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Both Rear Wheel Bearings Failure

NoVaGT

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The wheels & tires are stock sizes, I've never tracked the car. It does have some Steeda suspension stuff (sig line), but the clunking from the rear-end (that I'm assuming is from the bearings) pre-dates the suspension up-grades. They're being replaced under warranty.

Why on earth would both my rear wheel bearings fail?

Is this a known issue?
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Relatively common. I suspect because of improper torque on the axle nut. Before I started tracking my car regularly, I checked the torque on mine (car should be cold, metal shouldn't be hot) and both sides were far off from spec.
 
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Relatively common. I suspect because of improper torque on the axle nut. Before I started tracking my car regularly, I checked the torque on mine (car should be cold, metal shouldn't be hot) and both sides were far off from spec.
I just watched a video from CJ Pony Parts, and evidently it is rather common. It's sad to think they can't get the torque correct from the factory. My car not being lowered and having standard wheels, this really ticks me off.

FWIW, the dealership hasn't mentioned a word about my suspension mods.

But, maybe they haven't actually done the work yet, haven't seen them yet. Fingers crossed.
 

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Junk suppliers and no QC... period.

There’s no reason wheel bearings should not last up to 50-80k before even needing attention, especially on any 2015-2017 model year.

Ford takes the lowest bid on parts suppliers, quality is no longer “Job 1”.

I’ve read in here where even after a warranty replacement folks have had to have a 2nd set of bearing replaced for premature failure.

If you want no failure, quality bearings that have longevity - Timken is where it’s at...and those won’t come from Ford, it would be out of pocket expense.
 
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Junk suppliers and no QC... period.

There’s no reason wheel bearings should not last up to 50-80k before even needing attention, especially on any 2015-2017 model year.

Ford takes the lowest bid on parts suppliers, quality is no longer “Job 1”.

I’ve read in here where even after a warranty replacement folks have had to have a 2nd set of bearing replaced for premature failure.

If you want no failure, quality bearings that have longevity - Timken is where it’s at...and those won’t come from Ford, it would be out of pocket expense.
Thanks for the suggestion. If I end up replacing them myself in the future, I'll look into Timken.

I'd guess these bearings failed at about 18K miles, because I've been chasing the clunking noise for about a year now.

That's assuming the clunking noise was the bearings.
 

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Except that as far as I can tell, the FoMoCo part is exactly the same as the aftermarket Timken part... I bought one of each and they are literally the same thing.
 
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Except that as far as I can tell, the FoMoCo part is exactly the same as the aftermarket Timken part... I bought one of each and they are literally the same thing.
Are there any stampings that would show they're exactly the same part?
 
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%&$# Have mine on jack stands so just checked. Diver side: tight. Passenger side:

 

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%&$# Have mine on jack stands so just checked. Diver side: tight. Passenger side:

That looks like just the rotor wobbling around on the hub. Put the wheel all the way back on, lug-nuts tightened, then see if the whole wheel/tire assembly does that.
 

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That looks like just the rotor wobbling around on the hub. Put the wheel all the way back on, lug-nuts tightened, then see if the whole wheel/tire assembly does that.
I'll do that when I'm done with what I took the wheels off for. Hope that's all it is. I wonder why the driver side doesn't do that?
 
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I'll do that. Hope that's all it is. I wonder why the driver side doesn't do that?
The driver's side rotor is rusted to the hub, most likely.
 

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I did find my rear drivers side rear hub nut was loose when changing tires.. Torqued to spec and no issues so far.
 
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HoosierDaddy

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I did find my rear drivers side center hub nut was loose when changing tires.. Torqued to spec and no issues so far.
How did you find it was loose?

And since these nuts can work loose, is there a chance I could precipitate that by checking the torque? I mean if my wrench is a hair off or the factory was a little less than spec but not loosening, I would end up turning the nut a small amount and maybe setting the stage for loosening more in use?
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