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FTBR FT548 Knuckle-Toe Bearing Install/Write-Up

Rustang

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This I think is more going to be a handling consistently/predictability thing. I suppose it can help with wheel hop. Mostly I think that's the LCA's business.
Gotcha, I only said that because he noted he felt a ton of wheel hop was gone post install:cheers:
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SidewaysMike

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Red thread locker

Thank you for the responses above!

Did anyone use red thread locker on the bearing? or maybe blue? or nothing?
 

MtnBiker

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Thank you for the responses above!

Did anyone use red thread locker on the bearing? or maybe blue? or nothing?
Blue. Works as a lube for insertion and hopefully keeps things quiet.
 

Cobra Jet

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Wildcatgoal,

I guess the OP is MIA, so my question maybe you can offer some opinions as you're very tech savvy and familiar with the S550 suspension.

In your opinion, is the only difference between the (2) aftermarket knuckle to toe bearings the fact that the FTBR spherical does not have to be centered or aligned due to their proprietary design with their bearing having the ridge on it vs. non-ridged Ford Performance?

I don't really see any functional variances between the two...?

Thanks in advance for your input.
 

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wildcatgoal

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Wildcatgoal,

I guess the OP is MIA, so my question maybe you can offer some opinions as you're very tech savvy and familiar with the S550 suspension.

In your opinion, is the only difference between the (2) aftermarket knuckle to toe bearings the fact that the FTBR spherical does not have to be centered or aligned due to their proprietary design with their bearing having the ridge on it vs. non-ridged Ford Performance?

I don't really see any functional variances between the two...?

Thanks in advance for your input.
There's not going to be a functional difference. The FTBR one looks pretty and the lip is nice if you want to just stuff it in until it bottoms out and not eyeball it to center. Idiot proof. But I'd just get the cheaper one, which I suspect is the Ford unit. Steeda doesn't make their own because the Ford one is fine. The Ford bearing is the same one used already on your car elsewhere. I think I paid $55 for my Ford bearings with some discount code a while ago. I don't remember from where I bought them - probably one of the Ford dealers on here.
 

SteveW

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I'm in the process of replacing my knuckle to toe and rear control arm bushings and found a 1-1/4" rigid conduit coupler in the electrical section at Home Depot that worked perfect for getting the first toe link bushing out.

The toe link bushing sleeve is 49mm in diameter. The coupler is 48mm so the perfect size for the job.

I ended up taking the knuckle out of the car and using a 12 ton HF press to do it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-4-in-Rigid-Conduit-Coupling-64012/100181479
 

BmacIL

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I'm in the process of replacing my knuckle to toe and rear control arm bushings and found a 1-1/4" rigid conduit coupler in the electrical section at Home Depot that worked perfect for getting the first toe link bushing out.

The toe link bushing sleeve is 49mm in diameter. The coupler is 48mm so the perfect size for the job.

I ended up taking the knuckle out of the car and using a 12 ton HF press to do it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-4-in-Rigid-Conduit-Coupling-64012/100181479
Did you try a 1 1/4" socket or just the coupler? I'm looking to do this one soon with one of the rental tools.
 

wildcatgoal

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All I needed was my socket. I have a write up on this somewhere. Having a set of extra hands to align and hold together all the press tool parts makes it way easier. Frankly, if I did it again, I'd probably just use an air hammer and the socket as a pusher to jackhammer the bushing out vs. waste time setting up a press to do that.
 

SteveW

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Did you try a 1 1/4" socket or just the coupler? I'm looking to do this one soon with one of the rental tools.
Honestly, I don't remember if I tried a socket or not or why not. I remember having a helluva time trying to line up a clamp, bushing press and cup while on the car and gave up on that since a press was available to me.
 

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ckendri

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I did mine on Saturday, and my 1-1/4” socket was a bit too small to get the outer lip of the original bearing. I made a tool... 1.900” OD with a 1.625 c’bore to accept the inner portion of the bearing. Simple after that.
 

Dr. Norts

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I'm leaving this one up to my shop to install. I'll drink coffee while they have "fun"
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