevant for a few weeks. THEN make a change. This way you have a baseline already of proper operation (or not). And you can track any issue your car might have. So start off with you car as it sits and as it runs well. Put the Lithium in see if there are any parasitic draws on the battery and how it is holding voltage in you car over the course of a few weeks, make sure you car is working as normal. THEN if you want do your changes and again track it. This just keeps you knowing what is going on and not guessing.

 

[Antigravity Batteries]

For it to be lighter than a lead acid battery? I agree the weight distribution would be better with a lead acid battery.

It would be better mounted on the right in the trunk but that's not easily possible if you want all of your trunk room and are trying to mount the battery in the spare tire well.

As Dominator said, the heavier lead acid battery would give you better weight distribution to help offset your supercharger. The lighter battery in the trunk hurts your distribution. Moving the battery higher up on the right rear frame rail would likely give you better cross weights and R-L weight distribution than mounting it in the center of the trunk. Mount your subwoofer in the right rear of the trunk.

Weight distribution is obviously extremely important in Cars for handling and more. But just want to clarify as DB252 was speaking if you not doing all track all the time you are splitting some differences for a Street and Track use car.

For example regardless of weight Distribution lower weight is lower weight and for braking and other issues it a significant issue. For example let take a 10 lbs weight in the shape of a brick. If you try to slow its force when going 10 MPH, for the sake of argument say it take 50 pounds of energy/force to stop it forward momentum (this is not accurate, it only for illustrative purposes, you need an engineer to figures this stuff out). But when you double the speed of that Brick to 20 MPH it will not take just double the force required to stop that Brick... its an exponential equation, so that 10lbs brick now requires about 150 lbs to stop it when it is traveling 20MPH. And if you take that 10lbs brick up to 60MPH not we are talking like 600 lbs of force to stop it. As I said my numbers aren't accurate, but as speed increases it not just a linear equation of what it take to slow that mass, but rather and exponential increase of force required to stop that mass. So if you are talking even a 15lbs weight reduction and on a track, going from 80MPH to 20 MPH or 150MPH down to 60MPH.... that 15 pound becomes incredibly important though you might not know or feel it. Its mass becomes quite important. In the end my point is weight is weight, and reducing it is a big improvement if you going fast, but if you do it in combination with distribution it's even more relevant.

 

[db252]

Weight distribution is obviously extremely important in Cars for handling and more. But just want to clarify as DB252 was speaking if you not doing all track all the time you are splitting some differences for a Street and Track use car.

For example regardless of weight Distribution lower weight is lower weight and for braking and other issues it a significant issue. For example let take a 10 lbs weight in the shape of a brick. If you try to slow its force when going 10 MPH, for the sake of argument say it take 50 pounds of energy/force to stop it forward momentum (this is not accurate, it only for illustrative purposes, you need an engineer to figures this stuff out). But when you double the speed of that Brick to 20 MPH it will not take just double the force required to stop that Brick... its an exponential equation, so that 10lbs brick now requires about 150 lbs to stop it when it is traveling 20MPH. And if you take that 10lbs brick up to 60MPH not we are talking like 600 lbs of force to stop it. As I said my numbers aren't accurate, but as speed increases it not just a linear equation of what it take to slow that mass, but rather and exponential increase of force required to stop that mass. So if you are talking even a 15lbs weight reduction and on a track, going from 80MPH to 20 MPH or 150MPH down to 60MPH.... that 15 pound becomes incredibly important though you might not know or feel it. Its mass becomes quite important. In the end my point is weight is weight, and reducing it is a big improvement if you going fast, but if you do it in combination with distribution it's even more relevant.

Thanks for explaining this so I didn’t have to.

 

[BMR Tech]

Weight distribution is obviously extremely important in Cars for handling and more. But just want to clarify as DB252 was speaking if you not doing all track all the time you are splitting some differences for a Street and Track use car.

For example regardless of weight Distribution lower weight is lower weight and for braking and other issues it a significant issue. For example let take a 10 lbs weight in the shape of a brick. If you try to slow its force when going 10 MPH, for the sake of argument say it take 50 pounds of energy/force to stop it forward momentum (this is not accurate, it only for illustrative purposes, you need an engineer to figures this stuff out). But when you double the speed of that Brick to 20 MPH it will not take just double the force required to stop that Brick... its an exponential equation, so that 10lbs brick now requires about 150 lbs to stop it when it is traveling 20MPH. And if you take that 10lbs brick up to 60MPH not we are talking like 600 lbs of force to stop it. As I said my numbers aren't accurate, but as speed increases it not just a linear equation of what it take to slow that mass, but rather and exponential increase of force required to stop that mass. So if you are talking even a 15lbs weight reduction and on a track, going from 80MPH to 20 MPH or 150MPH down to 60MPH.... that 15 pound becomes incredibly important though you might not know or feel it. Its mass becomes quite important. In the end my point is weight is weight, and reducing it is a big improvement if you going fast, but if you do it in combination with distribution it's even more relevant.

Hi Scott, I sent you an email. Thanks!

 

[Stuntman]

Weight distribution is obviously extremely important in Cars for handling and more. But just want to clarify as DB252 was speaking if you not doing all track all the time you are splitting some differences for a Street and Track use car.

For example regardless of weight Distribution lower weight is lower weight and for braking and other issues it a significant issue. For example let take a 10 lbs weight in the shape of a brick. If you try to slow its force when going 10 MPH, for the sake of argument say it take 50 pounds of energy/force to stop it forward momentum (this is not accurate, it only for illustrative purposes, you need an engineer to figures this stuff out). But when you double the speed of that Brick to 20 MPH it will not take just double the force required to stop that Brick... its an exponential equation, so that 10lbs brick now requires about 150 lbs to stop it when it is traveling 20MPH. And if you take that 10lbs brick up to 60MPH not we are talking like 600 lbs of force to stop it. As I said my numbers aren't accurate, but as speed increases it not just a linear equation of what it take to slow that mass, but rather and exponential increase of force required to stop that mass. So if you are talking even a 15lbs weight reduction and on a track, going from 80MPH to 20 MPH or 150MPH down to 60MPH.... that 15 pound becomes incredibly important though you might not know or feel it. Its mass becomes quite important. In the end my point is weight is weight, and reducing it is a big improvement if you going fast, but if you do it in combination with distribution it's even more relevant.

Moving weight to the rear can technically improve brake distribution due to that extra weight loading the rear tires more effectively, allowing them to contribute more to slowing the car down. S197 and S550 Mustangs are notorious for under utilizing the rear tires during braking, especially compared to a Camaro. This is why Mustangs have much smaller rear brakes.

Now if you leave the battery in the stock location, I agree with everything you said.

 

[icormba]

Got back from my 610 mile round trip and full track day with the Anti-gravity ATX-20 battery. Results: The dash readings fluctuated between 13.7v up to 14.5v between stops for gas and such. On track the voltages ranged from 13.9v to 14.2v max. I made it through the long journey and a full track day.

Special thanks to 50 Deep and his outstanding organizational skills... https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ignature-wheel-x-griggs-racing-x-fprs.116446/

 

[imbadatthis]

Does it matter when the battery recharge system is reset (with the old battery installed)? Or as long as it is prior to turning over the car with the lithium battery (so I could install lithium, and then reset)?

Apologies. I'm a process guy.

 

[db252]

I just installed my lithium and then did the reset. The reset will do some quirky stuff but will settle quickly.

 

[imbadatthis]

Thanks db.

I got as far as mounting tonight. Added some cheap heatshield protection for the battery. Will finish tomorrow.

By the way, thanks @cjgt350 !

 

[db252]

No worries and looks good. Very clean.

 

[Demonic]

Does it matter when the battery recharge system is reset (with the old battery installed)? Or as long as it is prior to turning over the car with the lithium battery (so I could install lithium, and then reset)?

Apologies. I'm a process guy.

You can reset it anytime you have the lithium battery in. It's not like you have to worry about turning the car over. The car will run fine without resetting it. The reset is just to adjust the charging profile a bit. But it needs to be while the lithium battery is in the car.

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