Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Relak]

Did you do the coding yourself? What ODB read/write unit did you use?

FORSCAN and the MX OBDII Bluetooth plugin adapter. And yea did it myself. Pretty simple once you have the right setup and read what’s required before hand.

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[Racemaster]

Going into the ACM (audio control module) with forscan has nothing to do with a tune was loaded or not.But if the dealer flashes an update that would revert any changes you made to the settings to flatten it out.
Back to the head unit.The head unit itself is really not that bad.In fact it will run wide open without clipping the signal.Other than the fact that the voltage could be just a tad higher on the output,it is a very clean signal.
You have either a bad (open) ground on on or more of your rca's cables or the amp is picking up a ground noise from somewhere.
If you look back at my post on the installation of my amp,you will see that it is grounded to a factory ground that is located up high next to the stock amp.It is the same spot that ford uses for the factory amp and I can almost bet that the ACM and the head unit are tied in to this wire to eliminate any chance of noise.
You need to look up high and to the left of the stock amp and you will see the ground point that the harness connects to.
I would try to pull each rca out 1 at a time and see if the noise changes to try and pinpoint the issue.The next this would be to try and run a temp cable from the point I suggest to your amp and see if it calms down.
Ground loops and other problems can be a real pain to track down.But keep at it,you will find it.
Good luck

 

[Relak]

Going into the ACM (audio control module) with forscan has nothing to do with a tune was loaded or not.But if the dealer flashes an update that would revert any changes you made to the settings to flatten it out.
Back to the head unit.The head unit itself is really not that bad.In fact it will run wide open without clipping the signal.Other than the fact that the voltage could be just a tad higher on the output,it is a very clean signal.
You have either a bad (open) ground on on or more of your rca's cables or the amp is picking up a ground noise from somewhere.
If you look back at my post on the installation of my amp,you will see that it is grounded to a factory ground that is located up high next to the stock amp.It is the same spot that ford uses for the factory amp and I can almost bet that the ACM and the head unit are tied in to this wire to eliminate any chance of noise.
You need to look up high and to the left of the stock amp and you will see the ground point that the harness connects to.
I would try to pull each rca out 1 at a time and see if the noise changes to try and pinpoint the issue.The next this would be to try and run a temp cable from the point I suggest to your amp and see if it calms down.
Ground loops and other problems can be a real pain to track down.But keep at it,you will find it.
Good luck

Nope. It’s the head unit. Traced it back to the HU by running the entire setup with RCAs connected to an unconnected third-source. Static feedback wasn’t present but as soon as the RCAs were plugged back into the HU the issue came back. Even tried the same with high/low level line outs. Not to mention that the sound was present in both my GT350s as stock, just not as pronounced as with the aftermarket amps.

I’m not sure why you don’t want to believe that the HU is shit, but it’s just implausible for it to be anything else.

 

[Jrod9707]

Hey guys I'm looking to upgrade my '15 Mustang convertible w/ subwoofer to something with a little more range and punch. I have read several threads and am thinking of using the infinity ref 3.5" for the center and am not sure what to use in the doors.
Also going to drop the matching infinity 6.5" in the rear. I like a full sound in the car versus front only. I'll replace the subwoofer with the rockford punch shallow 8". Now for that I am looking for best way to tap in the factory sub amp and where to locate best remote wire. The information is scattered all over and was looking to get some feedback from some of you that have done this and can recommend a fairly budget friendly way to increase the sound quality. I wouldnt mind continuing to use the factory amp to push the speakers if its not that bad when matched with the correct speakers(is powerbass a decent option as well?).

I really appreciate some tips/pointers to make this stereo come alive!

 

[Emilbadal]

Hey guys I'm looking to upgrade my '15 Mustang convertible w/ subwoofer to something with a little more range and punch. I have read several threads and am thinking of using the infinity ref 3.5" for the center and am not sure what to use in the doors.
Also going to drop the matching infinity 6.5" in the rear. I like a full sound in the car versus front only. I'll replace the subwoofer with the rockford punch shallow 8". Now for that I am looking for best way to tap in the factory sub amp and where to locate best remote wire. The information is scattered all over and was looking to get some feedback from some of you that have done this and can recommend a fairly budget friendly way to increase the sound quality. I wouldnt mind continuing to use the factory amp to push the speakers if its not that bad when matched with the correct speakers(is powerbass a decent option as well?).

I really appreciate some tips/pointers to make this stereo come alive!

If I hadn't invested as much as I am right now in the amps and speakers, and knowing what I know now, I would definitely follow the route that you mentioned. I think you're on the right way. Replace the original speakers with Infinity speakers( Low impedance and high sensitivity) and add a stand alone subwoofer to add the bass and use the factory amp to drive the speakers. as far as the subwoofer, personally I went the spare tire subwoofer route. JBL has one, Cerwin Vega(VPAS12ST which I have) has one. As far as the signal you can grab the signal from the rear speakers run it to the high level input of the sub and grab the signal wire from the trunk as well( I believe it's a Blue-White wire).

 

[Jrod9707]

If I hadn't invested as much as I am right now in the amps and speakers, and knowing what I know now, I would definitely follow the route that you mentioned. I think you're on the right way. Replace the original speakers with Infinity speakers( Low impedance and high sensitivity) and add a stand alone subwoofer to add the bass and use the factory amp to drive the speakers. as far as the subwoofer, personally I went the spare tire subwoofer route. JBL has one, Cerwin Vega(VPAS12ST which I have) has one. As far as the signal you can grab the signal from the rear speakers run it to the high level input of the sub and grab the signal wire from the trunk as well( I believe it's a Blue-White wire).

Thanks for the letting me know I'm moving in the right direction for this install. I dont mind paying for what I get but I also don't want to go too overboard. Family stuff is more of the priority these days.
What would you recommend for the doors. Infinity components and cut the positive on the 3.5" . Use Infinity 3.5" or is there a way to open the range on the 6.5" to get full versus lower end HZ.
Thank you!

 

[Jrod9707]

*** Also is tapping into the rear speaker the way to get high level signal or is there a way to grab this from the weak subwoofer amplifier?

 

[Emilbadal]

I'd leave the front door speakers alone. I'd spend the money instead of replacing speakers in some sound deadening material to improve the midbass of the factory speakers. Any other way you'll have to drive them with amp and that's a big PITA. For me The main issue that I had with my speakers were that the rears sounded dead with no details. I'd put Infinity coaxials in the rear, and upgrade the center speaker and add the sub. There are one or two threads regarding upgrading just the subwoofer in the stock enclosure. My car is base 6 speaker version so I can't give you detailed answer on the subwoofer topic.

 

[JackImpact]

I have the 9 speaker system, so no sub. It surely lacks compared to my little done up civic.

 

[Syraeal]

I'm currently looking at running the audio control dm608 for my DSP feeding to a pair of Hertz amps - as ithe DSP takes speaker level inputs could I just run all the speaker wires straight to it, and then RCA out to Amps without needing to program anything on the ACM?

Also if I'm dropping the rear speakers would using the existing power wore to the amp to power the DSP cause any issues?

To clarify ita a gt that has the 9 speaker system from factory currently. - going to replace front speakers with Hertz kit, add a sub, and remove the rear speakers

 

[Emilbadal]

I'm currently looking at running the audio control dm608 for my DSP feeding to a pair of Hertz amps - as ithe DSP takes speaker level inputs could I just run all the speaker wires straight to it, and then RCA out to Amps without needing to program anything on the ACM?

Also if I'm dropping the rear speakers would using the existing power wore to the amp to power the DSP cause any issues?

To clarify ita a gt that has the 9 speaker system from factory currently. - going to replace front speakers with Hertz kit, add a sub, and remove the rear speakers

For the base 6speaker model, you can run the signal from only the front channels from ACM to your DSP, because in base model, the fronts are pretty much full range. have Since you have the premium 9 or 12 speakers, you need to do the programming to bypass the amp and get clean signal to your DSP from the ACM. Hopefully HextallS550 can weigh in on this, he makes a harness to convert the speaker outputs from ACM to RCAs.
As far as the power wires go, as long as you have appropriate guage wires and appropriate distribution block, you'll be fine.

 

[trkpny]

Update: I used Forscan to turn off the fake engine noise this evening and it was totally successful. It also got rid of the loud hum I was experiencing. Thank you Relak for pointing me in the right direction. One step closer.

 

[JackImpact]

Update: I used Forscan to turn off the fake engine noise this evening and it was totally successful. It also got rid of the loud hum I was experiencing. Thank you Relak for pointing me in the right direction. One step closer.

Yo what guide was that again lol.

 

[trkpny]

Yo what guide was that again lol.

I used the codes from this Google sheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...N7v6AjN_t9rWvz0npQpcBbU_u0/edit#gid=502531046
Everything else I got off of the Forscan forum and from watching Youtube videos. Is that what you mean?

 

[JackImpact]

I used the codes from this Google sheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...N7v6AjN_t9rWvz0npQpcBbU_u0/edit#gid=502531046
Everything else I got off of the Forscan forum and from watching Youtube videos. Is that what you mean?

Yes thanks

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