I DON'T have the tick but I have the 2K Rattle

[GT Pony]

It is unfortunate for some.
So if it ticks or rattled means there is metal in the oil & filter?

Some guys have found metal in the oil and filter, so obviously those engines have major problems and end up getting replaced under warranty by Ford.

IMO, anyone who thinks their engine is making abnormal noises should inspect inside the oil filter for signs of wear metals. I cut open every oil filter I change regardless of how the engine sounds because it's a good way to monitor engine health.

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[Fastfwd]

My 2015 is specified to hold 8 quarts, but it always takes 8.5 qts to hit the full mark, so that's what goes in. I let the oil drain quite awhile with the front wheels on ramps. Bottom line is trust the dipstick. As you may already know, top of the hashed area is full when cold, and the top hole is full when fully hot. I've verified that many times on my 2015 and a few 2018 guys have said the same thing seen on their's.

I will add 1/2 qt when it goes down to the 1/2 way point on the dipstick, so ignore the stupid owner's manual. Just know it's 1 qt from the bottom to the top of the hashed area when the oil is cold and go from there. I've checked the hashed area range and its pretty linear on my 2015 at least, so it's a pretty accurate gauge of oil level.

I fully understand what you are saying. My opinion is that in retrospect I would have gone ahead and added the extra half quart when I took ownership and maybe tried to do a more thorough search on the topic when I changed the oil. I'm not naming names, but I found an oil change on one of these on Youtube and that guy and apparently many others have just run with adding 10 quarts and leaving it where it landed with that which is in the middle of the dipstick and in the 'acceptable' range between 'minimum' and 'maximum.' As I've stated - with 10 quarts of oil in play I was fearful of overfilling without knowing exactly how much expansion might take place when the temps here hit potentially over 110f. The language of the owners manual to me lends to their being possibly more caution than is really necessary pertaining to topping off the oil level.

I've owned this car less than 4 months. Which means I did make the adjustment within roughly 90 days of ownership. I just trusted that it wouldn't cause any harm and frankly I have no evidence that it did. In retrospect, I would have done it differently and I hope others find my experience useful if they buy one of these cars.

I'm a magnet for controversy unfortunately and right now this is a hot topic locally of the most recent example of 'how dumb I am' which is a theme. I might point out that I'm not any 'dumber' than the manufacturer who apparently put 10 quarts in the car from the factory which landed the level right in the middle of the dipstick and then printed in black and white 'Do Not Add Oil' until the dipstick reads 'Minimum' and has specified that the oil capacity is 10 quarts - not 10.5 quarts.

If we go with the theory that I'm 'dumb' and in turn if that's the case the 'manufacturer' must be 'dumb' to provide vehicles to customers who probably 9 out of 10 will assume their new car has as much oil in it as it needs and it turns out that condition of oil level does lend to damaging the engine then it might explain why so many cars seem to have been approved for a new motor in the first 1k miles, etc. before they decided that it was going to bankrupt the company to keep doing that and they put out the statement that no further repairs were going to be made simply based on the 'typewriter tick' noise (which I can frankly sort of understand to some degree, but they were obviously finding evidence of damage in most of those instances I'm sure).

My 'Typewriter Tick' frankly has become LESS prominent since I did my oil change at 3k miles. No idea why. I used Motorcraft 5-20 as specified and only put in 10 quarts which made it read to have the same level as it had from the factory. The '2K Rattle' is what really got my attention that there is maybe something more happening and when I did finally top off my oil level it seemed to my ears to make the engine sound much more content. I felt like I heard a definitive reduction in the very same noise that had been troubling me. Maybe it was a coincidence and temporary idk.

I would just suggest that anyone else who feels like you are having this issue - if you haven't checked to make sure your oil level is safely running at the 'maximum' hot level that you might try it and see if it helps at all. I felt like it helped me, but maybe it was some kind of placebo effect idk. I usually have a fairly decent seat of the pants feel for what is happening with my vehicles, but I'm not a mechanic.

All that said - dude, this car is a rocket. I'm amazed with it. I honestly just want for it to run just like it is running for as long as I own it. I am absolutely not looking to nitpick over it to find a reason to complain. I have avoided these forums because I feared that it would lend to me looking for problems that might not exist. I'm frankly shocked to find others who have experienced this exact same thing though and I hope that it's nothing. Vacuum noise, piped in engine noise amplification, anything other than evidence of a serious problem like the rod bearings or whatever has been mentioned here.

 

[jmcdermotthn2]

My 2019 was made in Nov 11 2018 car had 9 miles on it at time of delivery, test drove the car and no noises of any kind. At 200 miles it started to tick cold or hot didn't matter and also had a piston rattle from 1500 - 2800 rpm on light throttle from a dead stop. Continued to drive it to 400 miles dumped the factory fill oil and cut the oil filter open no metal just a few small pieces of silicone and a few specs of aluminum. Re filled it with Rotella T6 and a new Ford filter along with 2 bottles of Ceratec ticking is gone and the motor is overall smoother and quitter, however still has the piston slap rattle at rpm. Currently at 585 miles pulled all 8 plugs last night and bore scoped the cylinders all looked good there were some faint lines from piston motion which is normal, cylinders 1, 3 & 8 had slightly more scratches than the rest by a small margin. Going to put another 200 - 300 miles on it then going to cut the oil filter open again and inspect it for metal, I believe the issue is PTW cold is good then the blocks fully warms up and the block grows but the cast / hypereutectic pistons don't grow enough to make up the difference hence the clearance increases and the slap occurs. May try to do a cold start and then drive it within a couple of minutes at light throttle to see if it rattles when cold if it doesn't then my theory holds water. May explain why the GT 350 shares the same issues cold but when the block warms up the forged pistons grow enough to make up the clearance and the sound goes away.

My 2019 was made in Nov 11 2018 car had 9 miles on it at time of delivery, test drove the car and no noises of any kind. At 200 miles it started to tick cold or hot didn't matter and also had a piston rattle from 1500 - 2800 rpm on light throttle from a dead stop. Continued to drive it to 400 miles dumped the factory fill oil and cut the oil filter open no metal just a few small pieces of silicone and a few specs of aluminum. Re filled it with Rotella T6 and a new Ford filter along with 2 bottles of Ceratec ticking is gone and the motor is overall smoother and quitter, however still has the piston slap rattle at rpm. Currently at 585 miles pulled all 8 plugs last night and bore scoped the cylinders all looked good there were some faint lines from piston motion which is normal, cylinders 1, 3 & 8 had slightly more scratches than the rest by a small margin. Going to put another 200 - 300 miles on it then going to cut the oil filter open again and inspect it for metal, I believe the issue is PTW cold is good then the blocks fully warms up and the block grows but the cast / hypereutectic pistons don't grow enough to make up the difference hence the clearance increases and the slap occurs. May try to do a cold start and then drive it within a couple of minutes at light throttle to see if it rattles when cold if it doesn't then my theory holds water. May explain why the GT 350 shares the same issues cold but when the block warms up the forged pistons grow enough to make up the clearance and the sound goes away.

2018 Mustang GT Performance Pack manual - exact same issues / experience. I did the same thing changing the oil (went with a thicker 0/40 / Ceratec etc - exactly the same. and it is maddening. Your description is excellent and there are so many of us who have this exact same problem as this is a major issue for Ford. The oil change with Ceratec also quieted the car significantly at idle / start up. I now have 2,800 miles and the 2k rattle is still there most of the time (90%) - warm or cold, in all gears the rattle is there. Piston slap on the bottom right side of the engine is still there but much quitter. I took it to two dealers and they acknowledged the noise and said it was normal. (I think the mechanics and techs who test drove the car with me know there is a serious problem). There have been a few times that the car has not made the noise and runs / sounds great which makes it worse because you think the problem has gone away. You park start it, turn on / off and the 2k rattle noise is there again. I have always used 93 octane not abused the car etc.

The shift lock out from 2nd to 3rd is also major issue as are the forks. Most of the time you have to gently shift into third gear to get it to engage which is totally unacceptable. I bought an MGW short throw and I know that will alleviate that problem but i have not had it installed due to the issues.

I also tried a Octane booster (Royal Purple), which I know isn't much of a booster. I thought that was helping but the rattle is still there now. It is really getting ridiculous. Band Aids when the patient needs surgery.

Before I bought this car I test drove a 2018 with a Barton short throw and Corsa cat back and loved the way it sounded and drove - I was sold (I did not buy that car, I bought a new one. I also test drove the Camaro 1LE (that is a superior car) and a Scat Pack 6.4 litre (that car is an absolute beast), but this car (if running properly) is a better daily driver than those two cars. My car is white with black lemans stripes and is an absolutely beautiful car.

If someone could convince me that the 2k rattle could be fixed i would consider keeping the car. The F150 has a TSB out on the problem but the dealer would not acknowledge that would fix my car. Also if you get a new engine your car would be considered a lemon so that is not a great option.

Will the 2k rattle ever go away by itself ? Can I live with that driving daily - the answer is no. I have owned more than 20 cars in my life - Muscle cars, BMW / Volvo / Honda / Toyota / 2 Ford Explorers and I am seriously having my doubts. There must be thousands of people with this issue.

I am considering taking a loss on the car and trading this in but man what a headache.

How do we get rid of the 2k rattle ?

 

[Lo Pony]

With a 10 quart oil capacity, a half a quart low, or even a 1 or 2 quart shortage of oil is not going to make any difference under normal circumstances guys. Like all other production cars back to the 1940s, and probably beyond, there is a considerable safety margin built into the oil capacity and the needs of a running engine. It is not reasonable to think that it can pump that much oil to the top of the engine and starve the bottom end on these engines. Unless you’re running 7500 rpm in a nascar race.

Mine makes a little rattle. I’m not that concerned because no one has yet to definitively show cause and effect of this little rattle with reliability or longevity of the engine. Plus, if the noise can come and go, it really can’t be that serious can it? There are plenty of F150s and 2018 mustangs that have this engine and over 60,000 hard miles by now.

I’m not defending Ford, and yes, this engine is a little bit noisier than what I am used to. But it is important to consider how easy it is to get caught up in forum hysteria, especially when some seem to believe that 0.5 quart of oil below full can make a difference. It is nonsense.

If it makes good power, doesn’t consume oil or smoke, and runs like a rocket, which these cars definitely do, it’s OK. This has always been the case. Not that there haven’t been some that have serious engine problems, but some rattle at 2000 RPM is not one of these problems. Do you think someone that had a 428 cobra jet or a 426 hemi in the 60s would’ve been concerned about a slight rattling noise at 2000 RPM? Also, those engines didn’t have four cams and 32 valves to clatter around like these do. That’s just the beginning of how these engines can make more noise.

I could be wrong on all this. But this thread has gone way past paranoia into hysteria. Let’s all keep an ear on the noise, and see if there’s is a trend of people with problems that can be proven to be related to this noise

 

[Lo Pony]

How about an experiment. Anyone who is concerned about the rattle, fill your engine with thicker oil. Start at 5W 30, or 10W-30. See if that makes a difference in the rattle, and there is absolutely no way this will harm your engine.

I’m definitely going to at least 5W 30 on my next oil change, and I may do it sooner, I just haven’t gotten around to it yet. The 5W 20 oil is like water, and Ford recommends to put in a heavier oil if you’re going to be doing a track event. For my car, I consider a track event to be happening every time I drive it.

If this calms the rattle, then so much the better. If it doesn’t, it’s not likely to be related to engine clearances that differ by 0.001 inch or so. Therefore, if your engine doesn’t burn oil, or smoke, and makes great power, it’s probably nothing to worry about

 

[Mazman]

Hi
I have promised myself not let this get the best of me.

My first motor had scoring and had to be replaced. The reason I took it in was that I had a really bad sound from the top/manifold area.
I noticed this some days after I got the car back in May 2018.

Said and done the motor was replaced by a motor built in June 2018. The new motor sounded exactly these with the addition of a more pronounced typewriter tick.
The sound from the top/manifold was still there. The dealer changed the injectors to see if that solved the issue but it did not, then they disconnected the IMRC and most of the sounds at least in idle went a away so the manifold was replaced.

However I still have the typewriter tick, 2k slap and also lift of rattle. I was in yesterday to get the lift off rattle documented (not the dealer where the car was bought from)
The dealer were I purchased the car from says it is normal the one and only Ford tech in Sweden that represents Ford coorporate says all is normal lol. I have asked for documentation that gives insight in that the 2K slap and lift of rattle are normal and are not causing any damage to the motor buzt of course no such documentation has been provided.

I am to invested in the car to get rid of and they don't want to replace the car.

So what I am trying to say is
- either live with it
- if you get lucky and get a new car that is running fine and still want a Mustang go for that route
- get rid of it


As long as Ford coorporate has not released anything specific regarding the 2K slap I think it is going to be difficult to get treated right. Again if you are lucky and you have dealer that maybe go a little extra and help you out with e.g. a bore scope to check the condition etc then maybe you have a shot otherwise I think it is going to be difficult to have something done to it.

 

[Lo Pony]

Hi
I have promised myself not let this get the best of me.

My first motor had scoring and had to be replaced. The reason I took it in was that I had a really bad sound from the top/manifold area.
I noticed this some days after I got the car back in May 2018.

Said and done the motor was replaced by a motor built in June 2018. The new motor sounded exactly these with the addition of a more pronounced typewriter tick.
The sound from the top/manifold was still there. The dealer changed the injectors to see if that solved the issue but it did not, then they disconnected the IMRC and most of the sounds at least in idle went a away so the manifold was replaced.

However I still have the typewriter tick, 2k slap and also lift of rattle. I was in yesterday to get the lift off rattle documented (not the dealer where the car was bought from)
The dealer were I purchased the car from says it is normal the one and only Ford tech in Sweden that represents Ford coorporate says all is normal lol. I have asked for documentation that gives insight in that the 2K slap and lift of rattle are normal and are not causing any damage to the motor buzt of course no such documentation has been provided.

I am to invested in the car to get rid of and they don't want to replace the car.

So what I am trying to say is
- either live with it
- if you get lucky and get a new car that is running fine and still want a Mustang go for that route
- get rid of it


As long as Ford coorporate has not released anything specific regarding the 2K slap I think it is going to be difficult to get treated right. Again if you are lucky and you have dealer that maybe go a little extra and help you out with e.g. a bore scope to check the condition etc then maybe you have a shot otherwise I think it is going to be difficult to have something done to it.

If you are having this many problems and this unhappy, I would just sell the car and not look back. Cut it loose, life is too short. I agree, do not expect Ford to do anything to help your case. You’re unlucky, because most cars are getting along fine. I hate to hear that man, and I feel your pain. I’m rooting for you.

Peace.

 

[Mazman]

If you are having this many problems and this unhappy, I would just sell the car and not look back. Cut it loose, life is too short. I agree, do not expect Ford to do anything to help your case. You’re unlucky, because most cars are getting along fine. I hate to hear that man. Peace out.

Thanks

those are not all the issue, but that is for another thread (just a hint I need to re-paint some more panels under warranty.... lol)

 

[Dobro]

Today my dealer called after having my mustang for 4 days and said the sound is perfectly normal. I have the 2k rattle, not the bbq tick. Sounds like a diesel... gonna escalate

 

[stangman638]

Stop poking and proddng your damn cars before you actually cause an issue from poking and prodding and than blame Ford.

 

[stangman638]

Today my dealer called after having my mustang for 4 days and said the sound is perfectly normal. I have the 2k rattle, not the bbq tick. Sounds like a diesel... gonna escalate

It is normal... Im starting to think you have never owned a car... even a ford van I drive displays similar characteristics...

You are not only on a wild goose chase, your paying for a car your not driving and wasting your own time, the joke is on you.

 

[Nomadic]

It is normal... Im starting to think you have never owned a car... even a ford van I drive displays similar characteristics...

You are not only on a wild goose chase, your paying for a car your not driving and wasting your own time, the joke is on you.

It's normal......for an '18 or '19 Mustang GT. My '15 never exhibited this. I have the 2k rattle as well. I don't think it's getting a louder but it's definitely a little weird when that diesel sound kicks in. I don't think Ford is going to do a damn thing about it unless a TSB comes out though.

As far "never owning a car". I think you've never owned a quality car if you think this is normal. Maybe for a Ford it is.

 

[bootlegger]

It's normal......for an '18 or '19 Mustang GT. My '15 never exhibited this. I have the 2k rattle as well. I don't think it's getting a louder but it's definitely a little weird when that diesel sound kicks in. I don't think Ford is going to do a damn thing about it unless a TSB comes out though.

As far "never owning a car". I think you've never owned a quality car if you think this is normal. Maybe for a Ford it is.

Yeah, it may be normal for a 2018+ GT, but it isn't exactly normal. I have owned many cars, some expensive and some sh1tty. This engine sounded worse than most. Thanks to ceratec and a loud exhaust, I have it to a level where I can live with it. I don't blame people for being pissed about it.

 

[Jetnoise]

I could be wrong on all this. But this thread has gone way past paranoia into hysteria. Let’s all keep an ear on the noise, and see if there’s is a trend of people with problems that can be proven to be related to this noise

Agreed....and well put.
Communication will help prove it is related or not. I personally think we are getting closer to a fix that resembles ......
not a concern noise
not a concern noise ...it's the IRCM or dilethium crystal issue
it's the block plate,
It's we are having an 'oh shit ' moment on the 12th floor
It will make its way out

 

[BonJayvi]

Hey.

Just throwing in my experience with the rattle on my 2018 GT (bought April 2018 and never winter driven) with about 16000km (10000 miles) on it. My rattle sounds more like its coming from the transmission instead of the engine. Can really hear it driving down streets with houses or anywhere else the sound really echos and with the windows down. Windows up, its noticeable, but not as much and probably because i know what to listen for.
I did add 2 bottles of ceratec after my last oil change and the engine does run slightly smoother, but no extreme difference (never had the bbq tick issue luckily). I swear its random too. Had it on cold starts driving to work in the mornings and heard it when the cars hot after driving around for a few hours.

Took it in to my local dealership for the rattle to be looked at. Drove around with a tech who admitted to hearing it and said it didnt sound right. Left it with them for 2 days to look at. The tech ended up contacting a ford engineer about the noise and they came back saying, "Ford says the amount of noise we have is normal at this time and we have compared it to a like unit that was here with similar mileage and options. The manual dose have multiple moving components and is expected to make some mechanical noise’s. You have 5 years 100,00km’s of warranty on the power train so there is lots of warranty left. They are net recommending any further diagnosis at this time."

So thats where I am with it. The noise doesnt sound or feel right, but maybe thats just how it is with these cars. I dunno... hopefully something can be done at some point for it. Sucks having a new car like this that randomly sounds like hot garbage.

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