Both Rear Wheel Bearings Failure

[moffetts]

This is a widely reported and documented issue. It also seem to affect PP cars more than non PP cars, but that's a very non-scientific assessment on my part. I've replaced mine multiple times.

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[steveo1960]

This is a widely reported and documented issue. It also seem to affect PP cars more than non PP cars, but that's a very non-scientific assessment on my part. I've replaced mine multiple times.

So how long have cars had wheel bearings? It's amazing that so many basic items, wheel bearing torque, short bolts in Camaro drive shafts and other basic "car building 101" slip by... Actually it's kind of sad IMHO.. With all of the tracking, bar codes, computer scanning and literally being able to drill down to the person, supplier of component causing the issue, these things slip by... Watch any "How It's Made" show and you can see how closely things are tracked.. There should be no excuse for this kind of failure.

 

[moffetts]

I totally agree. They do all kinds of whiz bang stuff on modern cars but somehow this fundamental stuff is coming up as a problem.

 

[Deleted member 35786]

How did you find it was loose?

And since these nuts can work loose, is there a chance I could precipitate that by checking the torque? I mean if my wrench is a hair off or the factory was a little less than spec but not loosening, I would end up turning the nut a small amount and maybe setting the stage for loosening more in use?

I corrected it.. It was my drivers side rear hub. When car was on lift I grabbed the wheel at the 12 & 6 position or 9 & 3 and shook one side at a time and she was loose.. Torqued to 150ft/lbs as per spec.

 

[Deleted member 35786]

The driver's side rotor is rusted to the hub, most likely.

Should not be for he is in Arizona..

 

[GT Pony]

The wheels & tires are stock sizes, I've never tracked the car.

Running any wheel spacers? They tend to put a bit more stress on the wheel bearings.

 

[DAVECS1]

I have a thread on here. I had to do all 4 wheel bearings. Since my car has 3800 miles on it mostly all track days, I did the replacement myself with all Moog. So far everything seems fine. The Moog part does say USA and the ford part did not.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Except that as far as I can tell, the FoMoCo part is exactly the same as the aftermarket Timken part... I bought one of each and they are literally the same thing.

Th FoMoCo part has “TIMKEN” on the bearing race?

Timken is not a supplier to Ford; however Federal Mogul and ZF/TRW are on their supply list.

 

[DAVECS1]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2017-pp-front-wheel-bearing.91327/#post-2017119

 

[NoVaGT]

I got the car back, and it's driving 100% better. The bearings were allowing the rear wheels to wobble around, and now everything feels waaaay better. The car steers much better, of course. And going over bumps, the clunking is about 75%-80% gone.

Now my concern is, were there two different clunks back there, and one has been fixed? Or did the tech not get the passenger side bearing to the correct torque, so it still clunks a little bit?

Relatively common. I suspect because of improper torque on the axle nut. Before I started tracking my car regularly, I checked the torque on mine (car should be cold, metal shouldn't be hot) and both sides were far off from spec.

I'm getting different info on the torque specs. What did you torque the nut down to?

I did find my rear drivers side rear hub nut was loose when changing tires.. Torqued to spec and no issues so far.

Please also share what torque you went to.

I've replaced mine multiple times.

You've replaced your wheel bearings multiple times? What torque spec are you using?

I corrected it.. It was my drivers side rear hub. When car was on lift I grabbed the wheel at the 12 & 6 position or 9 & 3 and shook one side at a time and she was loose.. Torqued to 150ft/lbs as per spec.

The video I linked to stated 98 ft.lbs. + 45 degrees. Where did you find 150ft/lbs.?

 

[NoVaGT]

I have a thread on here. I had to do all 4 wheel bearings. Since my car has 3800 miles on it mostly all track days, I did the replacement myself with all Moog. So far everything seems fine. The Moog part does say USA and the ford part did not.

Jesus, that's depressing. Looks like I'll have to buy all the tools to do this myself, as I just don't trust the dealership techs to get the job done right. What torque specs did you use on the rear bearings?

Running any wheel spacers? They tend to put a bit more stress on the wheel bearings.

Nope. Stock size wheels & tires, no tracking, but I do have some Steeda suspension parts (see sig line).

 

[Deleted member 35786]

I got the car back, and it's driving 100% better. The bearings were allowing the rear wheels to wobble around, and now everything feels waaaay better. The car steers much better, of course. And going over bumps, the clunking is about 75%-80% gone.

Now my concern is, were there two different clunks back there, and one has been fixed? Or did the tech not get the passenger side bearing to the correct torque, so it still clunks a little bit?



I'm getting different info on the torque specs. What did you torque the nut down to?



Please also share what torque you went to.



You've replaced your wheel bearings multiple times? What torque spec are you using?



The video I linked to stated 98 ft.lbs. + 45 degrees. Where did you find 150ft/lbs.?

I stand corrected it is 98ft/lbs. I was thinking of the lug nuts, my apologies.
See at 9:42

 

[NoVaGT]

I stand corrected it is 98ft/lbs. I was thinking of the lug nuts, my apologies.
See at 9:42

Yep. I posted that video here.

It's good to see it's not hard to replace the bearings, just need to get a torque wrench and the proper size sockets.

 

[Deleted member 35786]

Yep. I posted that video here.

It's good to see it's not hard to replace the bearings, just need to get a torque wrench and the proper size sockets.

I usually go to Lowes and hit the tool section. Kobalt has some nice quality stuff. Or your local Adavanced Auto parts/Auto Zone in a pinch.

 

[NoVaGT]

I usually go to Lowes and hit the tool section. Kobalt has some nice quality stuff. Or your local Adavanced Auto parts/Auto Zone in a pinch.

I'm going to check the torque on the new bearings myself, hopefully Lowes has what I need.

I just don't trust it was done correctly.

What I'm wondering now, is are these bearings failing because they're not torqued correctly from the factory? Or are they just crap?

Failing at (I'll guess) 18K miles is a joke.

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