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Brakes, need advice

ctandc72

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Me personally, the first thing I would do is jack up the car and remove a front wheel. Check the brake pads and see what they look like. Look for any grooves or weird wear on the rotors. They might not even need replacing. Weird stuff happens with cars. I once got a small pebble lodged in between a brake pad and the rotor on a car. Don't ask - I don't know how it happened. Pads weren't even worn. Sanded the rotor down, lubed everything up and never touched the brakes on that vehicle for the next few years I owned.

Disc brake replacement is one of the easiest jobs you can do on your car. One reason being you take ONE side apart first. If you have any questions about how things go back together, you can walk around and take a look at the other side - which SHOULD still be together.

While @BmacIL and others surely know their stuff - it pays to remember that they are recommending brake pads and components they use on their cars, and their cars tend to get driven hard in autocross / SCCA / track etc. I'm not saying those recommendations aren't solid and from their personal experiences, I'm saying if you are honest with yourself in how you drive your car, odds are you don't need to go that far down the rabbit hole when replacing / servicing OEM brakes. Of course that's just my opinion.

Also - I'm really skeptical that at 36K miles your factory brakes are worn to the point of needing replacing, unless you are really hard on brakes or this is a trait of the PP brakes. In all my years wrenching on cars and being around others who do the same - I see plenty of people upgrade brakes - just like they do other things on their car, and that's great, but after upgrading say pads and rotors, a lot of owners tend to ignore their brakes until they start making noise or not performing well. Me personally, I flush the brake fluid in all my vehicles once a year. At the same time I also lube the caliper pins. It is not expensive, the tools required (depending how much of a tool horse you are) are not hard or pricey to acquire and it's not complicated. I'm on my second Mity-Vac in like 20 years. They cost like $35 with everything you need to bleed / flush brakes. The entire process doesn't take long at all. It normally takes me longer to find the Mity-Vac in the shop, then find the brake fluid I bought and gather everything up.

Again just my opinion.
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ChitownStang

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Thanks Ctandc72, very sound advice
 

BmacIL

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All very good points. Keep in mind that I do daily drive my car as well, and am quite sensitive to the negative effects from track-focused or track-only parts. My suggestion of the GS-1 pads is based on their performance as a street-only pad (and the occasional autocross). Stepping up beyond that creates many compromises that many would not care for on the street, in the name of performance.

I will say that when I replaced my factory pads at ~55k miles, they had a lot of meat left...at least half life still. I still replaced them as I wanted a better performing pad.
 

ShadowCS

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If you have a floor jack, just jack up each corner separately and spin that wheel by hand. You may find the source of the noise and simplify the troubleshooting. As stated earlier some light dragging sounds are normal just be checking for what matches your suspicious noise.
 
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ChitownStang

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That’s a good idea. It almost sounds like something is warped as it’s a on/off, uneven surface rub
 

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ChitownStang

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Alright guys, I did my first brake job yesterday,replaced pads
& rotors on jack stands, took 5 hours. My 40 year old ass was so soar afterward.. swinging hammers at rotors on a cold garage floor for hours, and bangin my head off wheel wells sucked but it was very satisfying to complete.
Unfortunately, the rubbing noise is still there! 8mph to stop especially. What gives, Can a bad caliper cause this?
 
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ChitownStang

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Oh, and one other thing. Before I knew it My know it all older brother started taking out the wrong bolts in the front caliper and cracked the seal enough on the center of the caliper to let a little fluid out before I stopped him and we bolted it back up. Did we mess anything up?
 

jdowen2

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Doubtful, but bleed thoroughly
 

Roadway 5.0

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Alright guys, I did my first brake job yesterday,replaced pads
& rotors on jack stands, took 5 hours. My 40 year old ass was so soar afterward.. swinging hammers at rotors on a cold garage floor for hours, and bangin my head off wheel wells sucked but it was very satisfying to complete.
Unfortunately, the rubbing noise is still there! 8mph to stop especially. What gives, Can a bad caliper cause this?
Any joint that rotates I would double check for lubrication and excessive rust. Look into your parking brake being slightly seized too.

EDIT: have you inspected the inboard side of your aftermarket wheels and tires for wear/damage? These may be rubbing your struts.
 
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ChitownStang

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Any joint that rotates I would double check for lubrication and excessive rust. Look into your parking brake being slightly seized too.

EDIT: have you inspected the inboard side of your aftermarket wheels and tires for wear/damade? These may be rubbing your struts.
Ok, I will do that next. no rubbing on wheels seen. It really sounds like it's coming from the front.
 

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ChitownStang

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Any joint that rotates I would double check for lubrication and excessive rust. Look into your parking brake being slightly seized too.

EDIT: have you inspected the inboard side of your aftermarket wheels and tires for wear/damade? These may be rubbing your struts.
There was a lot of rust/corrosion on the hubs, thats what made it so hard to take rotors off. Guess I will need to remove rotors again to get to the hubs properly?
I also watched videos of people with bad hubs and I don't have that wiggle/play in my hubs, they were solid.
 

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There was a lot of rust/corrosion on the hubs, thats what made it so hard to take rotors off. Guess I will need to remove rotors again to get to the hubs properly?
I also watched videos of people with bad hubs and I don't have that wiggle/play in my hubs, they were solid.
For sure take a wire brush to the hubs and remove any surface rust. Wipe down with WD40, reinstall the wheels, and see how it goes
 

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NightmareMoon

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Mke sure the dust shields aren’t contacting the rotor. If they are just bend them back a bit.
 
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ChitownStang

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Mke sure the dust shields aren’t contacting the rotor. If they are just bend them back a bit.
I will double check this but I don’t think it could be that since I only hear the rubbing at really slow speed and even more when I brake the last 30ft before I come to a stop
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