Just ordered Antigravity Lithium Battery

[Sagittaria]

If anyone's curious. I've flipped over to the Ford GT Battery Profile "05" a couple days ago along with another battery reset. Still collecting data so it may be a little bit based on my resting voltage SOC measurements previously.

Noted however the battery charges a little lower now @ 14.4. On the OEM profile I was seeing 14.5-14.6 during my 20-30 minute commutes.

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[icormba]

If anyone's curious. I've flipped over to the Ford GT Battery Profile "05" a couple days ago along with another battery reset. Still collecting data so it may be a little bit based on my resting voltage SOC measurements previously.

Noted however the battery charges a little lower now @ 14.4. On the OEM profile I was seeing 14.5-14.6 during my 20-30 minute commutes.

Last few days for me the voltage has been steady at 14.0 for my 20 min commutes on the OEM "reset" profile. ... if this helps? I was seeing 14.3-14.5 when I first did the switch a few weeks ago.

 

[Demonic]

If anyone's curious. I've flipped over to the Ford GT Battery Profile "05" a couple days ago along with another battery reset. Still collecting data so it may be a little bit based on my resting voltage SOC measurements previously.

Noted however the battery charges a little lower now @ 14.4. On the OEM profile I was seeing 14.5-14.6 during my 20-30 minute commutes.

That’s exactly what I’m hoping for with the Ford GT profile. When you get a chance if you have the car idling while the HUD shows a voltage of over 14V, could you put your fluke on the terminals and see what the true voltage of the system is? The voltage shown on the HUD tends to be slightly lower, so I bought one of those cheap cigarette lighter voltage displays so I can see what the real voltage is while I’m driving. I just moved yesterday, so as much as I want to tinker with the new H5 I’ve been overwhelmed.

Last few days for me the voltage has been steady at 14.0 for my 20 min commutes on the OEM "reset" profile. ... if this helps? I was seeing 14.3-14.5 when I first did the switch a few weeks ago.

Yes that’s what we’d expect to see. Before resetting the BCM of the charge system will think the smaller capacity of the lithium battery is the original battery going dead and try to compensate by upping the voltage. Once you reset the car learns that the actual capacity is now lower.

 

[M2M]

Hello All. Have been following this post for a while now. I have a question: Note I do not have a GT350 but I do have a Mustang and was wondering if anyone knew if it has the Ford Smart Charging system or is it to old.

I am looking at the Antigravity ATX30-RS for my 2000 GT track car.

Thanks for reading.

Marcus

 

[Antigravity Batteries]

Is there any solid method of measuring state of charge? Short of a coulomb counter which is what I suspect is employed on these cars?

Well if you doing it with a Multi-meter or your system on your Car... then 13.2 is in a fine state of charge. That is the nominal/resting voltage of the battery. Within that you will also see from 13.3~ 13.7.... but after it has sat and settled to its nominal is actually 13.2v. And at that voltage you are great.... and if you car is holding that for a week or more then you very good. Because you have to consider the fact that while powerful, this is a Small Amp Hour Capacity. For example if you had 13.2v in a 30Ah battery or 40Ah battery it is going to hold that state of charge much longer than a battery that is half its Capacity at 15Ah. So that 13.2 may last 2 weeks, maybe less, maybe more, depending on extra accessories or other variables in a 15Ah battery where in a 30ah batteries its month or more. So you have to look at these variable.

But for the individual batteries they will always go to sitting at 13.2v on average. So if your there then just consider yourself in a fine state of charge.

But now its time to introduce you to our KILLER, SUPER COOL new Product THE BATTERY TRACKER... It will take care of Monitoring the voltage in you battery.

The Battery Tracker, is a BlueTooth Voltage Tracking device for LIthium and also Lead/Acid Batteries. So whats cool is it will transmit the voltage data, real-time, and historical Data if you are within 30ft of the car. No need to even turn on the car or open the hood to check realtime voltage or the history. Its all sent to the phone.

So it will show you real-time voltage over a 5 minute span, so you can see the voltage drops from opening your door or turning on lights and it also shows you a historical voltage over 31 days. So you can actually see how fast your voltage is declining over the preceding 31 days, or if you didn't drive for a week. It also had a Start Test and a Charging system test (basic but give you an idea of what is going on) So its a massively useful tool for this type of application. And for hot-rodders/performance owners... as well as the average person. It also will alert you through your phone to a low battery.

Below is a video Explainer.

 

[Sagittaria]

That’s exactly what I’m hoping for with the Ford GT profile. When you get a chance if you have the car idling while the HUD shows a voltage of over 14V, could you put your fluke on the terminals and see what the true voltage of the system is?

Sorry folks. Reporting back a little late after a few weeks running it.

Resting voltages basically tested the same with the lithium profile as Antigravity was saying after several tests.

Demonic: Yup you are correct. The HUD showed 14.5v. Multimeter showed 14.8. Scary seeing as how the the listed max voltage is 14.7v... I have seen a high of 14.6v at the HUD on both profiles...

So in a nut shell, I have no concrete proof showing a difference between the lithium battery profile and others. I'll keep running it an do some more testing. As far as I can tell they operate the same. I have yet to go on a long trip however. Curious to see how long it takes for the lithium profile to back the voltage off after say an hour of driving.

 

[icormba]

I'll be headed down to Willow Springs Raceway in SoCal this weekend, which is about a 5 hour drive. I can report back on HUD voltage. Maybe Antigravity batteries could meet us there? Should be about 15-20 GT350's on track Monday, 4/15. @Antigravity Batteries testing/sales op!

 

[db252]

Added the Antigravity H5 40ah today. This is the heaviest and most powerful of the three (all same physical size) in that model range and you can see the weight below including the stock battery. My install is in the trunk also using the Watson Racing relocation kit albeit mine is in the spare well instead of upper left or rights side of the trunk.

I talked with Scott at @Antigravity Batteries plenty and he was confident that any of the three would work in my setup and ultimately it was my choice going with the 40ah because I wanted a set it and forget it operation NOT that any of the others wouldn't. My car gets driven as a daily for the most part with occasional road course use and is pretty heavily modified. We also talked about all the options that are capable using forscan and he said there is no reason to change. He did go on to say that if he were to choose one, it would be the lowest amp hour AGM battery (03 on the forscan list) just because it is the most relatable to lithium charging pattern and we did include the forscan lithium setting option as well. In the end he said just leave it as the stock system is and that's where I have it now granted this is day 1. First start up was without hesitation not that I expected anything less.

 

[Dominator961]

Added the Antigravity H5 40ah today. This is the heaviest and most powerful of the three (all same physical size) in that model range and you can see the weight below including the stock battery. My install is in the trunk also using the Watson Racing relocation kit albeit mine is in the spare well instead of upper left or rights side of the trunk.

I talked with Scott at @Antigravity Batteries plenty and he was confident that any of the three would work in my setup and ultimately it was my choice going with the 40ah because I wanted a set it and forget it operation NOT that any of the others wouldn't. My car gets driven as a daily for the most part with occasional road course use and is pretty heavily modified. We also talked about all the options that are capable using forscan and he said there is no reason to change. He did go on to say that if he were to choose one, it would be the lowest amp hour AGM battery (03 on the forscan list) just because it is the most relatable to lithium charging pattern and we did include the forscan lithium setting option as well. In the end he said just leave it as the stock system is and that's where I have it now granted this is day 1. First start up was without hesitation not that I expected anything less.

Why did you go with the antigravity battery if you’re installing it in the trunk?
The weight you saved from the battery alone just added the weight back from the battery cable and terminals. Just asking.

 

[Stuntman]

Weight distribution.

 

[Dominator961]

Weight distribution.

I know what the purpose is. I’m asking why he didn’t just keep the lead acid battery.

Another thing is,
The oem battery is right side mounted.
The engine is offset to the right.
The driver is sitting on the left.

 

[db252]

I am more concerned with weight bias making the car neutral rather than utter reduction of weight. I’m not building a track car but I have my fun 5-7 times a year on local road courses. With 900hp and 700tq (less on track since not running E85) weight is not an issue (of course it’s a factor all things considered); stopping it may but that’s been compensated as well. I have a Whipple and all its accompanying components up front so I wanted the weight relocated and was running the stock battery in the trunk. My original oem battery was beginning to show signs of weakening so I had the opportunity to lighten up a bit. If I was going for total weight reduction I would have run the 24ah version. Driver on the left and battery on the right isn’t of concern as much as an oem battery up high and concentrated over one wheel is. What you are after and I are after are probably much different things. I’m adding a JL Stealthbox subwoofer and amp to the back so there goes what I saved......yeah I don’t care.

Everything else the antigravity battery offers are leaps ahead of lead acid batteries.

 

[Demonic]

I dropped the new H5 into my car. It was perfectly fine the first time around. But second time when the car tried to adapt more it started to act a bit weird. I’m out of the country at the moment but am hoping next week I’ll be able to play around with it on FORScan and see what’s happening. Apparently as db252 noted I suppose it runs fine on a Mustang GT. Does anyone know off the top of their head if there are any part number or part differences in the Mustang GT charging system? If it’s only software differences then I may just compare the as-built data on a Mustang GT and look to see if anything is different other than the charging profile.

 

[Checkmate]

Not trying to be a downer but - Just ask BBI in California about their experience with Lithium Batteries. I am never buying one after all the horror stories on burning.

 

[icormba]

Not trying to be a downer but - Just ask BBI in California about their experience with Lithium Batteries. I am never buying one after all the horror stories on burning.

Who is BBI?

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