Performance Package Specs

[MaskedRacerX]

True, it sounds like I'm simply another loser justifying his decision to save $4000. But permit me to ramble.
Yes, the 16 PP handled better and provided increased road feel than my 19 does. That said, not by leaps and bounds.

FWIW ...

I'm seriously considering moving from my current '16 GT PP convertible (6-speed manual, the only factory option for 16-17 for verts), to a '18/19 GT convertible with the A10 and I may not do another PP car. Since I'd definitely want to lower it (again), I'd be swapping out springs, and I'd also swap to a larger wheel/tire setup (maybe even my current one swapped over). I kind of prefer the 3 center AC vents, since I'd like to switch one over to an nGauge without losing too much cooling capacity.

Since it's a vert, it's very likely it will never see a track, so some of the additional perks that are very track focused are essentially "wasted". I do think the TORSEN rear is a notable upgrade, and while even the standard GT brakes are more than adequate for the street, I'd miss the visual impact of the front Brembos behind an open design 20" wheel.

What I'm seeing though, especially in the used market, is (unsurprisingly) more non-PP cars, with better discounts (as a percentage of the original MSRP). I think if I found a CPO'ed '18 GT vert, A10, my color, loaded but without the PP for a killer deal, I wouldn't sweat it too much

I'll bite.

What did your PP1 option cost you?

They're probably just considering it discounted based on the price of the car of the car, i.e., you get a $45K GT for $36-37K, the PP portion is ~$3200. Heck, you could even say, you got the car for $41K and the PP for free

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[Zinc03svt]

I'll bite.

What did your PP1 option cost you?

The iron case 3.55 torsen rear is $1000-1100 by itself. How is it possible to duplicate (all) the pp1 specs for less installed versus buying the car discounted from the getgo? Labor...?

I get it if you do not want everthing that is offered in the pp package. Buy the base then. But, in the end the pp is a great value when purchased at a decent discount IMO.

34k range for car. Stickered 41,680.

 

[Norm Peterson]

dbegley said: ↑
.......the Ford springs are progressive coil springs. That includes the stock springs......Read an interesting article.....Comparing progressive VS linear springs, the progressive not only give a better ride, but actually provide better handling than linear springs.

Can you provide a link to this article? The OEM PP1 springs are progressives?

As far as providing better handling, that's just the manufacturers opinion, it should be taken with a grain of salt.

Count me in for wanting a link.

All the logic I've seen claiming that progressively-wound springs are better for handling than linears doesn't exactly pass the sniff test. Better than base OE, quite possibly. But better than linears when the unloaded side of the progressively-sprung car goes into the "soft" range in a corner . . . uh-uh. Never mind when the two ends of the car don't get the inside springs up into the soft rate regions together (and your LLTD wanders back and forth while the car struggles to take a set).


Norm

 

[Dusten]

The iron case 3.55 torsen rear is $1000-1100 by itself. How is it possible to duplicate (all) the pp1 specs for less installed versus buying the car discounted from the getgo? Labor...?

I get it if you do not want everthing that is offered in the pp package. Buy the base then. But, in the end the pp is a great value when purchased at a decent discount IMO.

34k range for car. Stickered 41,680.

his point was more that your car was likely 3-4k more than a non pp1 car, based on the price of the option.

IE my car was 47 sticker and I paid 38k, but I bet without the PP I could've paid 35ish

 

[NoVaGT]

34k range for car. Stickered 41,680.

I'm totally confused by your post I quoted earlier;

"Does everybody pay retail for there car these days? My 18 GT pp1 option did not cost me 4 grand...

What the Fek..."

You got a good discount on your car, and that's great. It doesn't change the fact that the PP1 option costs $4K. Which, I think most agree, is a great value for your money.

 

[Bluelightning]

The iron case 3.55 torsen rear is $1000-1100 by itself. How is it possible to duplicate (all) the pp1 specs for less installed versus buying the car discounted from the getgo? Labor...?

I get it if you do not want everthing that is offered in the pp package. Buy the base then. But, in the end the pp is a great value when purchased at a decent discount IMO.

34k range for car. Stickered 41,680.

You can't do the upgrades aftermarket for the same amount of money. I picked up my 18 PP1 car in February of 18. Sticker was 44,680, and I got out the door with taxes for $38K and some change, so I would say that I didn't pay full price for the option. That being said, I've swapped all the suspension out already, but I really like the gauges in the center dash....

 

[nastang87xx]

Does everybody pay retail for there car these days?

Did you really just say retail?

 

[Kevin08]

You can't do the upgrades aftermarket for the same amount of money. I picked up my 18 PP1 car in February of 18. Sticker was 44,680, and I got out the door with taxes for $38K and some change, so I would say that I didn't pay full price for the option. That being said, I've swapped all the suspension out already, but I really like the gauges in the center dash....

You got about $10k off MSRP before taxes on a car that was only on the market for about 4 months? Eh....Texas must be a heavily over-saturated market. They don't even sell for that low here, now.

 

[ChromaticGrey]

In this thread, a few people who got killer deals not realizing that not every mustang is going to get discounted 10k. Man i'd love to have bought a brand new 19 PP for 30k, that would have been sweet.

 

[Zinc03svt]

I think the pp1 is a good value (bang for the buck) once you actually calculate in all the parts that are upgraded. Again most people are buying these below retail which makes it an even better value prop. I like running back roads through hills just as much as blasting the 1320. The extra factory goodies are worth it too me.

 

[Ghost50]

Value is also a perceived thing.

Mine stickered for $47k. I walked out the door at $40k. I didn’t expect them to knock that much off considering I was one of the first to buy a 2019 from my particular dealer (bought in August 2018).

I feel I got a good deal. I went in not even realizing they had 2019’s on the lot yet. I was hoping to get a good deal on an 18 since I knew they’d be making way for the 19’s soon.

There was a shadow black 18 PP1 400A that I had them down to $35k on before we walked the lot and I saw the car I ended up buying. I didn’t push as hard on that one but I probably could’ve had it for $32k.

So I feel like I got what I wanted for a fair price.

 

[Dusten]

In this thread, a few people who got killer deals not realizing that not every mustang is going to get discounted 10k. Man i'd love to have bought a brand new 19 PP for 30k, that would have been sweet.

The 10k off isnt the issue. We are stating that regardless of the deal you get you're likely paying 3-4k more for a pp1 than a non pp car

 

[FreedomPenguin]

Crazy deals for 19’s I got my 17 eb premium pony pack (33k sticker) for 23k brand new no miles first owner last month it’s been sitting on showroom since it was delivered 2 years ago.

I got 10k off but I can’t imagine a new car.

 

[505bbjason]

I was able to get my ‘19, PP1, 10 Speed, 301A for $36.5. Wound up $8k off sticker, I can’t complain.

 

[ChromaticGrey]

The 10k off isnt the issue. We are stating that regardless of the deal you get you're likely paying 3-4k more for a pp1 than a non pp car

I agree with that for sure. Also think 4k for everything you get installed from the factory is a great deal, personally.

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