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Headers: How did you get the top passenger studs and nuts on?

ManBearPig

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Do you remember which passenger side studs you had to remove?
I pulled the ones that looked easiest to get to because I knew getting some of them back in with the header in place would be a nightmare. The 3 rear studs on the lower row are the ones I removed. That gave me just enough room to slide the header in place (with the other 5 studs left as-is). It was cake to get these 3 back in.
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Luce202

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You may try header bolts instead of the studs. I always use bolts as they are much more forgiving during the install.
 
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sKyZ

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UPDATE: I got all of the studs and nuts on. I ordered an E8 ratcheting wrench from Amazon earlier this week and it arrived today. It helped tremendously and I highly suggest grabbing one if you suggest doing headers yourself.

I had to give the engine mounting bracket a few wacks with a hammer to get it in to place and have it bolted in. I'm going to tighten it down tomorrow and get the rest of the vehicle together.

Thanks for all the help guys!
 
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sKyZ

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The headers are on, engine mounts on, starter is in, battery is back in, and almost done.

The only issue Iā€™m having is the exhaust.
I have BBK off road midpipes and a Steeda x-pipe. I cut about 2ā€ off the BBK midpipes where they meet the X-pipe and about an inch off the muffler side of it, but the x-pipe is still too long. I feel that if I keep cutting, Iā€™ll run in to a bend and wonā€™t be able to bolt things together.

My second issue is that the steering shaft rubs against the driver side header. I have wacked it with a hammer, but it doesnā€™t seem to be denting.

Any advice?
 

ManBearPig

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Canā€™t speak to the length of the system overall, but do you have room to shift the engine to the pass side to clear the steering linkage?
 

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sKyZ

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Canā€™t speak to the length of the system overall, but do you have room to shift the engine to the pass side to clear the steering linkage?
I just got the exhaust welded up and they heated and dented the header for the steering shaft for me too. It seems to run great now!
 
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sKyZ

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Canā€™t speak to the length of the system overall, but do you have room to shift the engine to the pass side to clear the steering linkage?
Heated it up and dented it a little. Has about 1/4" of clearance now. I got the rest of the exhaust welded up because I don't like using a bunch of clamps. Runs and sounds great now!

I'm going to drive it a bit this week, then jack it up this weekend and check everything over.
 

BiteMe2

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I'm doing the exact same headers shortly, where you able to reuse all factory studs ? Any tips greatly appreciated
 

Leosegura155

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54367051_191846565109554_218078849945042944_n.jpg


2019 GT A10 PP.

I have the header mounted, all of the bottom studs are in as well as the second to front stud on the top. I've been trying for a week (and failing) to get the top rear, second from rear, and front stud on as well as the nuts. I have removed the battery, battery tray, and battery shield (as you can see in the picture). I have also unbolted the coolant tank and moved it to the passenger side in hopes of reaching the front stud with no luck.

How can I do this?!
Okay so Iā€™m having the same issue except itā€™s just the bolt I canā€™t seem to reach on the very back passenger header top bolt. I had been getting codes of misfires and such and had no idea what it was until I was checking the headers and noticed the bolt wasnā€™t tight it was just on with a full inch gap, but I canā€™t seem to fit my hand or a tool
 

NGOT8R

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You have to use a box wrench (short stubby one) on that bolt and youā€˜ll access it (as well as all other header bolts), from the bottom side of the motor. You will need to use your fingertips to push up on the wrench to tighten the bolt. Itā€™ll be a slow process if you have an inch of bolt sticking out.
 
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Red65

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Ratcheting wrenches are 100% the way to go for header installs. Not sure i would've stayed sane doing mine without them
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