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Active Exhaust Fail

Rash

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My problem was the bend going into the actuator on the passenger side the wire harness was bad ..I put silicone on it problem solved ..
Did you just notice that yourself on visual inspection? Is it obvious? Where exactly did you put the silicone? I'd be worried that if I put silicone on it and it didn't solve the problem, the dealer would say that me messing with it voids the warranty.
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MustangPP1

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Has anyone had this problem fixed permanently? I pretty much get the error message every day now. I haven’t taken it in yet but plan to soon. Was wondering if anyone found the solution. My car is stock, so it has nothing to do with replacing headers or modifications.
Yes, wiring for the exhaust was cut so ford replaced muffler and wiring under warranty.
 

bigwill90

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Did you just notice that yourself on visual inspection? Is it obvious? Where exactly did you put the silicone? I'd be worried that if I put silicone on it and it didn't solve the problem, the dealer would say that me messing with it voids the warranty.
Yes I notice on a good visual inspection. I’m not telling you to use silicone just helping solve your problem..I will eventually take to ford and let them replace wire harness that comes out the actuator.
 

Rash

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Yes, wiring for the exhaust was cut so ford replaced muffler and wiring under warranty.
How was it cut? Did you have any mods that could have caused it?

NVM - just read your previous posts in this thread.
 

bigwill90

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How was it cut? Did you have any mods that could have caused it?

NVM - just read your previous posts in this thread.
Not sure how the wire got damage...Looks like mods are no mods this is problem with the way wire harness routing to the actuator.
 

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HunterStang

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I originally thought it was an issue with my headers but then after taking it to Ford for a misfire issue the dealer also notices the passenger side actuator harness was bad and they replaced it. No issues since then and i has been about 10,000 miles.
 

500PLUS

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Right I had this problem
Took 3 months to sort as rear right wiring loom burnt through
So needed new part 8 week delivery
I had mishimoto x pipe fitted
So the fitting is critical to leave at least 15mm on right hand side active valve connector
Left side connector is lower so no problem
My exhaust expanded approx 12mm after 60 miles trapped wire burnt out
Car stuck on track with x pipe for 3 months
Neighbours loved me
We refitted x pipe cutting more pipe away
Note u must leave space for expansion when hot

The U.K. owner book does not say fuse 34 is used
So wasn’t aware it existed as part of active exhaust
2 trips to Ford and they were clueless even after lap top reset quoted ÂŁ600 to fix
Idiots as was the fuse took 5 seconds to sort
Engine light that was on whole time reset it’s self after few days
Now works fine
 

Rash

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Is the damage to the wiring obvious upon inspection? I’ve gotten under there and looked and don’t see anything obvious. I’ve watched the baffles when I remote start the car - immediately after starting, the driver side baffle closes completely, while the passenger side stays open in what looks like sports setting. After a few seconds, the driver side opens fully and then reverts to what looks like a normal position. But the passenger side does not move. After that I get the exhaust mode not available message. So it’s obvious the passenger side baffle is the problem. I was kind of surprised to see the driver side close completely upon starting, even though I don’t have it in quiet mode and I don’t have quite start enabled. I’m assuming the closing and opening after starting is kind of a system check, and when the system check realizes that the passenger side isn’t working properly, you get the error message. If anyone wants to go out and check their baffles upon remote start and see what it does for comparison, I’d be curious to know.
 

RBELUN

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Thank you all for posting. I just had my first fail. Both valves on the inward side of tips are open and do close together when quiet mode is selected. I have headers and tune.

My issue was the fuse and I checked the wires and the harness on drivers side is only about 1/2" of expansion before it hits the body seam. I'm going to check the distance after the exhaust gets hot and see if the expansion on drivers side is pushing into the harness.
 

302@12psi

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I really like the active exhaust but once it gets aged I doubt I'll be spending any sort of money to maintain it.

Is there a simple way in Forscan to just disable the entire thing? I was kind of surprised Ford put the drive modes and everything tied to the active exhaust system.
 

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Is the damage to the wiring obvious upon inspection? I’ve gotten under there and looked and don’t see anything obvious. I’ve watched the baffles when I remote start the car - immediately after starting, the driver side baffle closes completely, while the passenger side stays open in what looks like sports setting. After a few seconds, the driver side opens fully and then reverts to what looks like a normal position. But the passenger side does not move. After that I get the exhaust mode not available message. So it’s obvious the passenger side baffle is the problem. I was kind of surprised to see the driver side close completely upon starting, even though I don’t have it in quiet mode and I don’t have quite start enabled. I’m assuming the closing and opening after starting is kind of a system check, and when the system check realizes that the passenger side isn’t working properly, you get the error message. If anyone wants to go out and check their baffles upon remote start and see what it does for comparison, I’d be curious to know.
Check the pigtail that connects to the actuator. It is a tight fit with a piece of metal body panel right there.
 

RBELUN

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Check the pigtail that connects to the actuator. It is a tight fit with a piece of metal body panel right there.
after a recent track day. My exhaust failed again. I took off the harness and both had been nearly sheered. Here are pictures and part numbers. I was able to fix my harness by pushing pins out and slipping over some heat shrink.

parts are $32 bucks each at TASCA auto parts. ford P/N JREZ-14A411-H

View media item 15906View media item 15905
Also added a pinch weld bumper to protect harness....its $2 and 5 minute fab and install.
image1.jpeg
 
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500PLUS

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Installing my x pipe caused same issue as the remaining gap is critical
We removed exhaust and cut more pipe away to slide whole system forward allowing space for exhaust to expand when hot
 

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Hate to add to this thread but I have an issue that pops up intermittently when I attempt to select track mode & it says exhaust mode unavailable and reverts back to normal mode. Occasionally it will work. All the other modes work fine. I can hear the valve open for track mode but then quickly revert back to normal mode. How do I trouble shoot? I have an H pipe from roush and borla s type with active exhaust. Thanks!
 

RBELUN

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Hate to add to this thread but I have an issue that pops up intermittently when I attempt to select track mode & it says exhaust mode unavailable and reverts back to normal mode. Occasionally it will work. All the other modes work fine. I can hear the valve open for track mode but then quickly revert back to normal mode. How do I trouble shoot? I have an H pipe from roush and borla s type with active exhaust. Thanks!
check your harness at the pinch weld point. Mine did the same thing until it finally popped the fuse and nothing worked.
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