Sheenapple
Well-Known Member
They’re the type you torque to 150 ft/lbs. I gave you the link to where I bought them, and the type of car I drive.
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From a preload perspective, a fine thread bolt should be torqued more. It’s minor diameter is larger than a coarse thread bolt, so it’s strength in tension will be higher. The problem though, is the risk of pulling the threads out in softer materials.I sold my shops 2 years ago and retired at age 32, what in the fuck does a picture of a spacer do? have you not heard of this thing called the fucking internet?
Secondly, CAPSLOCK is not yelling, its simply capitol letters which are used to emphasize specific phrases or words. Like not KILLING your FAMILY by being STUPID and arguing with professionals and several people who have told you EXACTLY why you're wrong.
I will spell it out one more time for you and i really want you to read the words that im typing. I dont want you to try and come back with a witty retort about anything in this post before this *
Ok - Your torque spec on the studs of your hub is determined by how much clamping pressure is required to hold ANY mating surfaces together at speed and torque levels that the car can exert. How much that torque rating is is determined also by the width of the studs and pitch of the thread(how far away the threads are from eachother, like coarse or fine threads. Coarse threads require MORE torque to be tightened which are the style of threads that we use.) using those inputs and into a calculation that i cannot and dont really care about, ford engineers came up with 150ft lbs of torque. Now im going to tell you something you may not know. Your wheel is not held onto the hub via the studs in a rotational manner, the studs do not stop the wheel from rotating. It is 100% the job of the clamping forces from the pressure that the nuts put on the wheel and the friction between the hub and the wheels surface.
If you put a spacer on your vehicle that only torques to 90 or 110lbs you are putting significantly less clamping strength and friction between the hub and the spacer, you need to think of the spacer as an extension of the WHEEL, not an extension of the hub. ANY and ALL specs regarding wheel torque are applied to the spacers as they must have the SAME clamping and friction as the wheel did.
Now as i said, if your spacer cannot handle 150 pounds of torque then you need a different spacer. Im not saying not to use a spacer im just telling you to use the right ones. MOST 6061 or 7075 billit aluminum spacers should be able to handle 150lbs torque, MOST spacers include instructions that specifically say to torque them to the vehicles specs. MOST spacers should be fine but IF your spacer crushes itself under 150lbs you know you have a shitty spacer, likely made from low grade or faulty materials and likely made in china and rebranded.
Fine threaded bolts have more surface area and thus require less torque to hold the same amount of mass but as you said they run the risk of pulling the threads out.From a preload perspective, a fine thread bolt should be torqued more. It’s minor diameter is larger than a coarse thread bolt, so it’s strength in tension will be higher. The problem though, is the risk of pulling the threads out in softer materials.
As to torque values for spacer/hub, depending on spacer thickness, the ford suggested lug nut torque may not be optimum. That being said, it’s likely not that far off, and should be well within any engineered safety factor.
For the spacer to wheel joint, again the ford suggested lug nut value is likely not optimized, as the fastener interface is not as originally designed.