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Antigravity Batteries

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HI Scott,
While you're here... do you know if anyone, from the Focus RS community, has had any issues with the RE-START Technology? I have an RS as well as the GT350, but I don't frequent the RS forums all that often and searches on the topic don't reveal all that much.

oh, if it helps... I just measured the height of the battery box from bottom to the top of the lid and it's just about 7 1/4 inches.
I don't go on the RS forums actually... actually I don't do much but the Porsche and a few other forums, but this year we are going to go broader on the forums. We have not even pushed on the Focus RS at all, but what I can say is that we have had 2 persons that tried the ATX20 that we specifically sent to them, and one said it shut down and then they did some tweaks to the system and it worked. But we don't like "tweaks" because we don't want anybody to have to mess around just to get the battery to work. So we are not recommending the ATX 20 or the ATX30 ORIGINAL Versions, but when we have the NEW HD Version those will be fine.

But both those guys just went back to the YTX20 and all was fine.... So that same system is in all the FORDS apparently...beacase we did see a similar reaction in the Focus. So we just tell people with Fords to Stay away from the current ATX 20/30 RE-STARTS unfortunately for now. We don't want to mislead anyone on this. The YTX12-24 and the YTX20 are the models we recommend for use now... but I am just afraid of people accidentally over-discharging those.... because they don't have the protections and it will damage them. So we are working very hard to get the testing and production done on the newer ATX20 and ATX30 HDs. WE understand they are desirable and a better price point for some persons compared to the NEW- RE-STARTS Auto Batteries I mention above.
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Sagittaria,

Any updates on your experiments, particularly if you’ve tried battery type 5?

I just put in the YTX12-24 (and Morris Engineering mount) and reset the battery monitoring system (but left it enabled).

So far so good. I always connect an OptiMate TM-271 charger when it’s in the garage.

Brian
 

Antigravity Batteries

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Sagittaria,

Any updates on your experiments, particularly if you’ve tried battery type 5?

I just put in the YTX12-24 (and Morris Engineering mount) and reset the battery monitoring system (but left it enabled).

So far so good. I always connect an OptiMate TM-271 charger when it’s in the garage.

Brian
Well we had 40 pieces Air shipped in of the NEW batteries... we sold out of those and not problems... BUT we didnt' track which people bought the battery so I'm not sure if any Mustang guys did. But our container lands this week so we will have full stock again later this week and I will then come on hear and ask for a Tester and see if Demonic is out of winter and driving again.

But the only issue with the H5/Group47 variant, as compared to the Group 96r/Group67 that I have not nailed down is the Height difference and IF that would be acceptable fitment for the Battery box in the GT350s or if lid won't fit, or is close. So we have to figure that out. Some won't care others will. But to make a tooling for a Case that is 3/4" shorter is something I have to check on the demand for.

You should be fine the they YTX12-24... the issue is, it just a very low Amp Hour battery compared to a stock battery.... so we ask people to understand this and take care of the battery since it can over-discharge if you don't watch it. But most who go that route, will take care of it especially if they realize it so small and understand why they bought it, and know to take car of it or disconnect it if they are not driving often enough to keep it charged.

Also we finished our Testing the new ATX30/20 HD models so those will go into production and finish in a few months. They wil have higher capacity and NO RE-START but all the other protections.
 

icormba

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Follow up to my install... I had the ATX-20 Non-restart in my GT350R for about 2 days without starting. 2 days later... started up just fine. Then, I bought the Anti-Gravity trickle charger for Lithium Batteries (the cheaper $60 one) and had it connected to the battery for about a week in a half, due to rain and not wanting my R to melt in said rain ;)

Sun came out today, so I decided to drive the R into work. Car started up perfectly. Monitored the voltage on the way into work and it was at a steady 14.2v.

on a side note... something to be said about these small batteries and how EASY it is to install & re-install. I was doing a lot of battery tray fitting and re-fitting when I first got the battery and I got de-install & install down to less than 5 minutes!
 

Jay-rod427

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@Antigravity Batteries ijust put an h5 in my gt a few days ago. Wanted an agm batt and no one makes one in 96r. Fits great, just can’t use the factory cover, it will stick up a little and retainers won’t go in. But I’ve never ran the cover anyway.
 

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@Antigravity Batteries ijust put an h5 in my gt a few days ago. Wanted an agm batt and no one makes one in 96r. Fits great, just can’t use the factory cover, it will stick up a little and retainers won’t go in. But I’ve never ran the cover anyway.
Yes I'm hopeful of the new H5. Scott's sending me an H5 battery to test in the GT350 since the GT350's had some compatibility issues that the GT charging systems didn't always suffer from. I'll run the Forscan data logging for the H5 and see if the revised ReStart system is compatible with the GT350 system and do a write-up.
 

Sagittaria

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This is great work. Please report back how it works out
Sagittaria,

Any updates on your experiments, particularly if you’ve tried battery type 5?

I just put in the YTX12-24 (and Morris Engineering mount) and reset the battery monitoring system (but left it enabled).

So far so good. I always connect an OptiMate TM-271 charger when it’s in the garage.

Brian
Sorry guys. I completely neglected that I lived in the tundra (Minnesota). I'll have the car out hopefully in a couple weeks to test.

Otherwise it's been sitting on an Optimate TM-471. I also followed Demonic's advice and simply installed it with a couple of long zip ties around the wedge. Looks great. I'll take a picture when I can.
 

Sagittaria

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To follow up Demonic's suspected lower state of charge with the lithium batteries on the GT350s with the default smart charging lead acid battery profile, been finally driving the car with the YTX20 and recorded voltage three times on three separate days with the following parameters:
1. Waited 4-5 hrs after driving for the battery to self-balance
2. Approximately 45 degrees
3. Approximately 20 minutes of highway driving before voltage taken (my commute to work)
4. Taken with a Fluke 117 multi meter.

According to the Antigravity website:
After a few hours it will self-balance to the 13.3-7 range which is its normal state of charge
I recorded voltages of 13.25, 13.24, and 13.3.
IMG_20190319_192456.jpg


According to Optimates Lithium State of Charge Tester:
optimate-ts127-battery-tester-pocketsize.jpg

This is approximately 60-70% charge.

I will do some thinking before I give the Ford GT Lithium Battery Profile a whirl... probably won't hurt anything to run the battery at 60-70%. Plenty of power to turn the car over with plenty to spare as multiple people have reported.
 

Sagittaria

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Otherwise it's been sitting on an Optimate TM-471. I also followed Demonic's advice and simply installed it with a couple of long zip ties around the wedge. Looks great. I'll take a picture when I can.
If anyone is curious: here is the zip tie method:
IMG_20190319_192506.jpg
 
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The new Antigravity H5 battery is arriving in the mail tomorrow for me to put through the paces.

And yes, that's exactly how I had my ATX20 mounted. Although I mentioned the lower state of charge previously, the lithium batteries charge more efficiently than the lead acid ones so the short intervals in which the car charges at less than 13V doesn't appear to matter since they charge so quickly once the car goes above 13V again. Sagittaria did you find which battery profile hex code in Forscan is for the Ford GT lithium battery? If so I'll try that on the H5 when it arrives. I tried to lookup as many hex code profiles as I could but wasn't able to find the Ford GT lithium one.
 
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Sagittaria

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Although I mentioned the lower state of charge previously, the lithium batteries charge more efficiently than the lead acid ones so the short intervals in which the car runs at less than 13V doesn't appear to matter since they charge so quickly once the car goes above 13V again. Sagittaria did you find which battery profile hex code in Forscan is for the Ford GT lithium battery? If so I'll try that on the H5 when it arrives. I tried to lookup as many hex code profiles as I could but wasn't able to find the Ford GT lithium one.
Oh nice! Didn't even think about how quickly it charges. But yup it's:
726-04-01 0502 0000

I pulled it from Jay Leno's GT VIN. My long winded write-up is here:
Just ordered Antigravity ATX-30 Lithium Battery

If it helps in your testing, my default smart charging battery profile was
726-04-01 1202 0000

And some identified battery codes from the F150 forum:
confirmed-battery-types-jpg.jpg


But thanks Demonic! Would love to hear the results of your testing.
 
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Demonic

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Hah thanks. I had missed your post mentioning it. Now I can't help wondering if the actual Ford GT battery is a legit option too...

The table you posted from the F150 forum was the one I had found also and was referencing. My car stock was using the 0702 battery profile, and I didn't change it since the other profiles were for larger batteries anyway so I didn't see any benefit in changing it at the time.
 

Antigravity Batteries

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To follow up Demonic's suspected lower state of charge with the lithium batteries on the GT350s with the default smart charging lead acid battery profile, been finally driving the car with the YTX20 and recorded voltage three times on three separate days with the following parameters:
1. Waited 4-5 hrs after driving for the battery to self-balance
2. Approximately 45 degrees
3. Approximately 20 minutes of highway driving before voltage taken (my commute to work)
4. Taken with a Fluke 117 multi meter.

According to the Antigravity website:


I recorded voltages of 13.25, 13.24, and 13.3.
IMG_20190319_192456.jpg


According to Optimates Lithium State of Charge Tester:
optimate-ts127-battery-tester-pocketsize.jpg

This is approximately 60-70% charge.

I will do some thinking before I give the Ford GT Lithium Battery Profile a whirl... probably won't hurt anything to run the battery at 60-70%. Plenty of power to turn the car over with plenty to spare as multiple people have reported.

So we are clear...

A battery will never sit at 100% charge but for the moments that it is taken off the charger right after a charge, or after a drive in the Car.... I don't consider the Optimate accurate in the sense that 13.2 is NOT a 60% charge level. Its actually considered about 70%... but that is also not so accurate when you are considering that is the resting voltage... so to me that is in a good state of charge at 13.2v no matter what qualifier or percentage you use. If you at 13.2 your golden...

For example the Lithium Battery will always wind it way down to about 13.2 v sometimes within hours sometime overnight or a day or so after a full charge of driving... But when resting after sitting it will always go down to the 13.2 range... That is its nominal resting voltage. But after driving you will see it, depending on charging system, be from 14.8 or 14.4... then after you stop the car it will float down to the 13.2~13.3.... and within that you may see it hover at 13.7.... but just know 13.2 is where is will hang out most all the time after a few days. Going into 13.1 and lower is starting a mild discharge... if its at 12.8 that pretty discharged and it should be charged for sure.

I don't like seeing them go below 13.0 because that is where a bit of starting performance and in chilly weather can effect them.... but this does depend on how big the battery is. A 30Ah battery sitting at 13.0 will still rip start a car.... a 15Ah battery like the YTX12-24... has half the amp hours and power than a 30Ah so it can struggle in colder weather.
 

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Has the zip tie method passed muster at the track????
 

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Hah thanks. I had missed your post mentioning it. Now I can't help wondering if the actual Ford GT battery is a legit option too...
Yup! I thought the same thing. I can't find much info on it especially considering the price. Bet it's not near 5lbs however.

So we are clear...

A battery will never sit at 100% charge but for the moments that it is taken off the charger right after a charge, or after a drive in the Car.... I don't consider the Optimate accurate in the sense that 13.2 is NOT a 60% charge level. Its actually considered about 70%... but that is also not so accurate when you are considering that is the resting voltage... so to me that is in a good state of charge at 13.2v no matter what qualifier or percentage you use. If you at 13.2 your golden...
Is there any solid method of measuring state of charge? Short of a coulomb counter which is what I suspect is employed on these cars?

Has the zip tie method passed muster at the track????
Street car here unfortunately.
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