Camber question

[Jeffy_2010]

How does the -3° wear for normal daily use?[/QUOTE]

I dont have any abnormal wear on my street tires from my autox alignment, wears just fine

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[Grintch]

Just for reference, the way I read the SCCA rules, modifying the shock tower hole is illegal for most Solo & TT classes. Even combining two different types of camber adjustment is potentially a no-no, particularly when using adjustable control arms as 1.

For the rear aren't the options:
1 - stock slotted adjustment (max ~-2.0)
2 - Steeda camber kit (adds eccentric bolt - still - 2.0)
3 - adjustable control/camber arms

Can't you get more than - 2 with the camber arms?

 

[Cardude99]

Just for reference, the way I read the SCCA rules, modifying the shock tower hole is illegal for most Solo & TT classes. Even combining two different types of camber adjustment is potentially a no-no, particularly when using adjustable control arms as 1.

For the rear aren't the options:
1 - stock slotted adjustment (max ~-2.0)
2 - Steeda camber kit (adds eccentric bolt - still - 2.0)
3 - adjustable control/camber arms

Can't you get more than - 2 with the camber arms?

I just run test and tune I don't compete except against myself. My goal is just to become a better driver

 

[Grintch]

I just run test and tune I don't compete except against myself. My goal is just to become a better driver

Yeah, that like those half dozen Mustang drivers I talked to at a HPDE who didn't bother to get a PP because they never planned to track it. And regretted that decision after toasting the standard brakes.

 

[dmann]

Steeda plates will get you there, thats what I’m running.

If you want to routinely adjust camber back and forth, get the Vorshlag plates, they’re higher quality for that kind of thing. I just run 2.7 all day every day, and the Steeda plates are fine for that. Unlike the more expensive Vorshlag plates, the Steedas are not marked for repeatable adjustments off an alignment rack, but they do allow plenty of adjustment (wear is fine but I’ve only been on these 2.7 settings for 5 months, I daily drove 2.25+ camber for years). Even at 2.7 I dont have enough to fully even out track shoulder wear (but its reasonable)

this makes me want to try 2.7. Are you using dedicated track wheels/tires?

 

[NightmareMoon]

this makes me want to try 2.7. Are you using dedicated track wheels/tires?

Yeah, I daily on 19x10 ET35 and switch to dedicated 19x11" ET52 with a 25mm spacer up front for track or autox.

 

[dmann]

Yeah, I daily on 19x10 ET35 and switch to dedicated 19x11" ET52 with a 25mm spacer up front for track or autox.

hmmm, i may just do this. You sticking to -2.0 in the rear? What were you saying about the back end not sticking with more camber than that? Due to the straight line performance or cornering?

 

[NightmareMoon]

hmmm, i may just do this. You sticking to -2.0 in the rear? What were you saying about the back end not sticking with more camber than that? Due to the straight line performance or cornering?

Yeah, the recommendation from track guys is rear camber works at 2.0 (kind of regardless of the front settings). In my own experience accidentally going higher than that, traction does fall off a cliff if you have more than 2 degrees of rear camber. You just can't put power down without the rear sliding out. 2 sticks well enough I don't see much reason to go below that very much. Anything in the 1.7-2.0 range is probably pretty close for rear camber.

Now if your front camber is only close to 2.0 you might want to back off the rear camber slightly to preserve a bit of a camber stagger front/rear, but I don't really understand the precise engineering there, so I won't make any hard assertions.

 

[Cardude99]

I may try to do -2.5 front and -1.7 rear to start and see how well that works when I can get the needed parts later this year. Now I need to sort out what toe I want as I keep seeing numbers all over the place.

 

[dmann]

I may try to do -2.5 front and -1.7 rear to start and see how well that works when I can get the needed parts later this year. Now I need to sort out what toe I want as I keep seeing numbers all over the place.

i'm at -1.9 front and -1.5 rear and its not enough. I was thinking of going with -2.5 front and -1.9 rear but after his review in this thread I might go -2.7 front and -2.0 rear.

The recommended toe that I have received is 0 for the front and in .10 for the rear. This has worked well for me and have noticed no abnormal tire wear.

 

[Grintch]

i'm at -1.9 front and -1.5 rear and its not enough. I was thinking of going with -2.5 front and -1.9 rear but after his review in this thread I might go -2.7 front and -2.0 rear.

The recommended toe that I have received is 0 for the front and in .10 for the rear. This has worked well for me and have noticed no abnormal tire wear.

I am almost at that camber and it is not enough for only 5% track use, much less 40%. Even on mid range street tires (MPSS). Driven hard the tires might make 4 track weekends, with most of the wear on the outside of the tread, the classic not enough camber signature (both front and rear, but mostly front) . And with more aggressive, stickier tires I would expect more roll and more camber change (loss).

But 2.7/2.0 is probably close to the limit for a setup that can be daily driven. And it works pretty well on track, but at the expense of fairly high tire wear when you push it hard.

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